Metz 45 CL4 pressed into service as a studio flash.

[John Bragg]

I have started using my 45 CL4 and CT1 as studio flashes. I have a 2 head Multiblitz kit, but that can be overkill power wise and sometimes less is more when looking for shallow depth of field. I have another 45 CL4 on the way and just scored 2 Nickel Metal Hydride batteries and a Metz charger to breathe new life into these classic units. I plan to use this 3 head kit with 2 brollies and one as a hair light/kicker. Has anyone here got experience with a similar setup ? Camera wise I have a Nikon F5 and F90x, both capable flash performers. I also have an sca ttl adaptor and 2m ttl curly lead at my disposal. I plan to use manual or auto settings, and use my Polaris flash meter to balance the output. Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated.

 

[wiltw]

I have considerable background using Metz 45CL4/-3 flash units, which I used for wedding/event photography with film cameras. I still trust the Metz units for exposure consistency and accuracy far more than I trust eTTL flash control.
I used them in softboxes rather than umbrellas, as there were a number of speedrings for the Metz hammerhead flashes that could be used with a very wide variety of brands of softboxes. The on-camera unit was perched high over the camera lens with a bracket, so I could use a softbox without blocking the view of the lens, and it was set to TTL flash control with my Bronica ETRSi. The off-camera flash could be used with the Mecamat remote sensor so it would have its own photosensor control even when put into a softbox. I used them with Quantum external battery packs for much more rapid recycle times than using AA batteries. I still keep both Metz and Quantums refreshed regularly.
And I would use them as portable replacements for studio flash units, for portrait sittings, although I took advantage of their auto flash power control rather than manual power levels...easy to ratio via setting ISO values appropriately and/or telling them f/stop settings different from actual settings. Quicker to set up and less bother than using a handlehel flash meter for power levels.
As for the hairlight use, I would prefer something with a constant modelling light, to aid in optimally potionting the hairlight to best effect.

 

[John Bragg]

I have considerable background using Metz 45CL4/-3 flash units, which I used for wedding/event photography with film cameras. I still trust the Metz units for exposure consistency and accuracy far more than I trust eTTL flash control.
I used them in softboxes rather than umbrellas, as there were a number of speedrings for the Metz hammerhead flashes that could be used with a very wide variety of brands of softboxes. The on-camera unit was perched high over the camera lens with a bracket, so I could use a softbox without blocking the view of the lens, and it was set to TTL flash control with my Bronica ETRSi. The off-camera flash could be used with the Mecamat remote sensor so it would have its own photosensor control even when put into a softbox. I used them with Quantum external battery packs for much more rapid recycle times than using AA batteries. I still keep both Metz and Quantums refreshed regularly.
And I would use them as portable replacements for studio flash units, for portrait sittings, although I took advantage of their auto flash power control rather than manual power levels...easy to ratio via setting ISO values appropriately and/or telling them f/stop settings different from actual settings. Quicker to set up and less bother than using a handlehel flash meter for power levels.
As for the hairlight use, I would prefer something with a constant modelling light, to aid in optimally potionting the hairlight to best effect.

Thanks for your reply. That is the sort of practical experience I was hoping for. I was very happy to get the NiMH battery packs, as they are a real step up from my original NiCad packs, (long since defunct), although I hope to move up to Quantum packs at some future time. I now have a lightweight travelling kit with minimal outlay.

 

[baachitraka]

You may rewire inside the metz 45 cl-4 to take NimH batteries with this basket,

https://www.flickr.com/photos/rightmarker47/sets/72157625353862957/

This gives an idea about the poles and its easy to do it inside the the hammer head.

But original link that shows the rewiring, is not available anymore.

https://www.pbase.com/dvas/metz_45cl4_battery_pack_conversion (not working)

 

[John Bragg]

You may rewire inside the metz 45 cl-4 to take NimH batteries with this basket,

https://www.flickr.com/photos/rightmarker47/sets/72157625353862957/

This gives an idea about the poles and its easy to do it inside the the hammer head.

But original link that shows the rewiring, is not available anymore.

https://www.pbase.com/dvas/metz_45cl4_battery_pack_conversion (not working)

Very interesting. Sadly I only have one of those left and it is £25 plus postage for a non oem replacement. Certainly food for thought if it keeps the flash in commission. I keep looking for a bargain powerpack like Quantum (I missed one on Ebay last week). The Chinese Godox version looks good too.

 

[baachitraka]

In fact I have used RC batteries which is rated as 7.2v and 4500mA (crazy recharge times but its kind of bulky). Then I settled down with Eneloops and finally with

https://www.ikea.com/de/de/p/ladda-akku-aufladbar-70303876/

Nice ratings and not a bad recharge times.

 

[baachitraka]

Very interesting. Sadly I only have one of those left and it is £25 plus postage for a non oem replacement. Certainly food for thought if it keeps the flash in commission. I keep looking for a bargain powerpack like Quantum (I missed one on Ebay last week). The Chinese Godox version looks good too.

No need to get a new battery baskets just the existing battery basket that are taking alkaline cells.

After rewiring inside the hammer head then it should be always NimH batteries.

 

[John Bragg]

No need to get a new battery baskets just the existing battery basket that are taking alkaline cells.

After rewiring inside the hammer head then it should be always NimH batteries.

That is a great suggestion, however, my point is that I have only one remaining basket (one destroyed by a leaky Duracell) and 2 flash heads. I would need to buy more anyhow.

 

[baachitraka]

Otherwise, this wired to hammer head https://www.kab24.de/strom-licht/ad...cker-2-pol-jst-kupplung-kabel-je-ca-28cm.html

and connected to

https://www.conrad.de/de/p/conrad-e...ellen-zahl-6-stick-tamiya-stecker-206032.html

 

[wiltw]

You may rewire inside the metz 45 cl-4 to take NimH batteries with this basket,

https://www.flickr.com/photos/rightmarker47/sets/72157625353862957/

This gives an idea about the poles and its easy to do it inside the the hammer head.

But original link that shows the rewiring, is not available anymore.

https://www.pbase.com/dvas/metz_45cl4_battery_pack_conversion (not working)

What is the reason for 'rewiring'? My original user manual mentions nothing about rewiring. AA are 1.5V whereas NiMH are 1.35V, so not an issue of overvoltage with NiMJ.

 

[baachitraka]

This,

is kind of expensive and those batteries are not replaceable.

So with rewiring it is possible to use NimH with this basket.

 

[Dennis-B]

Back in the 70's, and on into the 80's, I used Honeywell Strobonars very successfully as studio lights. Honeywell had several adapters for putting the lights on stands, and I used Larsen umbrella's as reflectors. The Strobonars also had "Strobodomes" which worked very well for diffusing the lights. You could mount two of them on the same adapter to get 2x the light. I had a couple of 700's and 770's.

I also had a couple of the 202 Strobonars which worked well. They served me well until I bought my four Sunpak MS4000 monolights; then I discovered what real lighting was. The Strobonars did work well as background and hair lights.

 

[John Bragg]

Pleased to say I took delivery of a second 45 CL4 today and it is in great condition with all the bits and boxed as well. Even the NiCad pack still holds a charge !