I've been making gelatin silver prints for a few years but have not made toning a part of my workflow - mostly because I understand that Selenium toner is pretty nasty stuff.
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I am referring to liquid form, although dried spills can apparently produce toxic airborne dust. I used the term 'nasty' based on things I've read about it's toxicity when inhaled or absorbed through the skin. Maybe these things were exaggerated.I presume you are talking about selenium toner in liquid form, not powder form, if so, what do you mean by "pretty nasty stuff"?
First, toning is part of a serious workflow but, direct selenium toning is mostly done for aesthetic and not for permanence reasons.direct sulphide toning is the far better choice for permanence. The galleries I work with don't require a permanence guarantee but customers expect it. I will replace any print for the original buyer, which faded due to my fault.I've been making gelatin silver prints for a few years but have not made toning a part of my workflow - mostly because I understand that Selenium toner is pretty nasty stuff.
I have no interest in toning for color but I do wonder what I'm giving up in terms of print permanence by not toning. I have read lots about the theoretical benefits to permanence of selenium toning but I wonder how that translates into real world print longevity. I'm not selling my prints at the moment so the lack of permanence would only impact the prints I've made for myself, but I am still curious about this.
I also wonder if there is any sort of permanence guarantee made by galleries when they sell a print (eg. Will last for x years under "normal" conditions). Do they require the artists they represent to follow a specific workflow in order to ensure a certain level of permanence? I wonder how many people buying prints take such things into consideration.
This is an excellent summary. Very well said. Not so much sulfur gases in the air as in the 20th century. If you live next to a volcano, move, you can eat the Brazil nuts on the way.The contribution to print permanence achieved through selenium toning is directly proportional to how complete the toning is. Most of us tone just enough to get a slight change in image tone. This also means a slight bit of protection added. There are still lots of silver molecules in the print not bound with selenium, and therefore, still "vulnerable."
A print toned to completion is usually too red/brown for most tastes. Some papers will go completely fire-engine red if toned to completion. Such a print would be well-protected, but not very desirable. Other papers exhibit little change in the toner, which means that no toning, and hence, no protection, is happening.
It is worth noting that the entire brouhaha about selenium toning and permanence comes from a study of microfilm, which was toned to completion in selenium. This, indeed, protected the film. Extrapolating these findings to prints resulted in a lot of speculative misinformation about how even a bit of selenium toning would provide "archival protection." More recent research has debunked that to a large extent; the degree of protection is dependent on the degree of toning.
So, go ahead and tone, but do it for aesthetic reasons, not to provide protections for your prints. If you want your prints to last, use two-bath fixing, don't exceed fixer capacity, use a wash aid, and wash your prints well.
A couple notes on selenium toning. Firstly, when used properly, it is not very "nasty" at all. If you buy liquid concentrate, e.g., Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner, and mix your working solution from that, risks of inhaling selenium powder are minimal.
Use print tongs or nitrile gloves to avoid skin contact, but don't freak out if you get some on your hands or even have to dip your hands in the toner working solution to fish out a print stuck to the bottom from time to time. Just wash your hands immediately after contact. Remember that Ansel Adams and his whole generation of photographers manipulated prints in toner with their bare hands; they had a lot of exposure and we don't hear of many cases of selenium-related diseases among those photographers. Yes, we know better now, so minimize contact.
Clean up spills and wash trays and vessels well and you should have no problems. If you're sloppy, you'll see where you've missed cleaning up, since selenium toner dries to red blotches on surfaces, which can be cleaned up later if you catch them soon enough. Selenium will stain trays and sinks; cleaning up can prevent the stains, but the stains themselves after cleaning are non-toxic. Prints toned in selenium are not toxic either.
If you feel you need to limit your exposure to selenium, avoiding Brazil nuts would be your first choice. Not mixing toner concentrate from scratch would be your second (I don't, I just buy the liquid concentrate). Not toning prints in selenium is way down the list.
