I can only imagine the weight of the camera with the 180, prism and digital back. Tripod only!
I can only imagine the weight of the camera with the 180, prism and digital back. Tripod only!Yes, I use mine with the WLF all the time even though I normally preferred a 45 degree prism. Mostly because the AF is reliable and because the weight is a LOT less. A friend who has one and shoots a lot of 645 uses the 90 degree prism.
I am using the 80/2.8 Xenotar AFD, 50/2.8 Super-Angulon AFD, and manual PQ 180/2.8 (plus the 1.4x extender). I use it always with film in 6x6, but I have shot digital with it. I would consider a Credo 60 back for it if I got it for really cheap, but I don't think it would be better than Ektachrome personally.
I can only imagine the weight of the camera with the 180, prism and digital back. Tripod only!
Yes, I use mine with the WLF all the time even though I normally preferred a 45 degree prism. Mostly because the AF is reliable and because the weight is a LOT less. A friend who has one and shoots a lot of 645 uses the 90 degree prism..
I was referring to the fact a 180mm/Body/Prism/Digital Back must weigh a ton. The 180 weighs 3X the 80mmAF, the prism must weigh at least as much as the body and depending on the digital back (some have their own battery), the whole kit couldn't be hand-held no matter the shutter speed. On a separate note, I really appreciate the AF 80mm and even the focus confirmation using manual lenses, especially given medium format lenses have shallower focus.There's a cute trick one can use: the mirror lock up button is right on the handle, easy to use. With the digital back, you compose the shot, lock up the mirror, bang three quick shots off (leaf shutter only); one will be pretty sharp. I've used this handholding 80mm at 1/40 sec, and with a monopod, even to 1/20. You have to practice your breathing a bit tho too!
I was referring to the fact a 180mm/Body/Prism/Digital Back must weigh a ton. The 180 weighs 3X the 80mmAF, the prism must weigh at least as much as the body and depending on the digital back (some have their own battery), the whole kit couldn't be hand-held no matter the shutter speed. On a separate note, I really appreciate the AF 80mm and even the focus confirmation using manual lenses, especially given medium format lenses have shallower focus.
I'm loving the 80AFD. For a while (before I got the Hy6 and was using the 6008i) I considered finding an 80 2.0, thinking it would be easier to focus because it is brighter. Boy, are they expensive!I know it should be the same as the AF but I've found the confirmation mode a little iffy. It was not always accurate with the 80/2 I had for a while. However, I found the 80/2.8 AFD to be SO much of a better lens that the 2.0 had to go. Plus unlike the Contax 80/2, focusing the Rollei 80/2 takes approximately 5 years per shot. I have no idea what made these lens makers opt for extremely long helicals.
There's a 110mm for sale on eBay now, 'only' € 5000 or US$ 6000.
https://www.ebay.nl/itm/Rollei-Zeis...300855?hash=item3d664c9877:g:ljwAAOSwVK9bCBCU
Film, paper, travel, model fees...What's money where photography is concerned?
I have no idea what made these lens makers opt for extremely long helicals.
I think this was directed toward me, and my commenbts about ease of focus were with my eye and the focus screen image. In terms of the autofocus, I did calibrate my single AF lens, it is -15.Did you adjust the focus offset for the different lenses? Each one needs to be dialed in.
I think this was directed toward me, and my commenbts about ease of focus were with my eye and the focus screen image. In terms of the autofocus, I did calibrate my single AF lens, it is -15.
From what I can tell calibration only works with AF, you can't calibrate a manual lens. I haven't attempted it yet, but it seems like you would make adjustment according to the viewfinder image vs the AF, maybe using a focus target. I know there is a readout for the AF focus distance in one of the screens displayed on the grip.Are you testing the calibration via analysis of negs or with a digital back/ other means of checking the offset at the film plane - and does it make a significant difference in perceived sharpness on film? I think this must make the Hy6 essentially the only film camera with this potentially really useful feature.
You can set the offset for manual lenses as well - it adjusts the focus confirmation set point and is very helpful. The only difficulty I had was with the 300 APO, where its near focus setting wasn't the same as the far focus. But in general, it is used for all my manual lenses and the 80 AF. I use a digital back, and check the offset typically by tethering or chimping.
No AF problems with my Hy6 mod 1 - but its firmware was updated by the factory, so maybe that helped.
And yes, the 60 Curtagon is stellar, have used it since the 1990s. So too is the 90 (since sold), and the 150 4.5 is something special. They all have their charms.
Yes, what I meant was, anything for photography!Film, paper, travel, model fees...
After living quite frugal for six decades I purchased the camera brand new from the USA dealer. It was expensive, but a once-in-a-lifetime purchase. Though I only got a body and back. No lens.
I had been following the Rollei USA website and when they got a new batch of 2020 builds I was glad to see Rolleiflex has not gone out of business again, and bought it right away.
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