Thanks, interesting, then I'll use the thin cutters for fine work. I'm excited.
There are some small cutters for the Dremel that are shaped to be suitable for milling away screw heads. Unfortunately, they fail on steel screws.
Drilling PCB's (RF4 material) and sometimes softer metals such as aluminium. Forget about anything harder; I tried using them on copper once and that was a total failure; this was with the larger and much more sturdy 3mm bits.
You'll destroy at least a handful of these figuring out how to use them with a Dremel without breaking them on soft and thin materials. Anything hard or thick simply isn't going to work. The Dremel's torque simply snaps the bit instantly.
Thanks!
If that doesn't work, I'll stick with the „Dremel egg“ and use the 0.5 mm cutter to work on soldering points. Maybe I can remove old solder with that.
I've come across soldering points on the Nikon F4 that I couldn't melt with the soldering tip despite adding flux.
Or other delicate work.
Tools are never superfluous
I think this is excellent advice.Think about mounting the Dremel in a fixed position and bring the work to the cutter, Andreas. Sometimes this can make for a more stable way to work.
If you do try your luck boring out a screw shaft with a tiny end mill, I'd recommend giving the end mill a pocket to start in - namely by using a small center bit. At least with that starting pocket you can minimize the prospect of the end mill skittering across the workpiece. And with steel, low rpms are best. Is cutting oil a possibility?
Did you mention that you have a Dremel workstation??
I got one for my Dremel ... it does make it much like a "real" drill press ... much better than hand holding.
I speculate that, someone installed the screws in the lens mount using a PERMANENT thread-locking compound. Or the “rocket scientist” might have used an epoxy cement. Normally, the fastening screws of Nikon lens mounts unscrew without a problem.
When locking screw threads that might have to be disassembled at some point, the correct choice is Loctite #242 REMOVEABLE THREADLOCKER.
This prevents the screws from loosening on their own, but still allows disassembly with a wrench or screwdriver using reasonable force.
Don’t depend on the color of the fluid as a guide. There are permanent adhesives that have the same blue color as Locktite #242. You must check the labeling on the bottle before using.
After viewing the photos of post #14, I doubt that your attempts to remove the screws will succeed. The screws are small-diameter stainless-steel wide-panhead screws. I measured the distance from the bottom of the counterbore to the bottom of the mount. It is 0.50 mm. That means that if you mill away the screw head and remove the mount, you’ll have at most, 0.50 mm of screw shank left to grip with a plier or similar tool. I think that would be impossible based on what has been shown in the photos of post #14. They’re obviously held into the threads tenaciously.
I wish you success. It doesn't look promising.
A Dremel is rather hard to control. If you don't have a serious drill press, the little Dremel version as depicted in a previous post might work if you clamp it to something even more solid. You first want to create a central dimple in the top of the screw with some kind of countersink to prevent your drill bit itself from straying off center. Inexpensive drill chucks have some wobble to them, and you'll be working with a small drill bit, preferably cobalt steel.
Once you've got a hole in it, you can try a small Easy Out. Avoid the cheap hardware store variety, which can easily snap off itself, and obtain it from an actual industrial supplier like McMaster instead.
If any of the screw head is still there instead of fully broken off, a better trick is to file a couple of flats on the side of the head and try to plier it out. I keep on hand a needle-nosed Vise Grip for that application. A purist might want to invest in a set of high-quality miniature pliers. Or pay your favorite dentist a visit and seen what he can do with his tools. You can always repay him in teeth.
Egads. Don’t use an egg shaped or other drill bit. Instead use a 90 degree HSS or Cobalt or carbide 2-flute spot drill w a drill press. $20 for 5 of em. Free-hand center prick punch a round spot divot in the center of the screw (using a center punch)(or not, just go with the center placing the spot drill into the center formed depression made by the existing screw head slot) and apply spot drill.
Egads. Don’t use an egg shaped or other drill bit. Instead use a 90 degree HSS or Cobalt or carbide 2-flute spot drill w a drill press. $20 for 5 of em. Free-hand center prick punch a round spot divot in the center of the screw (using a center punch)(or not, just go with the center placing the spot drill into the center formed depression made by the existing screw head slot) and apply spot drill.
I checked and the Dremel cutters that would fit are made of high-speed steel, so they should be HSS. But I can't get any further with them on bayonet screws, only the tungsten carbide cutter works. But HSS should be HSS, right?
Dremel has a limited number of carbide tipped items. But there are industrial suppliers which have a much wider selection carbide tips from other manufacturers which will fit. And serious work isn't done with hobby tools like Dremel anyway. I wish I had bought an industrial version machine for myself back when I was a distributor for that kind of thing. But I just couldn't justify the extra expense for only intermittent personal use, especially since I could borrow high quality machines as needed back then. So I too now own just a Dremel. But I go to sources like McMaster in this country for specialized inserts.
Most "high speed steel" isn't ideal for this kind of application. It overheats at extreme speeds. Therefore you should dial the RPM of the Dremel down about halfway.
at the risk of repeating myself, a regular bit, smaller than the screw's head, give good results. Then one has to find a way for getting rid if the screw's shaft
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