Minolta XD: Dent in top cover removed, Aperture Direct Readout (ADR) adjusted, fixed LED issues, switches S3, S5 and S7 checked

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Andreas Thaler

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If you want to work without leaving marks with the hammer, you can cover the area to be worked on with chamois leather.

In this case this does not matter, as the area will not be visible once the top cover is installed.
 
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Andreas Thaler

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Fixed LED issues

Today's final inspection of the XD revealed that in mode A (aperture priority) when the aperture ring was turned, all the LEDs in the viewfinder glowed dimly and flickered.

In mode S (shutter priority) the LEDs disappeared and the lower red triangle for over-range lighted up. Tiny movements of the aperture ring solved the problems, but not reliably.

Obviously a contact problem above the bayonet ring, where wipers and contact tracks are located.

So I disassembled the bayonett area of the XD to have a look.



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First, I checked the conductive and resistance tracks with wipers for entering the smallest aperture on the lens into the camera's exposure metering system.

I cleaned it with electronic cleaner and bent the wipers a little so that they have stable contact.


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I also worked the tracks with an eraser, here the tracks for entering the preselected aperture. Some coating came off in the process. But it was the gold plating! 😳

But none of this solved the problem.


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So I looked at the wipers on the ring for the aperture transmission.

I can't see anything unusual here, the two contact brushes show no wear and are neatly aligned.


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I removed the ring (in the picture on the right) from a second XD-7 that worked and put it into the XD to test it. And now the LEDs light up in the viewfinder as they should.

So it was the ring!

I'll look at what doesn't work here later.

Both brushes are electrically connected to one another. The upper one runs along a resistance path and the lower one transfers the voltage to the camera. The whole thing works according to the principle of a variable resistor.

I gave the XD-7 its ring back with polite thanks 😌

Here are three things to look out for when disassembling/assembling:

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There are two tabs at the bottom of the plastic cover of the bayonet. I partially broke off the left one.


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The two tabs engage with the front cover. Therefore, the base plate must be removed before dismantling the plastic cover.


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The spring for the aperture transmission ring must be on the outside. It takes a bit of practice until it obeys you.


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Now I want to look for a replacement for the ring.

This XD-7 had to give it away.


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The decision was not difficult for me.

The camera has a dent on the top cover, the inner panel of the mirror box is no longer attractive (Schneideritis) and it looks very used.

It is also the version with shrinking leather. You can recognize this series by the lever for the exposure compensation wheel. It points towards the front of the camera.

Since I need a spare parts donor for future projects anyway, I removed the ring.

The wipers on the ring look very worn, but the important thing is that the XD is happy.

And it is, all LEDs are behaving normally again and are stable after replacing the ring 🙂


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Excellent teamwork today! 🌈
 
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Andreas Thaler

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Conclusion
  • Strange problems with electronics are often caused by bad contacts.
  • Cleaning often helps, but not always.
  • Sometimes metal contacts also need to be adjusted by bending or replaced.
  • All gold-plated contacts should be handled with care and not confused with oxidation.
  • Be careful if something doesn't come off even though it should. I thought the plastic cover of the bayonet was held in place with glue. But it was the two plastic tabs on the bottom.

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Andreas Thaler

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The gold coating on the conductor tracks is probably a protection against corrosion. With intensive and long-term use, the wipers wear away some of it, as I saw on the XD-7 for spare parts. The coating is extremely thin and looks as if it had been vapor-deposited.

The conductor unit here is permanently connected to the flexible circuit board, so replacing it would not be easy.

You can see the connection here:

A.jpg



 
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Andreas Thaler

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For the structure and cleaning of conductor resistance tracks on Minolta X see:




A Minolta XG-7 is shown here, but the technical principle is the same for all Minolta X.

If the LED displays are acting crazy, this is the first place to start a check.
 
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Andreas Thaler

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Today's check of the XD revealed that the exposure meter can only be activated after the shutter has been cocked. There were also strange creaking noises coming from the camera.

Very mysterious, I hope I can put an end to this haunting.
 
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Andreas Thaler

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Today's check of the XD revealed that the exposure meter can only be activated after the shutter has been cocked. There were also strange creaking noises coming from the camera.

Very mysterious, I hope I can put an end to this haunting.

This problem with the exposure meter seems to occur frequently. I have found a few questions about it on the web, but no solution. Contact or capacitor problems are suspected. There is a troubleshooting entry for this in the Minolta service manual.

