Nikon F3 and special models: Care, service and repair

[Andreas Thaler]

Here in Vienna, some F3 and F3 special models have been waiting for care, service and repair for some time.

The respective conditions vary:

• Nikon F3AF: (in the picture top left) Obviously unused, all functions OK, the mirror stop damper and the light seals are sticky and falling apart.
• Nikon F3 Pin Registration: (in the picture top right) Electronics OK, triggers.
• Nikon F3: Winding lever, shutter release button and main switch are missing. The shutter can be pulled with two fingers and is released via the emergency release.
• Two F3 housings that have been dismantled to varying degrees. One of them triggers, but I could not activate the electronics. The other has already been heavily looted.
• An F3 that I dismantled and a Nikon F3 Press (both packed in plastic bags) that I also partially dismantled, complete except for an LCD.

Complete and reactivate the electronics

I will complete the F3, which is missing controls, from the spare parts stock and hope that I can get the electronics working again too.


Replacing the mirror stop damper

I have already seen an intact mirror stop damper for the F3AF that I can replace.

Then I can test it extensively with the two associated AF lenses, as no more sticky damper parts can fall into the mirror box. I also have to clean the stuff off the mirror.


Set with adapted MD-4 motor drive

The F3 PIN registration also has an adapted MD-4 motor drive with a connecting cable. I will check that as well.

The LCD and ADR (Aperture Direct Readout) lighting of the F3 PIN registration works, as does the display.


Spare parts dispenser with LCD, make the mirror mechanism work

The two partially dismantled F3 housings will definitely remain as spare parts dispensers, both still have the valuable LCD installed. However, I cannot test them without a power supply.

The mirror mechanism of one of both is stiff. The front panel needs to be removed to fix it.

I will be able to use my experience with an F3 Press here (position of any washers in the housing and coupling of the shutter and mirror mechanism).


Thorough cleaning

I will clean those housings that are hopefully fit for work again thoroughly where necessary.

Entertaining and definitely educational hours are ahead, to which you are of course warmly invited again

 

[chuckroast]

Have you ever upgraded the LCD illuminator to use a brighter LED than what shipped with camera?

I've owned F3s on- and off since they came out. I bought my current one when it was essentially unused in the box. But I so hate the backlight illumination system. I so want to replace it with some better and get a more reliable switch in there somehow.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

View attachment 368695

Here in Vienna, some F3 and F3 special models have been waiting for care, service and repair for some time.

The respective conditions vary:

• Nikon F3AF: (in the picture top left) Obviously unused, all functions OK, the mirror stop damper and the light seals are sticky and falling apart.
• Nikon F3 Pin Registration: (in the picture top right) Electronics OK, triggers.
• Nikon F3: Winding lever, shutter release button and main switch are missing. The shutter can be pulled with two fingers and is released via the emergency release.
• Two F3 housings that have been dismantled to varying degrees. One of them triggers, but I could not activate the electronics. The other has already been heavily looted.
• An F3 that I dismantled and a Nikon F3 Press (both packed in plastic bags) that I also partially dismantled, complete except for an LCD.

Complete and reactivate the electronics

I will complete the F3, which is missing controls, from the spare parts stock and hope that I can get the electronics working again too.


Replacing the mirror stop damper

I have already seen an intact mirror stop damper for the F3AF that I can replace.

Then I can test it extensively with the two associated AF lenses, as no more sticky damper parts can fall into the mirror box. I also have to clean the stuff off the mirror.


Set with adapted MD-4 motor drive

The F3 PIN registration also has an adapted MD-4 motor drive with a connecting cable. I will check that as well.

View attachment 368694

The LCD and ADR (Aperture Direct Readout) lighting of the F3 PIN registration works, as does the display.


Spare parts dispenser with LCD, make the mirror mechanism work

The two partially dismantled F3 housings will definitely remain as spare parts dispensers, both still have the valuable LCD installed. However, I cannot test them without a power supply.

The mirror mechanism of one of both is stiff. The front panel needs to be removed to fix it.

I will be able to use my experience with an F3 Press here (position of any washers in the housing and coupling of the shutter and mirror mechanism).


Thorough cleaning

I will clean those housings that are hopefully fit for work again thoroughly where necessary.

