Nikon F3: Ending 2023 With A Comeback To Analog Photography.

[Yugtha]

Visiting my husband's family on Christmas took an unexpected turn. It was December 30th and we were 30 minutes away from leaving to catch our train back home. Out of a series of conversations, I randomly mentioned how much I missed analog photography. It had been two years since I practiced reason being, after graduating college in 2021, I didn't feel like I was in a good enough place financially to buy my own camera. It was at that moment that my husband's mom went back in and came back with a beautiful-looking Nikon F3, still in great condition. It belonged to her father, who equally treasured analog photography and had passed away over a decade ago. This became the best Christmas present I could have received.

On our three-hour ride back home, I inspected this camera. While in college, I had actively shot on a Nikon F3 (photography was one of my majors). Other than a few scratches on the body from regular wear and tear, and understandably, dead batteries, the body seems to be in good shape. I compared the usage to my past experience with the other F3.


A few things I noticed:

1. There is no battery display - batteries need to be changed. There is no corrosion or damage in this area as far as the eyes can see.

2. The advance lever is very hard to use (maybe from being idle for years) and the camera shutter is not firing. I tried the backup lever and this advanced my film.

3. Everything else is moving just fine.


I am hoping a simple battery change will bring it back to life and shooting again...


4. 2024 New Year resolution: possibly set up a temporary/at-home dark room.


I welcome advice and more knowledge about this camera. I also downloaded the Camera Manual and have been reading it to brush up on my knowledge. Feel free to let me know if there's anything else I should check for. I will write an update hopefully later today when I buy two new 1.5 V batteries for it.

"There is only you and your camera. The limitations in your photography are in yourself, for what we see is what we are." -- Ernst Haas.

 

[Les Sarile]

Just to be sure, when you trip the backup mechanical release lever, the film advances? Or do you mean after you manually tripped this, you can now advance the film? If the latter then that's a good sign and putting in a good battery should do the trick.

 

[Yugtha]

Just to be sure, when you trip the backup mechanical release lever, the film advances? Or do you mean after you manually tripped this, you can now advance the film? If the latter then that's a good sign and putting in a good battery should do the trick.

I used the tiny lever (circles in the attachment) to manually advance the film. I read this online. Is this a good sign?

How do I manually trip it? I thought this was what it meant. Sorry, I’m a bit rusty on the terminologies.

 

[Ballinderry-Michael]

You can download the F3 manual from Mike Butkus's site. I'd recommend reading it, as the camera's action isn't totally intuitive.

I bought an F3 a couple of weeks ago, knowing that it would come with issues. One way or another I have managed to put a couple of rolls through it; but its electrics (not its electronics) are a bit unreliable and it will go off to be serviced. I hope that purchase price plus repair costs will still look reasonable: it does produce lovely negatives.

Happy New Year and good luck with your own F3.

 

[Ballinderry-Michael]

I used the tiny lever (circles in the attachment) to manually advance the film. I read this online. Is this a good sign?

How do I manually trip it? I thought this was what it meant. Sorry, I’m a bit rusty on the terminologies.

Yes, that's how you manually trip it. The question behind that was, is the advance lever now freed to move? If so, leave it be until you can get batteries into it (I've read that SR44 are preferable to LR44).

 

[Yugtha]

You can download the F3 manual from Mike Butkus's site. I'd recommend reading it, as the camera's action isn't totally intuitive.

I bought an F3 a couple of weeks ago, knowing that it would come with issues. One way or another I have managed to put a couple of rolls through it; but its electrics (not its electronics) are a bit unreliable and it will go off to be serviced. I hope that purchase price plus repair costs will still look reasonable: it does produce lovely negatives.

Happy New Year and good luck with your own F3.

I downloaded the manual as well from Nikon. I’ve been reading it as I wait to get some new batteries. Happy new year!

 

[Yugtha]

Yes, that's how you manually trip it. The question behind that was, is the advance lever now freed to move? If so, leave it be until you can get batteries into it (I've read that SR44 are preferable to LR44).

Thank you for clarifying! Yes, it is. I have been able to move the advance lever since doing this.

