The Kodak 2422 Direct Duplication Film Thread

[MCB18]

Well, it’s here! 2422 direct duplication film!


As far as I am aware I’m the first person to actually doocument using this film pictorially, aside from one user on flicker in 2022. First observation: YELLOW.


I cut a 60mmx24cm strip that I ran through my RB67 and took a picture of a light bulb because otherwise the exposure time would have been like 2 minutes… did 0.8 ISO and 0.4 ISO pictures.


I’m going to process it in HC-110 Dil. B for 14 minutes (been told that’s a good DK-50 substitute). Times are given for D-19 and DK-50.



Will show results in a bit.

 

[MCB18]

It works! Admittedly it’s a terrible picture, but at least it proves the film works.

0.8, +1, +2

 

[MCB18]

Making another few rolls for testing, I’m getting in more HC-110 this afternoon so hopefully I’ll have more progress to share soon. I think I may have overdeveloped this roll but we’ll just have to see.

 

[MCB18]

Well, 20 minutes in HC-110 B gives what I believe are scannable results at ISO 0.8, And projectable results at +2. +1 is somewhere in between.

 

[koraks]

Quite interesting. +2 still seems kind of dark though.
Are you planning to use this material for projection? Or for dupe purposes? It seems useful for the latter in particular.

 

[MCB18]

Quite interesting. +2 still seems kind of dark though.
Are you planning to use this material for projection? Or for dupe purposes? It seems useful for the latter in particular.

Sorry, looks like the image loaded upside down, +2 is on the left there. As far my use case? The idea is to make slides, pretty much.

 

[dpurdy]

I have a lot of this film and use it to make enlarged negs from roll film for platinum printing. In fact I am printing a neg from it today and going to make a bunch of new negs in a week. I have it in both 9.5 inch and 5 inch rolls. I keep it in a deep freezer below 0º F. I have used it for years. I use D-19 as per Kodak recommendation. I find it very temperature sensitive and processing in trays I have a large tray with water and an aquarium heater and then put the tray of developer in that. Any little change of temperature has a big impact on the development. It also tends to be streaky. However when you get it right it makes a really good neg.

These prints are all from that film.

9.5 inch Enlarged Platinums by Dennis Purdy

pbase.com

Platinum prints from Rolleiflex negatives by Dennis Purdy

pbase.com

 

[MCB18]

I have a lot of this film and use it to make enlarged negs from roll film for platinum printing. In fact I am printing a neg from it today and going to make a bunch of new negs in a week. I have it in both 9.5 inch and 5 inch rolls. I keep it in a deep freezer below 0º F. I have used it for years. I use D-19 as per Kodak recommendation. I find it very temperature sensitive and processing in trays I have a large tray with water and an aquarium heater and then put the tray of developer in that. Any little change of temperature has a big impact on the development. It also tends to be streaky. However when you get it right it makes a really good neg.

These prints are all from that film.

9.5 inch Enlarged Platinums by Dennis Purdy

pbase.com

Platinum prints from Rolleiflex negatives by Dennis Purdy

pbase.com

Was told my rolls were in a climate controlled environment and were stored around 55°. The film does still work but it needs a LOT of light.

Developing it in my steel tank the temperature is pretty consistent, over 9 minutes the dev dropped maybe 1° from 75 to 74. So far the images look good, though.

Do you think using D-19 may actually make a difference? I was told D-76 is pretty close, but not a perfect substitute, and that HC-110 and DK-50 were used interchangeably in the past.

Also, have you ever tried using it directly in-camera? That’s why I was interested in it, folks have been asking me for MF/LF direct positive film for years and I finally had an answer for them.

 

[dpurdy]

I have never tried it in camera, only in an enlarger. I think you might have trouble getting enough black density. I guess D-19 isn't too far off from standard developers. It calls for a lot of Potassium Bromide and Sodium Sulfite. I always keep an eye on the black density of the film. I need that for clean whites and good contrast, so that is where I always start testing.

 

[MCB18]

I have never tried it in camera, only in an enlarger. I think you might have trouble getting enough black density. I guess D-19 isn't too far off from standard developers. It calls for a lot of Potassium Bromide and Sodium Sulfite. I always keep an eye on the black density of the film. I need that for clean whites and good contrast, so that is where I always start testing.

The film looks sort of brown, both in the shadows and highlights, like sepia. I honestly don’t hate it. I’m gonna try HC-110 A, and if that doesn’t make me happy, I’ll get some D-19.

I think at 0.2 ISO and with enough development it’s definitely usable. I’d like to see if ISO 0.8 is possible to get good slides from, but if not then I’ve been told your on a tripod anyway, so it doesn’t make a big difference at this point. I don’t think anyone was expecting that they could handhold this stuff in a 4x5 or 8x10 camera lol

 

[dpurdy]

The film looks sort of brown, both in the shadows and highlights, like sepia. I honestly don’t hate it. I’m gonna try HC-110 A, and if that doesn’t make me happy, I’ll get some D-19.

I think at 0.2 ISO and with enough development it’s definitely usable. I’d like to see if ISO 0.8 is possible to get good slides from, but if not then I’ve been told your on a tripod anyway, so it doesn’t make a big difference at this point. I don’t think anyone was expecting that they could handhold this stuff in a 4x5 or 8x10 camera lol

I miss spoke when I said I used it in an enlarger, I should have said I have only used it in an easel exposed with an enlarger. My exposures are pretty long and my development runs about 9 minutes.

 

[MCB18]

I think I’ve hit a point of diminishing returns, the density of the slides developed in HC 110 B for 20 minutes, and the one developed in HC 110 A for 10 minutes look almost identical. Film isn’t dry yet, I’ll show results when it is.

 

[FredK]

As your box states, 2422 was a duplication film for black and white aerial film. Thus, it is an orthochromatic film which is sensitive to blue light. The yellow color comes from the yellow sensitizing dyes incorporated to capture the blue light.

It would make zero sense for Kodak or other manufacturers of duplication films to make this film panchromatic because that would only increase the costs to manufacture while reducing the film's image characteristics. In the motion picture and consumer films businesses, other black and white duplication films were also yellow and orthochromatic, although they may have different hues / shades of yellow.

 

[lamerko]

I have an LPD4, which is quite similar. I don't have a problem with its low sensitivity, but its super narrow latitude and the terrible contrast make it extremely difficult to shoot. But no doubt, it's a lot of fun

 

[MCB18]

ISO 0.025 seems to work well… a lot slower than I was expecting, but hey, it works!

 

[MCB18]

I don’t have a light table, and I think I moved during the exposure, but the dmin is good and there’s some midtones

 

[gezak22]

Thank you for sharing initial results. I am looking forward to experimenting with it myself.

Given the slow speed of the film, how certain are you of your ISO number (rather than a different ISO and a different reciprocity exponent)?

 

[MCB18]

Direct enlargement of a 35mm negative onto 2422, I would say this was a success!

50mm lens set to f/5.6 for 120 seconds

 

[koraks]

That's pretty neat! Slow material though.

 

[MCB18]

Yeah…

 

[peter_guo1]

How do you cut and fit them in your 120 camera?