Entertaining and definitely educational hours are ahead, to which you are of course warmly invited again

My interim report is ready.

If you would like to read it in German now:

https://www.nikon-fotografie.de/community/threads/nikon-f3-und-sondermodelle-pflege-service-und-instandsetzung.308848/

I will post a translation into English here tomorrow.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Have you ever upgraded the LCD illuminator to use a brighter LED than what shipped with camera?

I've owned F3s on- and off since they came out. I bought my current one when it was essentially unused in the box. But I so hate the backlight illumination system. I so want to replace it with some better and get a more reliable switch in there somehow.

It was too early for an LED as lighting on the F3; a tiny light bulb is built in

The problem with flickering and failure of the lighting is due to dirt/oxidation of the contacts. The area is not sealed.

You can remove the switch and clean it there. A dash of electronic cleaner should also help. Then the light is stable again.

See

Nikon F3/T: LCD replaced

A project that has occupied me for years without being able to tackle it - for lack of a replacement display and know-how. Now it's implemented 😀 With my most beautiful F3/T (never used before), I had to watch the LCD display in the viewfinder slowly but steadily disappear. At first, only...

www.photrio.com

You could probably install an LED, the question is whether that won't put too much strain on the battery. @koraks can certainly say something about that.

 

[Mick Fagan]

I'm pulling up a front row seat, and as it will likely be a long sitting, I'll use a cushion!

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I'm pulling up a front row seat, and as it will likely be a long sitting, I'll use a cushion!

And I sit on a wooden chair at work

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Case #1: Nikon F3 without winding lever and main switch

Of the partially dismantled F3s, it seems to me to be the one with the greatest chance of being restored. Also because the shutter can be cocked and released. However, the electronics are not working.

First I take care of


Winding lever and main switch

I took the components belonging to the winding lever from the F3, whose mirror is lame. It is also in a pretty worn-out state. So it’s role now is that of a spare parts carrier. The valuable LCD is still there and hopefully intact.

I get the lever itself from the already disassembled F3 Press, it is in good condition.

Now the series is complete.

Only one washer is missing.

I'll add one from the F3 Press on a whim. Maybe it'll fit.

According to the repair manual, the washer is used to adjust the trigger and should therefore not be necessary for operation - hopefully.

Some of the parts are dirty and there is also some corrosion visible.

The top cover of the F3 also needs a quick cleaning. With the winding lever and main switch removed, there is an opportunity to clean all around.

All parts are cleaned by placing them in undiluted Durgol descaling solution for around 20 minutes. This has proven to be very effective against dirt and corrosion.

In the meantime, I clean the upper deck of the F3 with benzine. This removes greasy dirt and oil residue.

Follow up with some Aqua Purificata. The benzine doesn't remove all the dirt.

The DE-2 viewfinder may become a project of its own.

Fungus can be seen on the underside of the prism glass. Unfortunately, it is on the inside, which means that the viewfinder has to be dismantled for cleaning.

It could also be that the fungus is no longer active and can therefore no longer cause any damage.

I will take a closer look at it later.

Fingerprints definitely do not belong on the glass.

In any case, I am relieved because I am wearing gloves

Bathing time in Durgol is over, I scrub all the parts with a hard toothbrush. This removes any remaining dirt and corrosion.

That looks better now.

Rinse under running water.

Quick drying of moisture residues with the hot air blower.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Almost new.

Everything is clean, installation can begin.

After inserting the main switch, it is secured with a locking ring. I use the spanner wrench to slowly and carefully screw it in.

This is a delicate process, as the grooves on the ring are narrow and the blades of the adjusting key are a bit too wide for the job.

It slips and some of the paint on the ring comes off with it. But it's not a tragedy here, as the winding lever will be above it and the small accident will no longer be visible.

Since the plastic main switch can only be turned with force, I remove it again and apply some Ballistol silicone oil to the inside and bottom of the switch for lubrication.

Better now.

The winding lever is mounted.

The intermediate and end positions are correct, the shutter can be cocked again.

The shutter release is inserted and secured with its cover cap.

The washer is not included because it does not fit.

Done here.


