"There is only you and your camera. The limitations in your photography are in yourself, for what we see is what we are." -- Ernst Haas.
Just to be sure, when you trip the backup mechanical release lever, the film advances? Or do you mean after you manually tripped this, you can now advance the film? If the latter then that's a good sign and putting in a good battery should do the trick.
I used the tiny lever (circles in the attachment) to manually advance the film. I read this online. Is this a good sign?
How do I manually trip it? I thought this was what it meant. Sorry, I’m a bit rusty on the terminologies.
You can download the F3 manual from Mike Butkus's site. I'd recommend reading it, as the camera's action isn't totally intuitive.
I bought an F3 a couple of weeks ago, knowing that it would come with issues. One way or another I have managed to put a couple of rolls through it; but its electrics (not its electronics) are a bit unreliable and it will go off to be serviced. I hope that purchase price plus repair costs will still look reasonable: it does produce lovely negatives.
Happy New Year and good luck with your own F3.
Yes, that's how you manually trip it. The question behind that was, is the advance lever now freed to move? If so, leave it be until you can get batteries into it (I've read that SR44 are preferable to LR44).
I used the tiny lever (circles in the attachment) to manually advance the film. I read this online. Is this a good sign?
How do I manually trip it? I thought this was what it meant. Sorry, I’m a bit rusty on the terminologies.
How much to have the F3 CLA?
It depends on what needs to be done, parts needed and who does the work. Usually repair people with only repair or adjust what is needed and test the rest.
That lens looks like it might be the 55mm f/2.8 Micro Nikkor?
If it is, then as it has been sitting literally for years, it will be quite stiff; really stiff.
It is winter where you are, the cold doesn't help those lenses. This lens has very long helices and you need to twist and twist, then twist some more to focus. As a result the lubrication with none usage, does gum up somewhat. Another aspect of the 55mm Micro Nikkor is that the lubrication can and does sometimes go to water, so to speak, and when it does it will often spill onto the aperture blades.
I suggest that you place the lens near something warm, or into a warm spot and let it get warmish; this may help.
It is summertime here and I used my Micro Nikkor last week after it sitting around for a couple of years. It was as stiff as anything, so I placed it in the sunlight for an hour and with an ambient temperature of 30ºC it was all of a sudden back to normal.
I meant just CLA that is disassemble the camera, clean and lube then adjust the camera meter and shutter to specs. Assume no parts are needed. Mainly the labor only. I Nikon does it they would have to replace the leatherette but in this case the leatherette has to be removed carefully and reused.
The camera may need to be looked at by a camera repair person and at most need a CLA [Clean, Lubrication and Adjust] which in not unusual for cameras that have not been used for a while.
The F3 has no known weak points apart from the LCD in the viewfinder. The LCD may fade or individual digits may fail. The cause is probably corrosion of the LCD contacts.
LCDs are no longer available as spare parts, but a display block from a donor F3 can be used.
The usual answer from the workshops is „no spare parts“, then you just do it yourself, it’s not too difficult.
The reason I say this is because an LCD that no longer works is a death sentence for the camera, at least it has very limited use. That doesn't have to be the case
Nikon F3/T: LCD replaced
A project that has occupied me for years without being able to tackle it - for lack of a replacement display and know-how. Now it's implemented 😀 With my most beautiful F3/T (never used before), I had to watch the LCD display in the viewfinder slowly but steadily disappear. At first, only...www.photrio.com
Well if the LCD doesn't work you would lose quite a bit of function but you can still use it. Auto mode may work perfectly although you wouldn't know which shutter speed the camera is on. Or you can use the camera manually without meter.
Yes, that's how you manually trip it. The question behind that was, is the advance lever now freed to move? If so, leave it be until you can get batteries into it (I've read that SR44 are preferable to LR44).
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?