I agree. My only problems have been caused by user error and light seals leaking. Learn the drill and put a strip of black masking tape over the dark slide opening and all will be well.
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I agree. My only problems have been caused by user error and light seals leaking. Learn the drill and put a strip of black masking tape over the dark slide opening and all will be well.
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- Jul 31, 2006
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Yes, that's what I meant.
Well do some research before laying out any money. I suggest Ernst Wilding's authoritative book on all things Hasselblad (pre-digital). It's considered the "go-to book" It covers models, all lenses, backs, etc. Study it and then you'll have a good starting point.
There is a collection of reference material at Hasselblad Historical www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HS/HSTable.aspx
Suggesting a "duct tape" way of working with Hasselblad does not bode well for the brand, even if the brand is not all roses either.
On another hand, changing light seals on Hasselblad back is not that hard.
I would never use "duct tape," which would be totally unnecessary, over the top and inappropriate. I suggested "black masking tape," a light weight paper tape easy on, easy off. I note also that even Ansel had light leaks from his Hasselblad backs, including the negative of one of his most famous pictures, Monolith Half Dome. Somehow I would have thought all his gear would be perfect.
If you like to do close-ups, look into the medium format cameras with bellows that lend themselves naturally to this kind of thing: The Rollei SL 66, THe Mamiya RB and RZ 67, the Fuji something-or-other 680 and one of the Bronicas as well I think.
All Hasselblad backs will leak light eventually. The light seal is made by foam expanding and pressing a strip of plastic against felt. The felt eventually rubs down and the foam eventually loses its resilience. Putting a piece of tape over the slot isn't a hack (or "duct-tape" (i.e., Mickey Mouse) solution), it's practical.
The light seals in the Hasselblad film backs are easy to replace and are inexpensive.
I've done it a few times. None of the kits I bought came with a strip of felt - waste of time if you don't replace that.
Anyway, the point of the tape is to never get light leaks through that slide opening. The light seal will fail at some point - who knows when. Is it better to prevent the light leaks or wait for them to happen, then replace the seals?
Kidding right ? Hasselblad taped up to keep light out ? Is this in Hasselblad manual somewhere or in their advertising ? I don't remember Cindy Crawford ever showing tape in Hasselblad adds. It is a hack, no matter how one wants to slice it. Change seals as needed and keep a roll pod tape in the bag if you are so unsure about condition of your gear.
No. Not at all. If you know when the light seal will fail, you must be psychic.
Let's put it this way: is it possible to regret putting tape over the opening? It sure is possible to regret not doing it.
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I now use tape on the top release of my 907x 50c when I'm shooting the 50c back on my 500c/m. I had twice very inadvertently pushed the button and a very expensive digital back fell. Miraculously, not hurt either time. When shooting the 50c back with the 907x, I use a cage that keeps the button protected, but it doesn't fit on the back of the 500 c/m
I know I'm doing something unmentionably horrible here: talking digital in our film board. But my point is that sometimes we just do need masking tape...and that's okay!
I know I'm doing something unmentionably horrible here: talking digital in our film board. But my point is that sometimes we just do need masking tape...and that's okay!
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Taping up the dark slide opening? Really? Might as well putting duct tape over ones mouth!
Which is better, duct tape and keep on using the back or no duct tape and not using the back? Pretty simple decision I think. It's a little like patching a tire or driving until the rim is the size of saucer. Besides, we're not talking permanent fix with duct tape or are we?
I have used electrical tape on a beat-up Nikkormat and Canonet GIII when I knew the foam light seal had decayed. No biggie.
I’m missing out, I guess. In 30ish years of working with Hasselblads, I’ve had one* back with a failed seal, and have never experienced the dreaded jamb.
* two if I count the non-auto back I bought in an antique shop for 10 USD a couple of weeks ago. It had failed seal gunk smeared on the slide, so no surprises there. I just need to find the second seal I bought from Hasselblad back when the first one failed.
* two if I count the non-auto back I bought in an antique shop for 10 USD a couple of weeks ago. It had failed seal gunk smeared on the slide, so no surprises there. I just need to find the second seal I bought from Hasselblad back when the first one failed.
I should have mentioned that the duct tape should be sealed around the edges and then coated with Super Glue.
You're missing the point. If you know the seal is fine, don't tape it. Pretty simple, right? But if there's any question (and with a potentially 65-year-old back, there is always a question), put a strip of tape.
But maybe you prefer light leaks on your photos.
I have 5 back (I think) and all had failed light seals when I got them, so I was unlucky. The foam in the strip turns to dust after a while. Sometimes, the strip splits at the seam. The seals were meant to be regularly replaced.
Oh no, not super glue! That's just plain nasty.
My Hasselblad 500c and back were built in 1968. It's the older windowed 12 back and it's never had its seals replaced. Some of the used A12 backs I've bought have had to replace seals. When I shot weddings it always with A12 or 220 backs. Now, for my own slow style shooting I actually prefer the older 12 backs.
When I buy a film back I take it to Samys Camera and have their Hasselblad repair man check them out. He replaces light seals, frame spacing, ... . So far it have never costs much be back.
You are very lucky to have a place to take your equipment to. Many folks here have no choice but to send it "snail mail" to Timbuktu and hope it gets there and back. When I was dealing in the camera trade I sent a very nice Leica M3 double stroke out for repair/tuneup and that was the last time I saw that camera. Took me many sales to recover from that loss.
That unfortunately reflects on the state of the photo industry.
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