It took a little bit more pressure than usual (probably from sitting idle and dusty for a decade). I’m going to wait for the new batteries before trying to move anything else.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Welcome to Photrio and back to film photography.

The camera may need to be looked at by a camera repair person and at most need a CLA [Clean, Lubrication and Adjust] which in not unusual for cameras that have not been used for a while.

Enjoy and shoot more film.

 

[Les Sarile]

I used the tiny lever (circles in the attachment) to manually advance the film. I read this online. Is this a good sign?

How do I manually trip it? I thought this was what it meant. Sorry, I’m a bit rusty on the terminologies.

Your terminologies are correct. I just wasn't sure about the sequence but it sounds like you should have a good working - as well as good looking, camera that is capable of giving you analog photography joy!

 

[Chan Tran]

How much to have the F3 CLA?

 

[Sirius Glass]

How much to have the F3 CLA?

It depends on what needs to be done, parts needed and who does the work. Usually repair people with only repair or adjust what is needed and test the rest.

 

[Yugtha]

Battery Update: I have replaced the batteries and was able to turn the camera on and see the LCD Exposure Info. Yay to this.

The advance lever and the shutter are now firing! The ring around the power switch seemed to be cracked and I think needs to be replaced. It seems to be on when it is supposed to be off.

However, I do think that I need a new lens since I can't get the focus ring to move. But at least, I know that this can easily be replaced. Thoughts?

I am really happy though at how well it is working so far. When I can afford to eventually. I will get a camera repair person to take a look at it and do a CLA as has been recommended.

 

[Chan Tran]

It depends on what needs to be done, parts needed and who does the work. Usually repair people with only repair or adjust what is needed and test the rest.

I meant just CLA that is disassemble the camera, clean and lube then adjust the camera meter and shutter to specs. Assume no parts are needed. Mainly the labor only. I Nikon does it they would have to replace the leatherette but in this case the leatherette has to be removed carefully and reused.

 

[Mick Fagan]

That lens looks like it might be the 55mm f/2.8 Micro Nikkor?

If it is, then as it has been sitting literally for years, it will be quite stiff; really stiff.

It is winter where you are, the cold doesn't help those lenses. This lens has very long helices and you need to twist and twist, then twist some more to focus. As a result the lubrication with none usage, does gum up somewhat. Another aspect of the 55mm Micro Nikkor is that the lubrication can and does sometimes go to water, so to speak, and when it does it will often spill onto the aperture blades.

I suggest that you place the lens near something warm, or into a warm spot and let it get warmish; this may help.

It is summertime here and I used my Micro Nikkor last week after it sitting around for a couple of years. It was as stiff as anything, so I placed it in the sunlight for an hour and with an ambient temperature of 30ºC it was all of a sudden back to normal.

 

[Mick Fagan]

I forgot, welcome to Photrio.

 

[Yugtha]

That lens looks like it might be the 55mm f/2.8 Micro Nikkor?

If it is, then as it has been sitting literally for years, it will be quite stiff; really stiff.

It is winter where you are, the cold doesn't help those lenses. This lens has very long helices and you need to twist and twist, then twist some more to focus. As a result the lubrication with none usage, does gum up somewhat. Another aspect of the 55mm Micro Nikkor is that the lubrication can and does sometimes go to water, so to speak, and when it does it will often spill onto the aperture blades.

I suggest that you place the lens near something warm, or into a warm spot and let it get warmish; this may help.

It is summertime here and I used my Micro Nikkor last week after it sitting around for a couple of years. It was as stiff as anything, so I placed it in the sunlight for an hour and with an ambient temperature of 30ºC it was all of a sudden back to normal.

Thank you, Nick, for the welcome, and thank you for the very helpful advice on these lenses.

I will put it close to a heater to see if it can help loosen it up. I can move the aperture blade on it. I hope the focus lens will loosen up.

In the meantime, I had another lens (AF Nikkor 35-80mm) that I put on the camera so I could use it.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I meant just CLA that is disassemble the camera, clean and lube then adjust the camera meter and shutter to specs. Assume no parts are needed. Mainly the labor only. I Nikon does it they would have to replace the leatherette but in this case the leatherette has to be removed carefully and reused.

