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seems like a perfect solution. would this work with any camera that requires the mercury battery 1.35v? Like my Sears | 35RF aka Richo 500g
Nikkormat FT3 vs early Minolta SRT102 which is better?
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seems like a perfect solution. would this work with any camera that requires the mercury battery 1.35v? Like my Sears | 35RF aka Richo 500g
Depending on the tolerance of your workflow, Kodak Portrs 400 can take a huge amount of overexposure and about -3 of underexposure.
Kodak Portra 400 overexposure by Les DMess, on FlickrIt is perfect in that it is super cheap and the diodes are so tiny it should have no issues fitting in most any such application. If the meter works correctly with the mercury battery then it should work with the conversion.
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what could be better than that. cheap, easy to do at home, invisible, permanent. I wish all my problems were this easy to solve.
I am not sure if these meters can be calibrated without using the diode? I sent my Olympus Pen FT for some mechanical work while at the same time he recommended the diode conversion to be done with calibration. Made me think the calibration couldn't have been done without the diode.
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As opposed to calibrating and then installing the diode? Thats the only thing that would make sense unless it had already been recalibrated with the 1.5v without the diode.
That's true -- at least for that film -- but you still have to be in the ballpark, otherwise there would be one shutter speed and one f-stop on every camera.
As I haven't yet started working on my cams, I am guessing the range of adjustments alone cannot compensate for the voltage difference unless the diode is installed to drop it into the ballpark. Otherwise why add the diode if readjusting (calibrating) alone could have dialed it in. This is what John Hermanson (Camtech - Olympus tech) does and I've seen other techs also state this.
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The SRT Super arrived today as described. Whew. All the way from Japan. Paid too much should have been more patient. Have to eat ramen noodles for a while but oh well.
Everyrhing works including the meter. Took the LR 44 out of the Ricoh 500g tested at 1.43v. Installed it in SRT Super. Battery test mode perfectly centered the needle in the black box. Took some readings inside and outside and they were all the same or very close to the Nikkormat FT3. The Nikon FE meter was a little bit in disagreement 1/2 to 1 stop.
Everything is working only thing is the lens wiggles a bit. Not sure why. As far as build quality Nikkormat for the win. The Super has the Mat beat in charm department though. She looks good on the shelf between the X570 and the XD11. I cant believe I have been collecting cameras for over 10 years now. This is the last one, read my lips, no more new taxe erm uh cough cough, no more new (to me) cameras. This is it! Its time to start shooting again!! and printing in the darkroom. I would like to do some hand coloring of b+w prints.
Everyrhing works including the meter. Took the LR 44 out of the Ricoh 500g tested at 1.43v. Installed it in SRT Super. Battery test mode perfectly centered the needle in the black box. Took some readings inside and outside and they were all the same or very close to the Nikkormat FT3. The Nikon FE meter was a little bit in disagreement 1/2 to 1 stop.
Everything is working only thing is the lens wiggles a bit. Not sure why. As far as build quality Nikkormat for the win. The Super has the Mat beat in charm department though. She looks good on the shelf between the X570 and the XD11. I cant believe I have been collecting cameras for over 10 years now. This is the last one, read my lips, no more new taxe erm uh cough cough, no more new (to me) cameras. This is it! Its time to start shooting again!! and printing in the darkroom. I would like to do some hand coloring of b+w prints.
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- GaryFlorida
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You have to eat instant ramen because fresh ramen is quite expensive.
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A black Super. Very pretty.
Check the lens mount screws on the body and on the mount plate on the lens itself.
If any of them are loose, get some Locktite Threadlocker (blue) and unscrew them one at a time, placing a tiny dot on the end of each screw and then tighten snug but not overly tight.
Use a cross tightening pattern like putting on an auto tire to be sure it all goes back evenly.
Unless there is something loose internally to the lens, this should help.
but will be harder to find a repair person.
Where does it "wiggle", and how much? Are you talking about at the lens mount? Since you have other Minolta lenses, do they wiggle on the SUPER too? Check the screws on the back of the lens and the camera lens mount, as has been suggested, but I suspect they are fine. A tiny wiggle is OK, as long as you hear the lens CLICK when you attach it.
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Thank you!
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ok so the mounts are not moving. The lens goes on and clicks into place BUT I noticed right away that when it goes on it takes hardly any rotational effort to couple the lens to the camera, there is not much friction at all to keep it tight. Its the same with all my Minolta NMD (aka MD III) lenses also. It seems whatever springs that are supposed to pull the lens tabs down to the camera mount are not strong enough. Is this a common problem?
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Are you referring to Minolta Maxxum a-mount lenses?
I have lots of Minolta Rokkor lenses and they all can be wiggled about 1mm left-right after they attach. That's not a problem, the lens is attached to the camera at the correct distance from the film. The MC coupler on the lens should just barely touch the MC lug on the camera when it is attached.
If the wiggle is forward and backward as opposed to side to side THEN you have a problem.
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I said AI but I got my lense name mixed up with Nikon. I meant to say MD lenses, specifically the NMD new md lenses. They dont wiggle on any of my other Minolta Cameras (x570, xd-11). Is it easy to turn when you put the lens on your Minolta? Mine is literally hardly any resistance at all. It click into place nicely and stays in place but seems sloppy. Im not used to that.
Since I'm not there, I can't really say what "sloppy" is, other than if the lens doesn't move forward and back at all, and as long as the tab on the camera is barely touching the lug on the camera (when the f-stop ring is at is widest setting), you don't have a problem. I have lenses that don't have much resistance, and only a couple that are a little tight. It's the ones that are tight that I wonder about.
Does the MC lug on the camera rotate OK and have a good spring when no lens is attached? If so, Fuhgeddaboudit. As long as you here the CLICK, you know the lens won't fall off.
Does the MC lug on the camera rotate OK and have a good spring when no lens is attached? If so, Fuhgeddaboudit. As long as you here the CLICK, you know the lens won't fall off.
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the MC lug on the camera rotates fine with good spring without the lens. The lens does not move forward and back but can be moved laterally back and forth about 1mm
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If I recall correctly I had a Minolta Hi Matic 7s, a black one and the lens was wiggly on that camera too. I sold it locally. The crank stroke on it was ridiculous, like 270 deg. It was like dialing on a rotary phone. (old man joke youngsters ).
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also, I wish this camera had Double Exposure. Its the only thing missing
I just ran a simple test again. I did it a LONG time ago, so this was just verification. I installed a mercury 625 battery 1.35v in my SRT102 (I have a pocket solar recharger) and read a gray card in the sun, and matched up the needle in the viewfinder. I then inserted an alkaline 625A 1.55v in the camera. The needle didn't move -- exact same reading.
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Interesting. So no mods needed. Thats awesome! Is it possible someone installed a diode previous to you acquiring the camera?
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