Minolta XD: Dent in top cover removed, Aperture Direct Readout (ADR) adjusted, fixed LED issues, switches S3, S5 and S7 checked

[Andreas Thaler]

I just purchased a mint XD whose top cover is dented.

I am informed by the seller (who kindly provided me with these photos) that it was caused by transport damage.

The following questions arise for me, which I hope to be able to answer as soon as the camera is with me:

• Are parts under the cover damaged by the impact?
• Is the housing warped or the bayonet affected?
• Can I successfully remove the dent?
• To completely repair the damage to the top cover, would it make more sense to look for a new cover?

As always, input is very welcome!

 

[Laurent]

I'd assume the bayonet should be unaffected, or the Minoltas would have been built very cheaply (I assume a shock with enough energy to affect the bayonet should cause more visible damage to the cosmetic parts)

If the prism housing is metal (likely brass or zinc) I'd suppose it's feasible to return it back to its' normal look, or very close. Make sure to use soft wood tools to contact the housing, and a very light hammer. Most of the time I'd rather use light hits that a straight push, as hits will only transfer little energy at a time, while a long push may not move anything until it moves too far. What you want to avoid if to deform the housing too far in the other side, as each deformation will make the metal more brittle and prone to break. There are way to remove this brittleness, but they you'd have to get a repaint done as they are based on heat (and if it's zinc too much heat will make it melt)

Finally, I would suppose parts underneath to be unaffected, as there has to be enough room between them and the cover for it to have net.

Hope it helps.
Good luck

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Thanks, Laurent!

 

[Andreas Thaler]

The top covers of XD7 and XD11 should also fit, but I have read about variations and there is only one on the market at the moment, which shouldn't be compatible.

Well, so I'll have to try my hand at being a coachbuilder too

MINOLTA XD7 XD11 FILM SLR TOP PLATE COVER BLACK early version | eBay

MINOLTA XD7 XD11 FILM SLR TOP PLATE COVER BLACK early version | Cameras & Photography, Replacement Parts & Tools, Film Camera Parts | eBay!

www.ebay.at

 

[Laurent]

The top covers of XD7 and XD11 should also fit, but I have read about variations and there is only one on the market at the moment, which shouldn't be compatible.

Well, so I'll have to try my hand at being a coachbuilder too

MINOLTA XD7 XD11 FILM SLR TOP PLATE COVER BLACK early version | eBay

MINOLTA XD7 XD11 FILM SLR TOP PLATE COVER BLACK early version | Cameras & Photography, Replacement Parts & Tools, Film Camera Parts | eBay!

www.ebay.at

I learned part of this when we built the "Merry go round", and find working with sheet metal very interesting.

One afterthought: I'd probably add some cloth on the "anvil" part (the one on which the cover will be hammered ) to avoid marking the paint and would work from the inside out.

There's nothing to lose, at worst you'll have learned a way of doing that does not work

 

[Kino]

You might get some tips from the multitude of Paintless Dent Pulling videos on YouTube.

Of course they have much bigger parts to work upon, but some of their methods may transfer; hot glue guns, spoons to massage metal from behind and polarized light to inspect the damaged area.

Worth a look...

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Since I am not equipped for this work, I ordered this hammer and striker (rod) as basic equipment:

ELORA Dead-Blow Nylon Soft Faced Hammer, 20 mm, ELORA-1690-20

ELORA Dead-Blow Nylon Soft Faced Hammer, 20 mm, ELORA-1690-20 Shop up to 36% discount | 30.000 Tools on Tools-Giant Online Shop

www.tools-giant.com

Startseite - Allgemeines Werkzeug - - - FACOM

www.facom.eu

And as a gag this mini hammer:

Der 6-in-1 Mini-Miniatur-Kupferhammer und Schraubendreher-Handwerkzeug ist ideal zum Essen von Walnuss und Juwelier-Uhrmachern. (Gold) https://amzn.eu/d/dy0pA9P


There are tools for everything, but miniature tools are harder to find.

Good tools are not cheap, but you only buy them once.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

You might get some tips from the multitude of Paintless Dent Pulling videos on YouTube.

Of course they have much bigger parts to work upon, but some of their methods may transfer; hot glue guns, spoons to massage metal from behind and polarized light to inspect the damaged area.

Worth a look...

Thanks!

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Since I am not equipped for this work, I ordered this hammer and striker (rod) as basic equipment:

ELORA Dead-Blow Nylon Soft Faced Hammer, 20 mm, ELORA-1690-20

ELORA Dead-Blow Nylon Soft Faced Hammer, 20 mm, ELORA-1690-20 Shop up to 36% discount | 30.000 Tools on Tools-Giant Online Shop

www.tools-giant.com

Startseite - Allgemeines Werkzeug - - - FACOM

www.facom.eu

And as a gag this mini hammer:

Der 6-in-1 Mini-Miniatur-Kupferhammer und Schraubendreher-Handwerkzeug ist ideal zum Essen von Walnuss und Juwelier-Uhrmachern. (Gold) https://amzn.eu/d/dy0pA9P


There are tools for everything, but miniature tools are harder to find.