A CLA would not change the leatherette. The repair person would contact you with an estimate and get permission first.

 

[Thesecondone]

This past year ive come extremely close to buying this camera several times, most needed some sort of minor work and the last on was a hp that was just cla’d for 300. I passed on them because id like to get a camera i really had my eye on before a f3 but they are definitely on the list.

 

[Kino]

@Yugtha

I purchased a F3 about 2 years ago that was in almost exactly the same condition; the cosmetics were good, the meter worked, but the film advance was jammed.

Typically, I tend to work on the broken cameras I purchase, but I really wanted to shoot quickly with this one, so I took the camera to Pro Camera in Charlottesville, Virginia.

Repair Coming Soon | Pro Camera - Charlottesville, VA

www.procamera.us

From what I remember, the repair was $175 with tax and the camera has been trouble free since.

You can think of it this way; buy a "mintish" F3 from an unknown seller (even an known seller) for upwards of $300 USD and possibly have problems in 6 months to a year and still have to pay to have it CLA'd.

Conversely, you can send in your existing camera (with the associated memories and history) and spend the money on a CLA and know it should continue to be serviceable for years to come.

It's an investment, but a good investment.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

The camera may need to be looked at by a camera repair person and at most need a CLA [Clean, Lubrication and Adjust] which in not unusual for cameras that have not been used for a while.

My experience with cameras of this generation is that they do not need service unless they show faults or have been stored in damp/high temperatures.

The often recommended CLA does not always have to be used, which also saves costs.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

The F3 has no known weak points apart from the LCD in the viewfinder. The LCD may fade or individual digits may fail. The cause is probably corrosion of the LCD contacts.

LCDs are no longer available as spare parts, but a display block from a donor F3 can be used.

The usual answer from the workshops is „no spare parts“, then you just do it yourself, it’s not too difficult.

The reason I say this is because an LCD that no longer works is a death sentence for the camera, at least it has very limited use. That doesn't have to be the case

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[Daniela]

What an awesome way to end 2023 and begin 2024!
You've already received plenty of info, so I'll just wish you a year full of analog black and white beauty! (Some color too, if you must... )

 

[Chan Tran]

The F3 has no known weak points apart from the LCD in the viewfinder. The LCD may fade or individual digits may fail. The cause is probably corrosion of the LCD contacts.

LCDs are no longer available as spare parts, but a display block from a donor F3 can be used.

The usual answer from the workshops is „no spare parts“, then you just do it yourself, it’s not too difficult.

The reason I say this is because an LCD that no longer works is a death sentence for the camera, at least it has very limited use. That doesn't have to be the case

Nikon F3/T: LCD replaced

A project that has occupied me for years without being able to tackle it - for lack of a replacement display and know-how. Now it's implemented 😀 With my most beautiful F3/T (never used before), I had to watch the LCD display in the viewfinder slowly but steadily disappear. At first, only...

www.photrio.com

Well if the LCD doesn't work you would lose quite a bit of function but you can still use it. Auto mode may work perfectly although you wouldn't know which shutter speed the camera is on. Or you can use the camera manually without meter.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Well if the LCD doesn't work you would lose quite a bit of function but you can still use it. Auto mode may work perfectly although you wouldn't know which shutter speed the camera is on. Or you can use the camera manually without meter.

Yes, but you then have no/no complete control over the exposure times. And controlling an SLR with a handheld exposure meter requires a particularly high level of motivation

 

[chuckroast]

Yes, that's how you manually trip it. The question behind that was, is the advance lever now freed to move? If so, leave it be until you can get batteries into it (I've read that SR44 are preferable to LR44).

Always prefer silver oxide (SR44) batteries where they are available, over alkaline (LR44) for cameras and meters. Alkalines loose voltage over time and will slowly begin to give you incrementally greater metering errors. Silver Oxide hold their voltage steady until they are ready to fail, then fail all at once, so you know right away the battery needs replacing.