Yes, I remember that. I might have even been in on the conversation if I remember right. Times are different now and like you say, things have changed (new company). Also, why have Delta 100 if you have one of the best 100 speed films already, FP4+. So, if you have two great 100 speed films then why not two great 400 speed films to compete or beat Kodak? Well, I can dream can't I????
Ilford Delta 100 compared with Kodak TMax 100
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Both are gorgeous films, but I found Delta 100 to be more forgiving when it comes to exposure and development. This means fewer losses when shooting 35mm film with AE cameras.
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The most recent version of the ongoing madness states that UK goods will not have tariffs imposed on them. EU per se, yes. But who knows how all kinds of necessary manufacturing supplies and chemicals are going to become collateral damage in the ensuing melee.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed in terms of Ilford. I depend on them for printing paper, which is already approaching unaffordable. I hope this latest tsunami round of "whatever" isn't the straw which will break the camel's back.
Delta 400 isn't just a faster version of D100; it has an even more pronounced toe, much like D3200, for sake of low light shooting. By comparison, FP4 has a relatively short toe, and then a rather long straight line, though not as short a toe as TMax films. Each of these respective films have their own personality. But in no manner could D400 ever realistically "compete" with either TMY400 or even HP5. Too different.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed in terms of Ilford. I depend on them for printing paper, which is already approaching unaffordable. I hope this latest tsunami round of "whatever" isn't the straw which will break the camel's back.
Delta 400 isn't just a faster version of D100; it has an even more pronounced toe, much like D3200, for sake of low light shooting. By comparison, FP4 has a relatively short toe, and then a rather long straight line, though not as short a toe as TMax films. Each of these respective films have their own personality. But in no manner could D400 ever realistically "compete" with either TMY400 or even HP5. Too different.
Andrew O'Neill
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And Delta 400 has more red sensitivity than Delta 100, and TMY for that matter, placing it in a different category.
I bet you’ll love Delta100. My experience with it is minimal but I found that with even my rather amateurish metering at iso80 (Ilfosol 3) it was a fine film and easy to use.
Post in thread 'Tabular: terrific or terrible? Your opinions, please.'
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...ible-your-opinions-please.196662/post-2636103
The Delta films are pretty expensive presently in these parts compared to TMax films so for now I’m sticking with Kodak but you’re not sacrificing quality using Delta films. For grandpa-grain film Hp5 and Tri-X are close enough in price that I opt for Ilford.
By comparison... the U.S. Cdn exchange rate is Cdn $1.45 /US $1...... and add since yesterday the 25% reciprocal tariffs....which makes the Ilford UK product the film of choice in Canada.... which makes a roll of 120 in $8.99 USD....
I'm looking at what to use riding out the trade war.....
warden,
I recently visited my granddaughter who is a nurse at the Children's Hospital and lives in Manayunk. I feel your pain, since I found everything there a little higher priced than what I was used to. Still, I can't believe any Kodak B&W film could be cheaper than Ilford. Not saying it's not true, but I have just been all over the sites that sell film and I'm amazed at the difference in Kodak and Ilford B&W film prices. I have found no place where Kodak is even close to Ilfords lower prices. As for Delta 100 vs TMAX 100? I could easily use either one just fine. Which one do I prefer? Delta 100 because it's more cost effective for me.
Yes, that was the very first thing that surprised me when I tried my first 120 roll of Delta 400. I could tell right away it wasn't just a faster, grainer version of Delta 100. Kind of reminded me more of a faster, grainer version of Fuji Acros in the way it render some sky scenes. Not bad, but different.
Tariffs are looney. Ilford has perfectly good alternatives to Kodak offerings.
I live about a mile from Manayunk and if your granddaughter is at CHoP she’s alright by me.
I usually use B&H for their free shipping and quick delivery as Philly is a short hop from their warehouse. Currently 35mm Delta100 is about $15/roll and Tmax100 is $11 at least on my browser. But who’s to say what tomorrow brings? Thankfully they’re both great films.
I totally get it. I hope this trade war is as brief as it is stupid. I hate it.
I live about a mile from Manayunk and if your granddaughter is at CHoP she’s alright by me.
I usually use B&H for their free shipping and quick delivery as Philly is a short hop from their warehouse. Currently 35mm Delta100 is about $15/roll and Tmax100 is $11 at least on my browser. But who’s to say what tomorrow brings? Thankfully they’re both great films.
By comparison, currently in Western Canada Ilford 35mm is about $1USD more expensive than TMax..... but as things are looking...Ilford will have a 25% competitive advantage..... & since they are the major manufacturer of enlarging paper, I have no problem putting my film $$ in their pocket.
Need to meet offshore at midnight, I'll bring film you guys bring plywood. 
FPP has both Tmax 100 & Delta 100 for $11
Need to meet offshore at midnight, I'll bring film you guys bring plywood.
Perfect!
That’s odd, you’d think the larger retailer (B&H) would match that pricing. You have to pay for shipping at FPP but still…
I was more relating to the cost of sheet film. Still, $4.00 difference between Delta 100 35mm and TMAX 100 sounds crazy when compared to the other way around in the sheet film department.I live about a mile from Manayunk and if your granddaughter is at CHoP she’s alright by me.
I usually use B&H for their free shipping and quick delivery as Philly is a short hop from their warehouse. Currently 35mm Delta100 is about $15/roll and Tmax100 is $11 at least on my browser. But who’s to say what tomorrow brings? Thankfully they’re both great films.
My granddaughter is originally from Grand Rapids, Michigan. Her dream was to work there and she made it. She was one of the nurses who took care of the recently separated Siamese twins at the hospital. She loves every minute of it. Yes, and good for her! Her granny and I are very proud.