The electronics

With a fresh battery inserted, the F3 does not respond when the shutter button is pressed, the shutter does not operate, and the LCD and ADR (Aperture Direct Readout) lighting do not work.

To rule out contact problems with the power supply, I clean the battery holder, its thread, the thread in the bottom of the camera and the spring contact in the battery compartment with electronics cleaner.

Since the F3 is still electronically dead, I polish the contact surfaces in the battery holder and battery compartment with the hard rubber tip on the small Dremel Stylo for fine work.


Checking Lands

Since that doesn't improve anything, I consult the troubleshooting section in the repair manual.

Common error patterns are described there with check procedures, and at the end a code provides information about the possible cause of the error.

There is a check procedure for „shutter fails to be released“.

To do this, the checking lands on the circuit board, which are built-in contacts for measurements, must be checked with the multimeter. These are voltage and resistance measurements according to the instructions.

In this case, only the base plate needs to be removed, not the two top covers, which would be quite a lot of work.

To make sure that the checking lands are not oxidized and are conducting, I measure their resistance, which is 0 ohms (just a symbolic image here).

That's OK.


Digression

If the checking lands were oxidized, the measurement result would be high-resistance, as no current can flow.

If the measurement result is low-resistance, the checking lands are conducting.

If the measurement result is in between, it could also be that the checking lands are conducting, but there is still oxidation. In this case, the checking lands must be cleaned too.


Is the problem with the battery?

Completing the check procedure reveals that the cause of the error is a non-functional battery.

At first glance, this seems contradictory, as the battery inserted is fresh and was measured by me.

But it could also be an interruption in the power supply in the camera, which is the same as a dead battery. For example, due to a loose cable, a cold solder joint or a short circuit to ground.

Maybe the shutter release is defective or has contact problems.

It has two stages and when pressed, it first switches on the exposure metering system, then the LCD in the viewfinder also displays.

When pressed all the way, the shutter is released.


The MD-4 as an error limiter

To narrow down the problem further, I connect my work MD-4 to the camera, which also supplies the F3 with power. I know that this motor drive works.

The open circuit voltage of the eight AA batteries inserted is 12.15 volts, which should be enough to provide a perfect power supply even under load.

And lo and behold, the F3 comes to life, the LCD suddenly displays and the shutter is released when the shutter button on the motor drive is pressed.

A quick function test shows the F3 to be working perfectly.

Wonderful!

That should make it clear where I have to look for the problem. It is the area around the shutter button in the camera.

To get there, I have to remove the right top cover and expose the shutter button.

We'll continue with that today

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Troubleshooting the electronics of the F3

If you're not familiar with it and therefore don't know the typical problems with this camera electronics, the instructions for check procedures in the repair manual will help.

Individual error patterns are provided with decision diagrams.

Use yes and no to work through the diagrams and carry out the specified measurements:

For this purpose, numbered checking lands are listed, the position of which is indicated on an overview image of the board:

At the end of the procedure, a code is output, the meaning of which is explained in a directory:

Of course, there is no guarantee that this will find an error. But it will definitely give you an idea of where to look.


+++

All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Power supply via 3-volt battery

In order to get suggestions for troubleshooting the problem with the power supply - the F3 is obviously not getting any power from the camera battery - I looked through the repair manual. But I didn't find anything specific there.

So I took off the right top cover and looked at the structure there.

Here is the connection for the winding lever and the main switch on the front.

View from the front.

I checked the accessible connections for voltage to find out whether there was a supply up here or whether the problem was deeper. In fact, I was able to measure around 60 mV here.

This showed that the power supply was probably working respectively the connections in the battery compartment were OK. Which ruled out any nasty disassembly work.

So there had to be something somewhere between the battery and the connection for the shutter release and display that was blocking the flow of current.

I was able to understand how the mechanical main switch worked; metal tongues open and close here. I cleaned it with electronic cleaner and sprayed three sprays into the area behind it where the more complex shutter release switch is located.

I couldn't do more without further disassembly.

One option would have been to remove the connection for the winding lever along with the mechanical frame counter. Then the shutter release switch would be accessible.

But I didn't think that was a good idea, because mechanical transmissions are taking place here and I didn't want to risk the mechanics no longer working here.

