For my own work (which requires color, so also red in addition to green and blue), it's a dead end street since there simply are no single-element LEDs that are powerful enough, so I stick to LED panels, which means a diffuse light source, but I do keep the condensors in my 138 in place, so it's a diffusor/condensor setup effectively.
Collimating means you bend the rays so they become parallel. So here it seems you're basically saying the same thing twice: converge to straight path sounds pretty much the same as collimation to me. Perhaps a drawing would help? Do you mean collimate first, and then converge them into a single node that aligns with the upper condensor?
Likely he just misunderstood the design of a condernser. To reduce abberations (which not only are an issue for imaging, but lighting rays) at the classic condenser a single element convex lens was substituted by two plano-convex lens element with inbetween them paralled rays. Thus this paralel part is not a necessity for illuminating the fil image, but to optomise the the condenser as such.
That is another experiment I will have to try. I still have an old RGB LED strip lying around where the back is already separating from the clear flexible plastic cover after about 5 years. Definitely not quality material, but should work
All red power leds I have come across are red in color. It's not the color of the lens, it's the surface of the led die itself. A phosphor? Don't think so. It would be inefficient, have an unnecessary short lifetime and materials with a suitable bandgap are amply available.as a point source. The one in your photo is a little strange too.
All red power leds I have come across are red in color. It's not the color of the lens, it's the surface of the led die itself. A phosphor? Don't think so. It would be inefficient, have an unnecessary short lifetime and materials with a suitable bandgap are amply available.
Hello John,
You need the correct condensers for the magnification you are enlarging, and for the lens you are using. To give an idea of this, you can look at the Durst 138 manual pages 30 and 31. You see the different combinations of condensers used for different scenarios.
Well, truth be told, it's hard to be sure. I do have to say though that I stick to 660nm for red since I have the impression that the 620-630nm ones have a more pronounced secondary emission in the green part of the spectrum which is not nice when doing color! However, the led dies look pretty much the same between the 620 and 660 ones. You do notice that 660 is a bit deeper and consequently dimmer (due to the sensitivity of the human eye) than 620, which is probably why 95% of the red leds are 620 instead of 660.You clearly know what you are talking about, so happy to accept that the COB is equipped with "proper" red LED!
merged..It would be much, much, much better if this discussion was all in John's normal thread, not in this strangely located, Social Group thread.
Here is that normal thread: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/led-based-point-source-enlarger.184785/
I could be wrong, but I don't think the moderators have any ability to move posts from Social Group threads to normal threads.
Doubtless workable for a diffuse source. Just one caveat. I used a royal blue led because its light largely falls outside the sensitivity curve for the green emulsion(s) of Ilfords multigrade. Or so I have read.
All red power leds I have come across are red in color. It's not the color of the lens, it's the surface of the led die itself. A phosphor? Don't think so. It would be inefficient, have an unnecessary short lifetime and materials with a suitable bandgap are amply available.
I'm not sure, but I do know that the beads I use are all of the 2nd or 3rd type in your photos, and that they seem to work fine. I have no experience with the first type with the dotted die. It does seem to be of a different type for sure, but haven't come across that type myself.Would you agree with my assessment on the first of the green LED?
KoraksDid you do the cd/DVD test to get a qualitative impression of the spectrum?
I'm not so sure about that; I would have expected the peak to be far wider and deviating more from a bell curve shape. Small blips on the sides of the central peak are usually the effects of contaminants in the chemistry used in manufacturing. I have the strong impression they're often excluded from these plots...It corresponds more closely to a phosphor than a true green.
Koraks,Your spectrometer sounds like a fun/useful gizmo
Mmmm, two schools of thought there.@John Tindle that is very interesting indeed! A few months ago I did a similar measurement, but with PWM modulation. I noticed no distinct non-linearities that way, but the green leds I used were not of your dotted suspected-phosphor type. Still, I'd stick with PWM if only for the simplicity of the driver, at least if you want accurate control over light output. It's just so much easier than linear dimming.
Hi AgXone would have to build a micro- mixing chambe
Yeah, I use MP24894 which does the same, and can dim linear or pwm depending on how you drive the dim pin. But pwm is more flexible (it also goes down to very low duty cycles where linear dimming is unavailable) and likely more accurate / less prone to minor fluctuations in voltage. Unless the choppy nature of pwm is a problem (which it isn't when enlarging), I consider pwm preferable.but I have some very nice constant current modules that take pcm in and translates that into constant current
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