Pyro has many types generally personally i find pyro works great in stand or hand development rather then rotatIon.
I've used in particular pyrocat HD in both rotary and manual development. It's a dependable developer that just always works in my experience. What rotary development may/will not give you, is the emphasized edge effects that you can get with minimal agitation - but I doubt you'd ever be able to see the difference in terms of edge effects/acutance between constant agitation and, say, once per 30 or 60 seconds. IME things start to become visible once you have intervals of several minutes between agitation cycles. But that doesn't necessarily take a pyro developer; the same will be true for e.g. rodinal.
The main concern with pyro vs. rotary development has historically been the propensity of pyro developers to oxidize rapidly and thus leave a fairly dense stain all over the film. For enlargement, this generally doesn't hurt, necessarily, although it's also not really a benefit in any way. Those who have concerns about the useful lifetime of the developer may choose to renew the developer halfway development; I think
@Carnie Bob does this with PMK Pyro. Maybe he can comment.
I agree with the notion 'what works for you' etc; we all have our preferences and one approach isn't necessarily better than another. Personally I've done a lot of rotary as well as manual development; my inclination towards the latter at this point is mostly laziness; not wanting to drag the Jobo from its storage space, fill it up, drain & let dry etc. For 35mm B&W I also currently prefer manual agitation with 3-minute intervals which I think (it's more a hunch than an objective observation) gives nice acutance on films like HP5+, Double-X and Fomapan 200.
Thanks a lot for great insights into this topic, I've decided to not use Jobo processor for B&W and rather continue my old trusty method. You've all helped me a lot!
Great; I'm glad to hear the latter, regardless of which option you ultimately go with!