I perfer FPP when buying certain stuff cuz they give you the option to use USPS. Ive gotten stuff from B&H, but dont really like to cuz your pretty much stuck with Fedex (same with Adorama & them just using UPS), cuz where I live Ive had alooot of issues with Fedex/UPS just driving by not delivering a package saying "sorry, we couldnt get in"
I love FP4+ in medium & LF (& if reduced to one film overall FP4 would be it), but since Agfapan 25 went away, the 100 ISO T grain films show smoother tonality in 35mm.
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I can’t offer a comparison because I never achieved a single photo I liked with TMax films, and gave up trying. Also, I only do 35mm. But FWIW, FP4+ is the film I love most, but Delta 100 is almost equal top for me: really crisp and clean, with a very likeable tonality and very fine grain. My Delta 100 negatives appear thin and need short exposure times in the enlarger, but print beautifully on normal grades. And like all Ilford films, the negatives lie really flat, which helps both enlarging and scanning.
That's interesting, because B&H shipments get shipped to Canada via UPS....& deliveries are very fast. The only B&H issues have been with their poor packing practices...
Delivery is fast, but all the stuff I've ordered from B&H — the latest was last week — arrived by FedEX.
As for packing, some of these boxes are overkill.
On the packing note, I've received many B&H shipments damaged. A gallon of liquid fixer rattling around a box w 25 sheet envelopes of FB paper. Several shipments of matt board arrived with no cardboard corners on the package of 25 sheets of 16x20" matt board ....corners all damaged from rattling around a bigger box w a couple of small air bags thrown on top.
Yep, their packaging is a joke but it is “free”! They put a gallon of fixer in a huge box with one little air bag is the norm for them. Surprisingly I’ve never had one damaged and I know better than to order anything else that same day so it won’t end up getting bashed b6 the gallon jug rolling around in the box.
I am a big fan of Delta 100. My father (when he was still shooting film; he has since converted to 100% digital work) shot almost exclusively TMX in 120 and developed in HC-110, and he got fantastic results in his prints.
Maybe a decade ago or so, I did a fairly informal side-by-side comparison between the two. I found I preferred Delta 100 ever so slightly to TMX. It had enough resolution and low enough grain to make me happy even in 35mm for demanding subjects that needed high-detail rendering, but seemed to have more "character" than TMX 100, which felt rather sterile by comparison. I realize that descriptors like that are ephemeral and more or less entirely unhelpful. But my experience has mirrored that of others here who find TMX to be slightly less grainy, though Delta is by no means a grainy film.
I have not developed Delta 100 in Pyrocat HD yet. I have developed it in Rodinal (didn't care for it; rather defeated the purpose of using a fine T-grain film IMO), HC-110 (good but not my favorite), and instant Mytol (basically XTOL). Of the three, Mytol has been my favorite. It has extremely high resolution and low grain even in 35mm, and achieves full shadow detail when shot at box speed.
I will probably try it in Pyrocat HD at some point, but it would have to do something pretty special to displace FP4+ as my favorite low-ish speed film in 35mm with Pyrocat. I would expect compared to Mytol that you'd get a bit more grain, a bit more acutance, and slightly better shadow separation. And of course the staining.
A picture is worth a thousand words. Here's a full uncropped frame of 35mm Delta 100, developed in Mytol, and printed on 8x10 Ilford MG FB at grade 2 and selenium toned. It was shot with a #25 red filter which definitely added some contrast. This print was flattened and then scanned on my Epson flatbed at 600DPI. After scanning I just set black & white points and added a hair of sharpness to overcome the optical weakness in the scanner. The goal when scanning fiber prints for me is always to get the most accurate possible representation of what the print looks like in real life, onto the screen. I bring this up because I want to be transparent, but also clear that what you see is not digitally "upgraded" from what the print actually looks like to my eyes.
Maybe a decade ago or so, I did a fairly informal side-by-side comparison between the two. I found I preferred Delta 100 ever so slightly to TMX. It had enough resolution and low enough grain to make me happy even in 35mm for demanding subjects that needed high-detail rendering, but seemed to have more "character" than TMX 100, which felt rather sterile by comparison. I realize that descriptors like that are ephemeral and more or less entirely unhelpful. But my experience has mirrored that of others here who find TMX to be slightly less grainy, though Delta is by no means a grainy film.
I have not developed Delta 100 in Pyrocat HD yet. I have developed it in Rodinal (didn't care for it; rather defeated the purpose of using a fine T-grain film IMO), HC-110 (good but not my favorite), and instant Mytol (basically XTOL). Of the three, Mytol has been my favorite. It has extremely high resolution and low grain even in 35mm, and achieves full shadow detail when shot at box speed.
I will probably try it in Pyrocat HD at some point, but it would have to do something pretty special to displace FP4+ as my favorite low-ish speed film in 35mm with Pyrocat. I would expect compared to Mytol that you'd get a bit more grain, a bit more acutance, and slightly better shadow separation. And of course the staining.
A picture is worth a thousand words. Here's a full uncropped frame of 35mm Delta 100, developed in Mytol, and printed on 8x10 Ilford MG FB at grade 2 and selenium toned. It was shot with a #25 red filter which definitely added some contrast. This print was flattened and then scanned on my Epson flatbed at 600DPI. After scanning I just set black & white points and added a hair of sharpness to overcome the optical weakness in the scanner. The goal when scanning fiber prints for me is always to get the most accurate possible representation of what the print looks like in real life, onto the screen. I bring this up because I want to be transparent, but also clear that what you see is not digitally "upgraded" from what the print actually looks like to my eyes.
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