So I stopped troubleshooting and reinstalled the top cover on the F3.

Of course it would have been nice to solve the problem, but since the camera works perfectly on the motor frive, I'm happy with it.

Here are two more details:

This is the rotary switch for the shutter speed.

The small lever (arrow) switches the self-timer; it is probably resinous on almost every F3 due to infrequent use and is therefore difficult to operate. To fix this, the switch would have to be dismantled and cleaned.

It could also be that a decaying seal is causing the resistance to rotation.

Here you can see it under the arrow, it closes the rotating ring for the self-timer and is made of foam.

The arrow points to the detent for X (sync speed) with locking, to the left of it the detent for A (automatic).

After installing the right top cover with the winding lever, switches and shutter speed button, I put the F3 on the MD-4 to test it.

Everything was fine.


Replacing the ASA/exposure correction unit

Since I have plenty of spare parts for the F3, I looked at what I could improve.

The release slide for the backdoor lock is bent and the whole unit is pretty worn, but it works.

I decide to exchange it for a new one.

But first I'll replace the partially dented backdoor with a perfect one.

The removed parts of the ASA/exposure correction unit.

This is where the replacement parts are mounted.

First, quickly clean with isopropyl alcohol.

Soldering the three cables for the hot shoe.

There are still remains of a seal on the release slide, which I remove.

The adhesive residue can be dissolved with benzine and then scraped off.

Better now.

The release lever with spring is built in and some grease is placed underneath so that there is less friction when operating.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

The otherwise rather stubborn component of the same name is put on using the circlip pliers.

Completed

With new backdoor.

Clean the outside in places with benzine.

The sticker is no longer nice, so it's being removed.

Soak with isopropyl alcohol, then scrape and clean with alcohol.

Only a memory remains.

Looks better now.


Cleaning viewfinder DE-2

Cleaning foam and brush remove the dirt.

I was very happy that I was wrong.

The fungus was not behind the glass, but on it.

It was completely removed, along with the fingerprints, using Zeiss optics cleaning fluid. No etching marks on the glass.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

From the disassembled F3 Press, focusing screen B comes into the F3.

F3 and MD-4 remain connected - and thus a perfectly functioning combination is available.

Even if the shutter release on the camera does not work.

But it is no longer needed here


+++

All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.

 

[Mick Fagan]

Really well explained with your text and pictures; wonderful.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Really well explained with your text and pictures; wonderful.

Thanks Mick!

Now just have to check the mirror shock absorber for the F3AF and the F3 Pin Registration.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Nikon F3AF: new mirror shock absorber and faulty LCD display

Unused, no signs of wear, only the light seals and the mirror shock absorber have become sticky and disintegrated over the decades.

Since I won't be working with this F3, I'm just replacing the mirror shock absorber today.

This way I can trigger the camera without getting any remains of the shock absorber on the mirror.

Most of the sticky damper can be removed with tweezers.

Isopropyl alcohol will dissolve, but it takes patience, scraping tools, and several cleaning swabs to remove the stuff.

Done, now the replacement can come.

The Micro Tools set includes self-adhesive foam strips in three thicknesses.

At 3.5 millimeters, the thickest strip is right for the mirror stop.

Measure the length of the strip.

Helpful tools

The new mirror shock absorber is installed.

The mirror lock-up shows that the damper is at the correct height. The mirror closes horizontally.


Next we move on to the functional check.

To do this, I put two AAA batteries in the DX-1 viewfinder.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

In the viewfinder I see a nasty surprise that remains even after removing the DX-1: The LCD display is faulty.

I'm prepared for this eventuality, I've just added two F3 LCDs to the spare parts inventory.

Replacing the display should solve the problem.

To do this, I remove the replacement LCD from its holder.

Working with magnifying glasses.

The replacement LCD is inserted and secured with its cover plate.

But unfortunately this LCD also shows the faulty digits from before.

So it can only be the circuit.

I find a suitable error pattern in the repair manual and follow the troubleshooting instructions.

I use the oscilloscope to measure the voltage curve at the LCD contacts in the camera.

The measuring point is the first contact in the top row.

The rectangle curve displayed on the oscilloscope corresponds to the specification.

