Post your recent Holga 120N shots here~!

[Jeremy Mudd]

i would like to request that members post more information about using their Holga cameras Mainly how long their exposures are at the time the image was taken. This would help me with my set up, But time is running short as I'll sending my first 4 rolls to the Lab this Fri.

I try to post mine when I can. Most of the time I do keep a log and can refer to it when posting, but sometimes I am posting from somewhere where the log isn't handy. And sometimes I forget to bring the log so I have to go off of memory.

That said, like I say in the photography group that I manage on Facebook - settings are nice to know but really are mostly arbitrary since light conditions are always changing. What works for me on one day with a specific film may not work as well for someone else on another day with the same or different film.

Jeremy

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

Certainly everyone has their own opinion. I have no problem with creating images with a Holga camera.

Oh, absolutely. My suggestion to mount the Holga's lens to an MF SLR would be to have a wide and reliable range of shutter speeds and to be able to focus accurately. I've noticed that most Holga shots lose it because focusing is such a hit or miss affair.

I have an Empire Baby camera - makes a Holga seem like a Nikon F6 - but the shutter is so unreliable, either not opening or staying stuck open, the film not winding on, and the camera shattering in my hands, that I want to mount it's spectacularly bad lens in a Nikon F helicoid.

The charms (?) of a Holga are its limitations. But, if my goal is to create the image I want, the charm be damned, then the limitations stop being a blessing.

 

[Jeremy Mudd]

The charms (?) of a Holga are its limitations. But, if my goal is to create the image I want, the charm be damned, then the limitations stop being a blessing.

I totally agree with that. That's why I try to eliminate all of the problems, trying to leave only what I consider to be the "charm" of the lens. That means going the extra mile to ensure the shutter works correctly, any light leaks are sealed/fixed, and I've tested focal ranges with ground glass on the back to ensure I know what each icon really is. That and using an add-on cable release and a filter holder means I can create *mostly* what I envision with it - without those other "charms" that I definitely wouldn't want.

I know some people like light leaks, scratches, dust, etc on their negs. I do not. To me "Lo-Fi" doesn't mean crap work.

Jeremy

 

[Auer]

I prefer to use Holga lenses with SLR bodies, Film and Digital. To me that's all the charm without the.....other stuff..


City Frame-209
by Eric Auer, on Flickr

 

[Jeremy Mudd]

View attachment 292195

I prefer to use Holga lenses with SLR bodies, Film and Digital. To me that's all the charm without the.....other stuff..


City Frame-209
by Eric Auer, on Flickr

Nice image. Except, that was shot on digital and this forum area is for analog images only.





Jeremy

 

[Auer]

View attachment 292195

Nice image. Except, that was shot on digital and this forum area is for analog images only.





Jeremy

Sorry 'bout that, I really couldnt tell the difference.

 

[awty]

You can just use a Holga app, dont even need a lens.

Personally I like to avoid being like all the rest.
4.5 mask, orange filter, bulb handheld and film processed in a winding tank.

Do you like the way you are by Paul Fitz, on Flickr

 

[MattKing]

Nice image. Except, that was shot on digital and this forum area is for analog images only.
Jeremy

Sorry 'bout that, I really couldnt tell the difference.

I'll leave it there, accept your apology, and remind you not to do that again .

 

[David Lingham]

Holga 120n HP5 ID11 1+1. Split toned Ilford Classic.

 

[John Phive]

Finally, after months of procrastination and waiting, had the 4 or 11 rolls sent to the lab.

 

[Jeremy Mudd]

Here's another Holga image to keep the thread going.

This is a double exposure - the first shot is an iconic bell tower in Dayton, Ohio. I shot it with half of a Holga lens cap on the bottom so there was no exposure there. The second shot was of corn in a field in the Spring Valley area, with the half cap on the top to keep the bell tower from being exposed.

I call it "Tower of the Corn", which is much less scary than Children of the Corn.

Happy New Year!

Jeremy

 

[Sirius Glass]

One of the best double exposure composition made with an inexpensive camera that I have seen.

