DREW WILEY
Member
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2011
- Messages
- 13,640
- Format
- 8x10 Format
Fujiflex Supergloss is better than Cibachrome ever was. But it only comes in big expensive rolls, and takes patience to acquire. It's much easier to handle, doesn't have the static or surface fragility issues of Ciba, has much better hue accuracy, and can be processed in ordinary RA4 chem. Of course, it's geared to color negatives, not chromes, so you either have to generate film internegatives from your chromes (an advanced skill), or else have the positive image converted after scanning to match the output parameters of a commercial laser printer.
Kodachrome did come out nice on Ciba; but except for a very brief season of 120 roll film, it was only available in 35mm. I mainly worked with Ektachrome and Fujichrome sheet films, but the clue with any of them was to master masking. Masking was not only for sake of taming overall contrast, but also necessary for correction of color repro errors, if one knew how to do both with a mask (or masks).
And when you're into printmaking, the "best" film is the one which can be best tailored to your specific print output medium. People loved Velvia atop a lightbox, but it was hard to turn into a good print due to the extreme contrast. I often had to generate .90 DMax contrast masks for Velvia - that's 3 stops extra to what was already a very slow printing medium (Ciba). With color neg film and RA4 media, I only occasionally even need to mask, and then it's more like .30 DMax - a single stop extra to an otherwise very fast printing paper.
There are no inkjet papers that even remotely resemble Cibachrome or Fuji Supergloss. That's because inkjet papers are paper, and not polyester. There's also the distinction between what is micro-spray-painted using tiny nozzles versus the extreme detail capacity of a polyester base comparable to sheet film itself. Direct optical enlarging with exceptional lenses will provide the most detail, if it's there in the original to begin with; but in the right hands, a drum scan and commercial laser output can come close.
Cost is another consideration. Already labs around here are jacking up prices due to paranoia over impending tariffs. Fuji papers come from the EU; Fujiflex still comes from Japan.
Kodachrome did come out nice on Ciba; but except for a very brief season of 120 roll film, it was only available in 35mm. I mainly worked with Ektachrome and Fujichrome sheet films, but the clue with any of them was to master masking. Masking was not only for sake of taming overall contrast, but also necessary for correction of color repro errors, if one knew how to do both with a mask (or masks).
And when you're into printmaking, the "best" film is the one which can be best tailored to your specific print output medium. People loved Velvia atop a lightbox, but it was hard to turn into a good print due to the extreme contrast. I often had to generate .90 DMax contrast masks for Velvia - that's 3 stops extra to what was already a very slow printing medium (Ciba). With color neg film and RA4 media, I only occasionally even need to mask, and then it's more like .30 DMax - a single stop extra to an otherwise very fast printing paper.
There are no inkjet papers that even remotely resemble Cibachrome or Fuji Supergloss. That's because inkjet papers are paper, and not polyester. There's also the distinction between what is micro-spray-painted using tiny nozzles versus the extreme detail capacity of a polyester base comparable to sheet film itself. Direct optical enlarging with exceptional lenses will provide the most detail, if it's there in the original to begin with; but in the right hands, a drum scan and commercial laser output can come close.
Cost is another consideration. Already labs around here are jacking up prices due to paranoia over impending tariffs. Fuji papers come from the EU; Fujiflex still comes from Japan.
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