When I first started scanning film with my film scanner (a Minolta Dimage Scan Elite F-2900), I was seeing a lot of what I thought was over-prominent grain in my scans. After doing some reading, I think what I was seeing was not, strictly speaking, film grain, but rather grain plus an artifact of the scanning process. Some articles refer to this phenomenon as "grain aliasing" -- which you can use as a search term to learn more about it. By trying out different scan settings in VueScan, and different sharpening settings in Adobe Photoshop and Lightroom, I was able to reduce the effect to a more tolerable level.
However, since I switched from using a film scanner for copying my negatives to using a digital camera, I have been much happier with the appearance of the film grain. For whatever reason, the grain as seen on my camera-scans looks a lot less "gritty" a lot more natural.
EDIT: Here is a link that presents the case for "grain aliasing" -- what it is, and what can be done about it:
I am back !!
scanners are for digitalizing only!!!
the great hoax scanners are not for color separations !!!
color separations for 4/c process that is the photo mechanical reproduction of images onto the photo-lithographic process. [*] after 1989 ???
[*] THE CHROMAGRAPH // for CMYK to reproduce C=cyan M=magenta Y=yellow K=black
and separates the image onto this 4 key colours.
The very first [*]Chromagraphs were first to be driven with PCs and were initially beta-tested in 1977 for special super large scale poster prints wall art ads…[by dupont].
in this time 1977 colour work for the photo-lithographic process was done with a floor camera.
I think resolution is probably one of the reasons why my camera-scans are much less bothered by grain aliasing, compared to my old film scanner. Minolta says my Dimage Scan Elite film scanner will a scan 35mm film at 2688 x 4032 pixels, or about 10.8MP. And a full frame capture of 35mm film on my digital camera would be about 3264 x 4896, or almost 16MP.Bingo, for an image with low grain, other than starting with a film with low grain, which several posters have mentioned, you need to scan with as high resolution as possible, to avoid grain aliasing or get it as small as possible. The rest is avoiding bad sharpening and what remains can be reduced with noise reducing tools, but this come sat a cost to image quality, and if all previous steps go well and if you can live with the way film images look (otherwise, why shoot film in this day and age?), it shouldn't be necessary.
I think resolution is probably one of the reasons why my camera-scans are much less bothered by grain aliasing, compared to my old film scanner. Minolta says my Dimage Scan Elite film scanner will a scan 35mm film at 2688 x 4032 pixels, or about 10.8MP. And a full frame capture of 35mm film on my digital camera would be about 3264 x 4896, or almost 16MP.
By the way, there is no real scientific evidence 'grain aliasing" exists, it's just another pseudo-scientific theory propagated over the years by a few amateurs whose "articles" have been carted about every time "scanned grain" is mentioned. One of these is the one you linked to before.
Well, I don't really understand much of what I read, so everything I think I know about technology is probably wrong. But this much I do know -- I spent a lot of time trying to prevent and / or fix unpleasant, gritty, and unnatural looking "grain" in the scans from my film scanner -- and that problem went away when I switched to camera scanning. In addition, my camera scans are noticeably sharper than my film scanner results. Really, my camera scans are superior in every observable way except one: I did like the colors I was getting from the film scanner better. But now that I am shooting B&W film exclusively, I don't care about color film. Nor does the OP.Are you pixel shifting?
If not, your DSLR scans are, in fact, 1/3rd the resolution you think they are so just about 5 odd MB of real image data.
This is because the sensor in your digital camera is behind a Bayer (or worse, Xtrans) colour grid and each pixel is filtered by one of R, B,G color filter only.
A software interpolation called "demosaicisation" is then performed on your data by the camera or by your chosen raw converter to return a usable image. This introduces significant colour and, to a lesser extent, spatial artefacts which are likely to play a role in the rendering of the grain you're getting and why you think it's "more natural" than on your film scanner.
Not sure what is the significance of diffused light. Yes, my camera-scanned film is illuminated with a diffuse light source. But my Minolta Dimage Scan Elite uses a "cold cathode fluorescent light source" -- isn't that also a diffuse light source? What kind of light source is better than diffuse, and why?But @MattKing is right. With a DSLR scanning setup you're illuminating the whole image at once with a diffused light, unlike what happens with your film scanner, and that will play a major role.
Your assumption is not correct. I am using a Rodenstock APO-Rodagon D 75mm f/4.0 lens. If I understand correctly, the "D" stands for "Duplication" and this lens optimised for reproduction/duplication at 1:1. My camera scans are done at a slightly lower maginification than 1:1, so perhaps it is not the perfect lens for my application, but it is better, I think, than the average "SLR lens" (whatever that is).On top of that, you're likely using an SLR lens to scan your film, so it's unclear what effect this is having on grain rendition, especially on the image periphery. Do coma and aberration play a role? Is the lens you're using optimised for operating at the distance and magnification required for film scanning?
