Nikon F-301: Shutter replacement

[George Mann]

The top cover could be easily removed after loosening seven screws?

Apparently the sliding switch wasn't an issue for you. But getting the c-clamp back in could be do to lack of room to manipulate it.

I noticed that you didn't remove the circuit board to reveal the prism as I must do to replace a focussing screen that fell out of it during shipping.

What does it look like I would have to remove to get it out?

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I noticed that you didn't remove the circuit board to reveal the prism as I must do to replace a focussing screen that fell out of it during shipping.

What does it look like I would have to remove to get it out?

It's best to look in the repair manual, there are detailed instructions for disassembly.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I have since been able to acquire a worn-out F-301 with an obviously intact shutter:

Leaked batteries, leatherette worn out and cut, base paint abrasion - this justifies its use as a spare parts store.

This means there is a new project:

Replacing the shutter on the F-301.

It starts next week

 

[Henning Serger]

Hello Andreas,

just an idea for an alternative workflow: I know from my former local Nikon repair service that shutter blades for many Nikon film cameras were available in single units. So in a case of a shutter jam like with your F301, only the damaged blades needs to be / can be replaced. No need for a complete new shutter unit.
Maybe you can find a repair company who still has those for the F301, and is willing to sell them.

Best regards,
Henning

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Hello Andreas,

just an idea for an alternative workflow: I know from my former local Nikon repair service that shutter blades for many Nikon film cameras were available in single units. So in a case of a shutter jam like with your F301, only the damaged blades needs to be / can be replaced. No need for a complete new shutter unit.
Maybe you can find a repair company who still has those for the F301, and is willing to sell them.

Best regards,
Henning

Thanks, Henning!

But even if I get the shutter blades individually, I would still have to remove the defective shutter and then disassemble it.

This way I have a bit of service point luxury and can simply use the replacement part

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I hope that I can replace the shutter 1 : 1 without having to adjust it.

Hence I could also just exchange the blades, which brings me back to Henning.

Let's see what happens.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

The repair manual clearly shows the individual steps for removing the shutter. But it is a spartan instruction that you also have to interpret - as is always the case with these technical documents.

• Practice on the replacement camera when removing it.
• Then everything is done again on the repair candidate and the process is repeated in reverse when installing it.
• Since it is an SLR with a built-in motor, there is less mechanics built in than with an SLR with a manual winding mechanism.
• And since it is a vertical focal plane shutter, the associated mechanics are compactly located on one side.
• The mirror box hangs on the front panel.

Everything is therefore similar to the Nikon F4, which I already know in this respect.

I am therefore optimistic that it will work

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Back to the repair candidate

The leaked battery acid made it from the battery compartment to the positive connection of the power supply in the camera.

It is therefore necessary to check the red cable to see whether battery acid is on its way here or has already leaked out at the other end. It is often unbelievable what distances the acid travels.

If in doubt, I will rewire here. I hope that the cable route will be accessible after removing the front panel.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

The leakage from alkaline batteries is, as the name suggests, alkaline; usually it is P. Hydroxide.

To neutralize the any remaining P. Hydroxide I use vinegar. If it foams then it has neutralized the spillage. I then rinse away the resulting P. Acetate and clean as usual.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

In the SPT Journal September/October 1987, Larry Lyells dedicated a detailed article on the Nikon F-301 (N2000) technology.

There are also notes on disassembly and assembly, which supplement the repair manual.

An update on replacing the shutter blades and troubleshooting can be found in SPT Journal March/April 1988.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

We start soon

RIP

 

[Andreas Thaler]

RIP

Not a burial, but a repair.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

The leakage from alkaline batteries is, as the name suggests, alkaline; usually it is P. Hydroxide.

To neutralize the any remaining P. Hydroxide I use vinegar. If it foams then it has neutralized the spillage. I then rinse away the resulting P. Acetate and clean as usual.

I usually use descaler (Durgol) to remove corrosion and dirt, followed by a bath in cleaning agent if necessary.

durgol - The Swiss Original against Limescale

The Swiss Original against Limescale

www.durgol.com

 

[Andreas Thaler]

In the Nikon Repair Manual, the disassembly down to the shutter is described as a diagram and looks clear.

Larry Lyells goes into detail about this in the SPT Journal, especially about the assembly. Perhaps because it is Nikon's first SLR with an integrated motor drive.

In any case, the process is more complex than with the later Nikon F4.

It's good that I found this article before starting the deep disassembly. Today I should get to the shutter, anyway.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Further disassembly

The adhesive strip is removed on one side.

The yellow adhesive strip is removed.

These four cables that connect the circuit board to the shutter electronics are desoldered.

The same goes for the black and yellow ones that are also connected to the shutter electronics.

The shutter electronics are now separated from the circuit board.

Desoldering the cables to the DX contacts.

Desoldering the power supply.

Desolder this part of the flexible board with desoldering braid.

Completed

Removal of the turntable with the wipers for the ASA adjustment.

The contact plate underneath is lifted off.

The screws of the right part of the circuit board are removed.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I removed the shaft and crown ring here, but I'm not sure if that was necessary.

Leatherette and screws left side.

Right side

Two screws under the leatherette at the front.

Lifting the adhesive tape on the right side.

The front panel can now be separated from the back.

Details front panel

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Details back

The front shutter curtain is closed.

The residue could be due to oil on the slats.

For comparison, below is the spare parts F-301 with closed rear shutter curtain.

The reference shaft disc is removed.

The film-advance unit is detached.

Three screws hold the shutter unit to the back.

After loosening the screws the shutter unit can be removed.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Details Copal shutter unit.

Overview


+++

All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

In the next step, I do the same procedure with my spare part F-301 to remove the shutter unit.

Here we continue with the installation of the replacement.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Further necessary repairs

Apart from the shutter unit, which I will replace, the following work needs to be done:

Repair of the contact and spring on the battery compartment (see thread) or replacement of the unit with spare part from the other F-301:

Check the two power supply cables that connect the battery compartment to the circuit for battery acid damage. Rewiring may be necessary:

Remove corrosion from the contacts of the combined auto exposure lock lever and self-timer button:

Cleaning inside where necessary.

 

[mshchem]

Impressive work.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Impressive work.

Thanks!

And all thanks to Larry Lyells who walks you through all the steps in the SPT Journal.

Without his brilliant contributions this would be a game of trial and error.

If anyone needs the instructions, please PM me. This edition of the SPT Journal is not available on learncamerarepair.com

 

[mshchem]

My camera service is mostly replacing the batteries

 

[Andreas Thaler]

My camera service is mostly replacing the batteries

Solves 75 percent of problems

 

[titrisol]

Great job