Even a service manual cannot replace this first-hand experience.
Well Said
The service manuals ONLY tell where the parts should locate and how it should be operated. But it never told how the flaws were made . So in each repair one could definitely learn something new from it .
Speaking of practicing cameras, I prefer to start with camera that has no meters inside.
SLR : Pentax S1/2/3/SV models M42 camera.
They are the easiest SLR models that could come cheap and learn the most from it . Without meters so one can focus on how the shutter and mirror box operated. Most parts are hold be screws and interacted by wheels + lever gears which are nothing you could miss.
Later Spotmatic models (except F) is actually based on them , just added the metering with some parts changed. One thing is , as far as I could recall, some production has the metering needle rest at the middle while some would rest at the bottom. It is important to understand from this long-production variations .
If one prefer to being from Spotmatic , The SL model is almost suggested.
Fixed lens RF : Konica Auto S
Japanese had made lots of small RF for domestic market during the 1960s .They are cheap but have the quality there and the stuff there.
Auto-S is simple. After removing the front plastic leatherette and 4 screws , you can take off the lens/shutter unit and begin to work. The RF is adjustable from opening the top. Nothing special at the bottom other than the battery compartment. It is a very simple RF camera with CdS meter that assist.
Earlier days some people would suggest Kodak Retina IIIc or IIc. They were actually ok , but many failed to notice the importance of having right gear positioning and orders. The known "7" -like advancing saw that under the meter (IIIc model) is mostly worn because the previous user/ technician has forced to advance without noticing the correct positioning of it and the brass wheel that tensioning the shutter next to the shutter unit.
TLR: Chinese Seagull or earlier Japanese TLR
Most of them are clone of older Rolleiflex Automat models or Rolleicords. The mechanics are almost similar in knob / lever winded.
What one can learn from TLR are the focusing mech, film transports and the leaf shutter. Since 120 film has not holes like 135, the counter is highly depended on the friction from film's back paper passing through or by it. The old dirts or dried grease/oil are likely the source that causing poor spacing.