Good tools are not cheap, but you only buy them once.

As a counterpart to hitting, I use a small steel vice on which I place a piece of thin leather or plastic.

 

[grain elevator]

I'm pretty positive you can repair it, but if you need a silver top cover and perhaps also the bottim plate to make it a zebra, I can send you one for cost of shipping from Germany.

 

[ic-racer]

I have a few spare top covers, so I have done top cover swaps when needed. In this case someone had ruined the camera by scratching OCA into the top.

If your camera is otherwise in like new condition, a new top cover might be best.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I'm pretty positive you can repair it, but if you need a silver top cover and perhaps also the bottim plate to make it a zebra, I can send you one for cost of shipping from Germany.

That's very kind of you, thank you very much!

May I come back to you if I can't get the cover right?

 

[Andreas Thaler]

If your camera is otherwise in like new condition, a new top cover might be best.

Yes I agree with you.

 

[grain elevator]

That's very kind of you, thank you very much!

May I come back to you if I can't get the cover right?

Absolutely!

 

[Andreas Thaler]

And as a gag this mini hammer:

Der 6-in-1 Mini-Miniatur-Kupferhammer und Schraubendreher-Handwerkzeug ist ideal zum Essen von Walnuss und Juwelier-Uhrmachern. (Gold) https://amzn.eu/d/dy0pA9P

Just delivered, very nice.

The hammer has sufficient weight, good workmanship, I won't need the screwdrivers.

Good value for money (USD 9.93)

 

[Andreas Thaler]

These additional tools were delivered today.

Two hammers with shock-absorbing hickory handles, metal rods to hit with plastic caps and plastic rods. For size comparison an XD-7.

The tools could be a little smaller for the work ahead, but I'm confident

 

[Andreas Thaler]

My wife was so kind to get me this chamois leather.

I will use this to cover the steel vise on which I will place the bent cover for alignment.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I lost sight of this project, or simply ran away from it

I have the tools now, and I will tackle that soon too.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I've been running away from this project for a long time, but now it's my next one.

A colleague has problems with the shutter speed and aperture displays on his Leica R4, which is closely related to the Minolta XD.

If I take the top cover off my XD trying to remove the dents, we'll take a look. The displays are set up mechanically.

We‘ll start soon!

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Today the sun is shining and I've had a good night's sleep - good conditions to start this project

Since I haven't worked with the Minolta XD (XD7, XD11) yet and this XD is - apart from the dent - as good as new, I'm watching this video to find out how to remove the top cover:

---

Dismantling the top cover to remove the dent

I carefully unscrew the cover above the winding lever using a rubber cloth, which increases the friction and thus provides a good hold.

Obviously this cover is not screwed in, but glued on.


Further disassembly of the winding lever:

Shutter speed dial:

Rewinding crank:

ASA/exposure compensation dial:

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Front prism cover:

The plastic magnifying glass for the Aperture Direct Readout (ADR) for reflecting the aperture number on the lens into the viewfinder has come loose. I'll glue it back on later.

Done.

The top cover is not connected to the circuit board via cables. This saves you having to desolder it.

The electronics.

This movable band reflects the set shutter speed into the viewfinder illuminated by a light opening on the front of the top cover. The band is connected to the shutter speed dial via a cable.

The dented top cover viewed from below.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Not only the top cover is affected, but also the suspension of the shutter speed band and the ADR structure beneath.

I use the copper hammer to knock out the dent on a small vice that I have covered with chamois leather. This protects the outside of the top cover.

I use both sides of the hammer and check the progress in between.

This looks much better now

I carefully adjust the band suspension with the needle-nose pliers.

The height of the aperture reflection in the viewfinder is now correct, but it is still slightly tilted.

I remove one part of the ADR structure, fix the small mirror, which was loose, with Pliobond and adjust the mirror with the pliers.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Adjusting the angle of the small magnifying glass suspension located under the mirror.

Now I am satisfied with the aperture display. It sits straight.

I clean the contact tracks and wipers of the switch for the smallest aperture on the lens with electronics cleaner.

This appliance allows the XD to implement shutter priority (S).

The side covers of the bayonet are made of plastic. I glue the ends with Pliobond under the red mark for changing the lens.

I remove any remaining Pliobond once the front cover of the prism is attached.

Cleaning and aligning the contacts of the ASA/exposure compensation wheel.

The marks of the hammer remain invisible after assembly.

To couple the pin of the rotary ring to the main switch, I set both to position S.

Fitting - the top cover can be put on easily.

Glue the cover cap with Pliobond.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Gluing the small magnifying glass into the prism cover with Pliobond.


On the catwalk - before:

… and afterwards:

The result from different perspectives and lighting.


Conclusion

• Removing the dent was easier than expected.
• The small copper hammer is the ideal tool for this. You can work precisely with it, it is heavy enough for effective blows and can also be used in confined spaces.
• The misaligned parts of the ADR could easily be corrected with the pliers by eye.

+++

All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

The copper hammer on amazon.de:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B07TKVDTSN?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title