I can't argue with that. I read enough about "grain aliasing" to realize that it is controversial. I usually put the term in quotations marks as a hint to suggest, "this may not mean what you think it does." It is sort of a short-hand term used to loosely apply to the phenomenon of unexpected heavy grain observed on film scans.By the way, there is no real scientific evidence 'grain aliasing" exists, it's just another pseudo-scientific theory propagated over the years by a few amateurs whose "articles" have been carted about every time "scanned grain" is mentioned. One of these is the one you linked to before.
I think resolution is probably one of the reasons why my camera-scans are much less bothered by grain aliasing, compared to my old film scanner.
Not sure what is the significance of diffused light.
scanners are for digitalizing only!!!
the great hoax scanners are not for color separations !!!
Finally, coming back to the 'scanned grain' aspect: note that it makes a lot of difference how you scan your film. E.g. on my flatbed Epson 4990 I get relatively grain-free scans - but they're also somewhat less crisp and detailed than from e.g. my film-dedicated Minolta Scan Dual IV.
To give an illustration (since I was messing with some scanners & film anyway), take this image:
View attachment 390916
Kodak Double X, developed in Pyrocat HD. Let's say it's a 'medium grain' negative. Not awfully grainy, but a far cry from TMX smoothness. Here's some 100% crops from various scans.
View attachment 390917 Konica Minolta Scan Dual IV, 3200dpi
View attachment 390921Flextight Precision II, 5760dpi
View attachment 390922Epson 4990, 4800dpi
All three scans received a small amount of unsharp mask with a low (but non-zero) threshold to emphasize the structure of the scanned grain.
What I think this example illustrates is that in a scanned image, you can't really speak of 'analog grain' anymore. It's always an interaction between the physical ('analog') structure of the image and the scanner & scanning process. Also, the examples show that in all cases, the grain ('as scanned') manifests itself as noise in a digital image.
The nature of the noise is different, even though the physical negative is the same. If you want to reduce this 'apparent graininess', it's a matter of using whatever digital noise filter you can get your mitts on and manipulate its parameters (insofar as possible) to suit the structure of the noise in the image. Where this noise originates is pretty much irrelevant at this point, and a noise filter cannot and doesn't have to differentiate between 'grain' and other types of noise. It's all noise; what matter is not where it came from, but what its signature is.
Your best bet for dealing with noise is to experiment with a tool that has several parameters you can tweak. One (free) example would be G'MIC, which is a plugin suite for GIMP. It contains, among many others, several noise reduction tools (referred to as 'smoothing'). See e.g. here https://www.mora-foto.it/en/tutorials-gimp/noise-reduction-with-gmic.html
But I think you're talking about something broader aren't you?
And why "reduce grain" on film scan ? If anything, wouldn't preserving that grain be THE way to follow the idea of film shooting to start with ? Grain isn't digital noise and if it is too big to your eye, use finer grain film/processing.
In the end, any attempts to fake the look of scanned film image becomes non-film image.
The thing is, a lot of people claim that scanning film emphasizes grain more than the actual amount of grain. In other words, scanned film looks grainier than it should, given the amount of grain on a sample of film.
I don't know if that is true, but enough people have claimed it to be true that one should probably not discard the claim out of hand.
a lot of people claim that scanning film emphasizes grain more than the actual amount of grain. In other words, scanned film looks grainier than it should
But if true that means scanning adds own noise to grain
See examples in #39. The answer is 'it depends'.
That's not the point. The point is:
1: You can't speak of 'grain' as such in a digital image. It's always, inherently the result of an interaction between the physical image structure (real grain) and the imaging method (in this case scanning).
2: Ultimately, grain as perceived in a digital image is just a form (subset) of noise. Thus, noise-reduction tools apply, regardless if they're "intended" for digital or 'analog' grain. What matters is not where the image noise originates from, but what its characteristics are in terms of (distribution of) spatial frequency, intensity etc.
These seem fairly simple and straightforward observations to me, and the practical implication is also simple & straightforward. There's no need to make things complicated. Just regard grain in scans as any other form of image noise and (a) accept it for what it is or (b) smoothen it out through whichever tool one prefers.
For all I know this is what everyone does, but I’d be interested in comments. Is there any better everyday strategy, without getting over-complicated?
I think it depends on the material you start out with and the end result you want to arrive at. So no, I don't think it's possible to suggest a single type of shoe that will fit any given foot on the planet.Is there any better everyday strategy, without getting over-complicated?
grain that comes from actual analog side of scanned film can show separately enough from digital noise
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