Reusing photos from way earlier...
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Yeah removing that top panel gave access. The shutter blades are all riveted to their linkage arms and didn't seem super ready to jump out, but i'd still try be cautious about not moving them too much or tipping the shutter over with the cover removed. Also watch out for the lever to actually fire the shutter since it could be a mess if that tripped with the cover off.
A few big things come loose. There's a shim/ leaf thing on the left that comes out, there's the reinforcing panels on the outside of the shutter's cover that can come loose, and in that photo is a bit of white tape i'm fairly sure was from the spool of a roll of film and not original to the camera - there were a couple of torn sprocket holes in the body too.
The tricky part though is that spring on the right that comes loose. The longer leg rests against one of those posts (take note of which one before opening it. It looks like the lower of the 2nd post from the bottom but it's not super clear in the photo) and the hook attaches to the linkage arm. There might be a way to trap it and hold it still before removing the cover, like a blob of blu tack... although i'd worry about that fouling things or depositing unwanted oils. It's fiddly to reattach though.
The method that worked for me was to unhook the spring from the hole in the linkage, position the long arm around where it's supposed to go (on the outer edge of the post), put the cover back on after replacing the bumpers (a tiny bit of temporary tape helped keep that one shim/leaf thing in place), then trip the shutter since that moves the hole in the linkage down and to the right and closer to the edge for access. Then using whatever tiny hooks or tweezers you have available, try fish the spring's hook into it's hole. It took me a few tries since I kept accidentally flexing the top cover enough that the spring's long arm was able to escape over the top of the post it rests again. It was a real fiddle.
It's a shame they didn't just put a little notch in that post to catch the spring. But I guess the whole unit was never supposed to be opened like this.
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What if I try to bend the bottom edge down? It's not connected to the frame. Then I can remove the stuff and put in a replacement.
Brutal of course, but it saves having to open the unit.
Most likely you'd just bend the whole thing.
Apparently the shutter was only designed for complete replacement, not for repair.
I'm trying it on the shutter unit that I removed during a dissection.
Wonder if there was some deal with Copal (I assume) supplying the shutters. Like if I was John Copal, the CEO of Copal, i'd not want to sell Minolta shutters knowing they're giving out instructions on how to repair them. I'd want them to buy whole new shutters.
Maybe you could saw or grind the tabs off? I assume that frame is made from aluminium so you don't gotta worry about magnetic debris. Then replace it with some kind of effed up carved or 3d printed block that holds the rubber bumpers, adhered in place but also secured by touching the frame of the camera (possibly being adhered down there too, with epoxy).
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I think just opening it and replacing the bumpers with some ones cut to the same shape as the originals is the way to go... there's way less potential for damage.
The abrasive grinder would produce a ton of fine abrasive dust you wouldn't want anywhere near the shutter mechanism. Plus aluminium is gummy and would probably clog the thing too. A burr or a saw might be a better fit... but still, I think opening it with screw removal is the easiest option. It's only the one spring you've got to worry about, and its not too bad.
The cameras back together. Got a fright thinking the autofocus was now going weird but it was just the atrocious minimal focus distance of the 28-135mm lens.
I'm fairly sure this LCD connection will be more robust. It's like known stuff, zebra strips. I wasn't sure what to expect from that tape or how it really behaves. I've concluded the camera fixed so many times at this point that i've ran out of things to say to try cap it off, lol. I need to actually take some photos with it, but I wanna get the NiCd battery back together for that. It'd also give me time to let it sit and see if any problems occur before I've put film in it.
I had not know of the zebra connector until now. May I ask how it maintains contact? Is it sticky, do you use conductive glue , or are the parts just held together with pressure?
I have almost everything that can be attached to the front of the Dremels. They are my favorites, the big and the small one, even if I get criticized for them here in the forum
But the idea of the machine fascinates me.
I always approach it carefully, I can practice on the shutter parts of the dissection.
In any case, I will try to remove the shutter unit and tape it up. Then there will be no abrasion coming in.
I will have to fix it in place for this, I will see whether the vice with soft plastic jaws is suitable for this
The tungsten carbide cutters remove everything, the prerequisite is a stable, steady hand. Or the diamond cutters.
There is no point in trying to talk me out of having this very special fun
But in any case I will also consider dismantling the shutter.
A single targeted blow with the sharp cheese cleaver would be a sporty alternative
And here is the cause of digits that gradually disappear. Progressive corrosion on the contacts to the conductive rubber:
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Good
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Bad
Nikon F3/T: LCD replaced
A project that has occupied me for years without being able to tackle it - for lack of a replacement display and know-how. Now it's implemented 😀 With my most beautiful F3/T (never used before), I had to watch the LCD display in the viewfinder slowly but steadily disappear. At first, only...www.photrio.com
And here is the cause of digits that gradually disappear. Progressive corrosion on the contacts to the conductive rubber:
Ok, now your thread on that repair from a while back makes more sense to me.
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