 

[Jeremy Mudd]

One of the best double exposure composition made with an inexpensive camera that I have seen.

Thanks!

Jeremy

 

[Steve@f8]

Thanks!

Jeremy

I’d go further and say it’s one of the best double exposures full time.

 

[MattKing]

Finally, after months of procrastination and waiting, had the 4 or 11 rolls sent to the lab.
View attachment 294368

Glad you got this developed.

 

[John Phive]

@MattKing the Vine, tree, root images has to be on of the best and clearest images from this little camera. There are other within that lot of 4 rolls but none like this one. I must have been at the right angle and distance on that day. I've just finished creating a shipping label for 4 of the 6 rolls left. But due to the snow today, I'm not sure when we'll actually be able to mail the se 4 rolls. I've notified the lab that the film is on it's way. What to expect with these rolls? I know for one, the first roll could have a nice photo from harpers ferry. as I was crossing the bridge during a cloud break. A sun beam was shinny down on the cliffs beside the river. Another image we're excited about seeing is one taken while at the out banks. We met a woman walking the beach with a long flowing black dress and I asked her to pose for me. it was sunset and with a timed exposure, I hope to see some waves crashing by her feet as well as the fluttering of her dress. give me and the lab a couple of weeks and we should have something to show for it.

 

[John Phive]

Here's another images from those first four rolls of film developed 2 weeks ago. I'm fond of all these images because they tell me several things I'm doing wrong as well as those things I'm doing right. I'm just really surprised that a 20 sec exposure worked for these images.

Image was captured with a modified Holga 120N, then later image was transferred to digital for online display purposes only with a Canon M6, Vintage velbon tripod and a small light box. Taking images like this has made me rethink how I should take photos next time. Include a model or small subject within the images, long exposures with movement etc.

 

[Timmyjoe]

Tried to do a creative focus on the tree in front, but the separation wasn't as dramatic as I had hoped.

Best,
-Tim

 

[Timmyjoe]

I did find the Holga 120N did a decent job when used with a flash:

Best,
-Tim

 

[Timmyjoe]

The biggest issue I had with the Holga, and now have the same issue with a Diana F+, is that the numbers printed on the backing paper of the current 120 film are printed so lightly, it's really hard to read frame numbers when you are advancing the film. Maybe it's my aging eyes, but I think the printing of film numbers is no longer a priority for film manufacturers as many 120 camera advance the film automatically. That takes the fun out of shooting Holga's and Diana's for me.

Best,
-Tim

 

[John Phive]

Have the same issue with the Holga 120N so after shooting, I have to angle the camera's rear cover to the light and advance the film. But you got to have your glasses on for sure. Once or twice I had to that the wife read the numbers for me just to make sure.

 

[Auer]

One of the best double exposure composition made with an inexpensive camera that I have seen.

I agree. Great image.

 

[Jeremy Mudd]

While I'm on a roll posting double exposures....

Here's one from this past summer. Holga 120N on Portra 400. Vivitar variable lens cap with 1/2 the image covered. Top image first with bottom covered, then flipped camera upside down and covered the bottom to take the second image.

The Vivitar lens cap caused a lot of vignetting - since then I've stopped using it and just cut a Holga lens cap in half to do the same thing.

Jeremy

 

[Jonno85uk]

The biggest issue I had with the Holga, and now have the same issue with a Diana F+, is that the numbers printed on the backing paper of the current 120 film are printed so lightly, it's really hard to read frame numbers when you are advancing the film. Maybe it's my aging eyes, but I think the printing of film numbers is no longer a priority for film manufacturers as many 120 camera advance the film automatically. That takes the fun out of shooting Holga's and Diana's for me.

Best,
-Tim

Have you tried non-ilford films? I find it's just ilford (and Acros 2) that have faint paper markings.

 

[MattKing]

Have you tried non-ilford films? I find it's just ilford (and Acros 2) that have faint paper markings.

Kodak films as well now - although my understanding is that one of the projects that has been delayed because of the current circumstances is an attempt to improve the readability on the new Kodak backing paper.