So I have to investigate again, and of all things, with a new XD that I want to keep.

If I assume that in electronics only capacitors and contacts can become inoperable due to aging, this already limits the troubleshooting.

Let's see what can be done.

Technical information available, including a detailed contribution by Larry Lyells:

 
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Andreas Thaler

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According to this posting, there is some work to be done 🙃

 
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Andreas Thaler

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Checking of switches S3, S5 and S7

In his technical report on pages 55/56, Larry Lyells describes a problem with the LEDs:

No LEDs with release button partially depressed, shutter works ok.

This obviously refers to the shutter cocked state.

The problem with my XD is that the LEDs in the viewfinder remain dark when the shutter is not cocked and the release button partially depressed.

It's not a serious problem as the camera works perfectly, but I still want to get to the bottom of it.



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On page 17, Larry gives instructions on how to test switches S5 (metering) and S3 (release) without removing the mirror box (top cover dismounted).

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To do this for S5, measure the voltage at the green cable connection to ground. There should be 2.5 volts here and 0 volts when the release button is halfway pressed in.

For S3, there should also be 2.5 volts to ground at the orange cable connection and 0 volts when the release button is fully pressed in.

I measure 2.8 volts and 0 volts in each case, so the switches are working. I do both measurements with the shutter cocked.

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The function of S7 (page 28) can be checked by testing the white cable connection after removing the base plate.

There is continuity to ground when the shutter is cocked, so this switch also works.



I found this information in the Minolta service manual (page 148):

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  • I have already checked switches S5 and S7,
  • as well as the blue cables (as far as visible).
  • IC2 is built into the camera and requires disassembly.


I don't see any other options for clearing up the problem. Without instructions, troubleshooting here makes no sense.

Parts of the circuit are located in three ICs, two of which are built deep into the camera. This also applies to most of the switches.

Even with Larry's explanations, which total 59 pages, I at least cannot check the circuit for errors, apart from visually checking the visible parts of the board and doing some measurements to compare actual and target values.

So I'm glad that it's not a serious problem and I'm closing the XD project.


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Andreas Thaler

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An observation I made after assembling the XD prompted me to continue troubleshooting.

After a while the shutter is released, the LEDs light up when I tap the shutter button, as they should. There is obviously a delay here, which leads me to believe that a capacitor is defective and is not recharging instantly as it should. In addition, there is the strange crackling noise that can still be heard.

I will look at the circuit diagram to see which tantalum capacitor could be the problem.
 
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Andreas Thaler

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I have not found anything about it in the circuit diagram.

So I could check all the tantalum capacitors and the voltages on the IC pins, but what would that do? I would have to remove the mirror box and that could cause further problems.

That would be a project for a training camera, but this XD is too good for that.

When I look at Larry Lyells' 59-page article and his already clear circuit descriptions, I have to acknowledge that I only understand the rough basics of the XD circuit at best. And that applies to all similar cameras. You could spend hours studying individual circuit parts, such as the aperture control for example.

Fascinating and demotivating at the same time, but these cameras were developed over years by highly qualified teams. As a DIY repairer, you have to recognize your limitations.

Project finally completed 😌
 
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Andreas Thaler

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And because today is Sunday, the XD surprises me with its flawless functionality. When you press the shutter button, the viewfinder LEDs light up even when the shutter is not cocked.

Did repeated triggering resolve a contact problem? Perhaps with switch S7?

I don't know.

In any case, such a camera is more entertaining than the most sophisticated spy thriller on TV 🤠
 

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Did repeated triggering resolve a contact problem?
I often encountered self repairing of a problem after some hours or days. But these problems showed up again some days later.

Only the main display on the back of a Nikon D2x resisted my efforts to repair, so I put it in a box and forgot about it.
Several months later I remembered the D2x, took it out of the box, inserted a freshly loaded battery cell, switched it on - and everything worked as if there hadn't been a problem before...
And now, again some months later, this D2x is perfectly working still...
 
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Andreas Thaler

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Nothing has changed in terms of condition, all functions work perfectly, so I am satisfied with the completion of the project 🙂
 
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Andreas Thaler

Andreas Thaler

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I often encountered self repairing of a problem after some hours or days. But these problems showed up again some days later.

In this case (the light meter did not turn on after tapping the shutter button), it was obviously a contact problem, even if I don't understand the connection.

Maybe mysterious switch S7 was the culprit? 🔮
 
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