According to the repair manual, the LCD is still defective - but that is ruled out after the replacement.

And the circuit board that carries the contacts.

But I can't find any fault here.

I can't do anything else, so I'm reassembling the F3AF.

Very sad, because the camera works without the LCD, but in aperture priority mode A you can't see which shutter speeds are running. Exposure adjustment is also not possible in manual mode M.

But I'll keep looking in the repair manual to see if I can find any more information that can help.

Since I had closed the backdoor after removing the rewind crank and the lock cannot be released, I open the backdoor as an emergency measure

To do this, I unscrew the FRE (Functional Resistance Element), which records the aperture setting, the ASA value and the exposure compensation, and lift the hook of the lock.

Not a pleasant day today.

But even electronics are powerless against the ravages of time

 

[4season]

Andreas, have you tried viewing your faulty LCDs through a polarizing filter? While working on a Sony Walkman last year, I discovered that the dim LCD was not due to any failure of the liquid crystals themselves, but of the polarizer that's laminated to the front of the glass - I guess it simply faded. Because when viewed through a polarizing filter, it looked perfect. And had I intended to keep the device, I think I could have restored it simply by installing a new polarizing film.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Andreas, have you tried viewing your faulty LCDs through a polarizing filter? While working on a Sony Walkman last year, I discovered that the dim LCD was not due to any failure of the liquid crystals themselves, but of the polarizer that's laminated to the front of the glass - I guess it simply faded. Because when viewed through a polarizing filter, it looked perfect. And had I intended to keep the device, I think I could have restored it simply by installing a new polarizing film.

Thank you for the tip!

I looked in the repair manual last night and found more LCD error images, but then I fell asleep.

I'll check it right away, but I'm afraid it's the control system, since I can see digits and the replacement LCD shows the same error:

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I am very frustrated because the camera is as good as new and the display was still working a long time ago.

So something must have broken on its own since it was in the cupboard.

But I don't know what it could be because the electronics are very robust and components - apart from capacitors - should not have an expiration date.

I also don't believe in cold solder joints, the circuit board is certainly not hand-soldered and the error would have become apparent earlier.

 

[4season]

On my F3, someone attempted a nearby repair using cyanoacrylate adhesive, and the vapors apparently contaminated the LCD interconnect, and the display was showing gibberish. I was able to restore proper operation by wiping down the electrical contacts and the rubbery elastomer strip with isopropyl alcohol. I was really impressed to see that Nikon's elastomer strips contained gold particles!

 

[Andreas Thaler]

This is the complete circuit board of the Nikon F3:

It is flexible and built into the camera:

A large number of measuring points for tests (checking lands) are integrated, some of which can be reached after removing the base plate. The repair manual contains troubleshooting instructions that refer to these measuring points:

In order to examine the circuit board completely, it would have to be removed.

But then it would no longer be connected to the peripherals and I would not be able to determine, for example, whether the camera is triggering again or whether plausible exposure times are now displayed, etc.

That is why I think electronic troubleshooting in such cameras is pretty hopeless.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

On my F3, someone attempted a nearby repair using cyanoacrylate adhesive, and the vapors apparently contaminated the LCD interconnect, and the display was showing gibberish. I was able to restore proper operation by wiping down the electrical contacts and the rubbery elastomer strip with isopropyl alcohol. I was really impressed to see that Nikon's elastomer strips contained gold particles!

I cleaned the LCD contacts on the circuit board and also the conductive rubbers with isopropyl alcohol. I also treated the contacts with fine sandpaper. The oscilloscope showed the same voltage curve on all contacts, so they should be OK.

The replacement LCD also shows the same incorrect digits.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I can't imagine that Nikon's service points would have started troubleshooting individual electronics problems. The entire circuit board was probably replaced.

But then what are all the checking lands for?

And what are the troubleshooting instructions for electronics in the repair manual for?

 

[Andreas Thaler]

But despite all the setbacks and problems, we must not stop taking care of these wonderful cameras. Successful repairs are always possible!

 

[Andreas Thaler]

As far as the F3AF is concerned, I console myself with the fact that the DX-1 viewfinder can also be used on the other F3 variants. It then shows the focus point electronically. And the two AF lenses for the F3AF are also compatible