My issue with the way some use selenium toner is that it is environmentally unsound and wasteful. Selenium toner working solutions can be filter and replenished and reused almost indefinitely. I've written enough about that here and over at the LF forum that a simple search on my name and "selenium" should turn up lots of relevant information should you be interested. Short version: use your toner until toning times get too long, then add a bit of concentrate to bring the activity back to where you like. Filter the toner with coffee filters or lab filter paper before and after each use. An advantage of this method is that the unpleasant ammonia odor disappears almost entirely with a seasoned toning solution.
Best,
Doremus
Really informative response, thanks so much.The contribution to print permanence achieved through selenium toning is directly proportional to how complete the toning is. Most of us tone just enough to get a slight change in image tone. This also means a slight bit of protection added. There are still lots of silver molecules in the print not bound with selenium, and therefore, still "vulnerable."
A print toned to completion is usually too red/brown for most tastes. Some papers will go completely fire-engine red if toned to completion. Such a print would be well-protected, but not very desirable. Other papers exhibit little change in the toner, which means that no toning, and hence, no protection, is happening.
It is worth noting that the entire brouhaha about selenium toning and permanence comes from a study of microfilm, which was toned to completion in selenium. This, indeed, protected the film. Extrapolating these findings to prints resulted in a lot of speculative misinformation about how even a bit of selenium toning would provide "archival protection." More recent research has debunked that to a large extent; the degree of protection is dependent on the degree of toning.
So, go ahead and tone, but do it for aesthetic reasons, not to provide protections for your prints. If you want your prints to last, use two-bath fixing, don't exceed fixer capacity, use a wash aid, and wash your prints well.
A couple notes on selenium toning. Firstly, when used properly, it is not very "nasty" at all. If you buy liquid concentrate, e.g., Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner, and mix your working solution from that, risks of inhaling selenium powder are minimal.
Use print tongs or nitrile gloves to avoid skin contact, but don't freak out if you get some on your hands or even have to dip your hands in the toner working solution to fish out a print stuck to the bottom from time to time. Just wash your hands immediately after contact. Remember that Ansel Adams and his whole generation of photographers manipulated prints in toner with their bare hands; they had a lot of exposure and we don't hear of many cases of selenium-related diseases among those photographers. Yes, we know better now, so minimize contact.
Clean up spills and wash trays and vessels well and you should have no problems. If you're sloppy, you'll see where you've missed cleaning up, since selenium toner dries to red blotches on surfaces, which can be cleaned up later if you catch them soon enough. Selenium will stain trays and sinks; cleaning up can prevent the stains, but the stains themselves after cleaning are non-toxic. Prints toned in selenium are not toxic either.
If you feel you need to limit your exposure to selenium, avoiding Brazil nuts would be your first choice. Not mixing toner concentrate from scratch would be your second (I don't, I just buy the liquid concentrate). Not toning prints in selenium is way down the list.
My issue with the way some use selenium toner is that it is environmentally unsound and wasteful. Selenium toner working solutions can be filter and replenished and reused almost indefinitely. I've written enough about that here and over at the LF forum that a simple search on my name and "selenium" should turn up lots of relevant information should you be interested. Short version: use your toner until toning times get too long, then add a bit of concentrate to bring the activity back to where you like. Filter the toner with coffee filters or lab filter paper before and after each use. An advantage of this method is that the unpleasant ammonia odor disappears almost entirely with a seasoned toning solution.
Best,
Doremus
Selenium is a heavy metal so when it is exhausted empty it in a 5 gallon pail and let the water evaporate the metal will stay behind.
Exactly, and this is also why slight selenium toning only gives slight added protection: only the silver that is bound to selenium into silver selenide is protected from potential degradation later on. It's the same principle as sulfur toning, yielding silver sulfide.Selenium is NOT a heavy metal. It is chemically similar to sulfur, also not a metal. It likes to form complexes with metals.
I have selenium toned prints since the early 1990's and always for the colour change and until (what I think is) completion.
That's interesting. Maybe it also depends on the type of paper used? Some papers don't seem do change much, if at all, in selenium. Other papers get an eggplant colour within a minute or two. And I remember that a Forte paper got deep brown very quickly.It takes quite some time to selenium tone to completion - if you've ever tried things like China bleaching, you'll find 20 minutes in fairly strong selenium still isn't enough!
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