To repair or not repair A12 film backs, that is the question.

[What About Bob]

I just brought out my Hasselblad gear after a good four years. Last time I had used it both of my film backs had some issues. Now that I am looking over the backs: one of them stopped working correctly to where the side-winder just keeps going and doesn’t get to #1 and sometimes the winder hesitates. Four years ago I had lost a roll of film when using this back. I then immediately put this film back to the side so that I wouldn’t use it again. The second film back gives an odd and upfront sound right at the end of a wind, like something is letting loose, and occasionally a frame or two will show these comet-like trails that I think would be a light leak?

A few questions:

1. Would it be cheaper to get these backs repaired or just go on eBay and buy used backs? There are no repair shops close-by to me so I would have to mail out the backs for service.

Or

2. Should I just buy a used medium format SLR at a decent enough “cheap” price and just forget about anything Hasselblad?

My gut is telling me that the cost to repair these two A12 film backs will probably be out of my league and also the waiting time might be rather long depending on how busy a repair center is and whether or not a part can be obtained. I received my Hasselblad when I was a student at Hallmark, back in the mid 90s. I love my Hassie and it would be a shame to just have it laying around and collecting dust but at the same time I understand that with Hasselblad: if you want to play, you have to pay.

I have a Rolleicord that I got from eBay in 2019 and it is usable and I love the thing and also a K1000 from 1992 that has received some kind of black web-like design in the finder but it appears to still function. I’m thinking it might need a new pentaprism piece. This black object wouldn’t affect the images but it is annoying to look at in the finder.

I have been checking out eBay off an on for a medium format SLR. I would like to stick with 120. I like my Rolleicord TLR and would also like an SLR.

My Rolleicord does not have the masking overlay for parallax correction, so moving in a little closer requires a little upward guesstimation of the camera. I was thinking of making some kind of homemade overlay piece and somehow getting it into the finder. The finder isn’t the type that slides right out. It looks like it is held by two side screws on each side.

I also recently had bought a few soft release buttons for the Rolleicord but they wouldn’t screw all the way in so I had to return them. Would have to find something like a cable release plug without the cable, if that makes any sense. It would be neat to fire the shutter by pressing “in” instead of moving the lever to the left I tend to move a little when doing that action.

I don’t mind doing tripod work. In fact I will be doing a lot of that in the near future. That is one of the great things I love about conventional/analog photography is that you slow down, take the time out and not rush anything. Coming from someone who has had to deal with anxiety and OCD issues for a good part of his life; it is very important to calm down, relax and take the time out. Analog photography I would say is “the” thing that does remove all of that stuff from me. Only real thing that eases my mind.

 

[Don_ih]

I think would be a light leak

That's a light leak from the darkslide gate, which is pretty easy to fix yourself (I just did it).

If your backs are giving out, perhaps the body might need some attention, also. So, repair-wise, you'd probably be looking at a lot. But Hasselblad anything isn't cheap to buy anywhere - so getting a new back would be maybe too much with the possibility that it, too, may soon need service.

But if you sold what you have, you could buy a different medium format SLR for whatever you got. But then - maybe that would soon need service?

If you like the Hasselblad and can pay to do it, I'd say get it fixed.

 

[What About Bob]

That's a light leak from the darkslide gate, which is pretty easy to fix yourself (I just did it).

If your backs are giving out, perhaps the body might need some attention, also. So, repair-wise, you'd probably be looking at a lot. But Hasselblad anything isn't cheap to buy anywhere - so getting a new back would be maybe too much with the possibility that it, too, may soon need service.

But if you sold what you have, you could buy a different medium format SLR for whatever you got. But then - maybe that would soon need service?

If you like the Hasselblad and can pay to do it, I'd say get it fied.

True. When one thing goes then something else usually does. All of the parts are the same age so yeah there is that extra expense. I will hold on to the Hassie. I have so much connection with it I wouldn't be able to part with it. I will look into the light leak issue a little more. At least I might be able to fix that on my own.

 

[mshchem]

What's the model of your Hasselblad?

I bought a late 1970's A12 back at a garage sale for 10 bucks, I figured what the heck darkslide is worth that. It was doing the crank it and it didn't stop at 1, just kept going. Rather than do the right thing and find a repair person and spend $200 having it overhauled. I got out a eyedropper and applied a bit of solvent (movie film cleaner or Ronsonol) to the gear train. It loosened up and has worked fine since. I installed light seal (for the darkslide), this is simple as long as every screw comes free.

I love my Hasselblads, as discussed here, you need to "exercise" these cameras, keeps them clicking. Big issue is ancient dried grease. If you have a nice example I would get it in working order.

 

[mshchem]

This is the original easy to use. Dick Werner light seal. For darkslide light trap. Comes with great instructions

55000+ SOLD NEW HASSELBLAD LIGHT TRAP SEAL SET my copyrighted Instruction | eBay

Happy to share my over 50 years experience of working with Hasselblad.Sold over 55000 sets of trap seals. A HINT FOR CHECKING YOUR TRAP SEAL: Naturally, if you have random light streaks across your film, you have a light leak and bad seal set.

www.ebay.com

 

[What About Bob]

What's the model of your Hasselblad?

I bought a late 1970's A12 back at a garage sale for 10 bucks, I figured what the heck darkslide is worth that. It was doing the crank it and it didn't stop at 1, just kept going. Rather than do the right thing and find a repair person and spend $200 having it overhauled. I got out a eyedropper and applied a bit of solvent (movie film cleaner or Ronsonol) to the gear train. It loosened up and has worked fine since. I installed light seal (for the darkslide), this is simple as long as every screw comes free.

I love my Hasselblads, as discussed here, you need to "exercise" these cameras, keeps them clicking. Big issue is ancient dried grease. If you have a nice example I would get it in working order.

501c with the 80mm F2.8 lens. Body code: 17EC15268. Got the system when I went to Hallmark in mid 90s. EC being 1995

 

[What About Bob]

This is the original easy to use. Dick Werner light seal. For darkslide light trap. Comes with great instructions

55000+ SOLD NEW HASSELBLAD LIGHT TRAP SEAL SET my copyrighted Instruction | eBay

Happy to share my over 50 years experience of working with Hasselblad.Sold over 55000 sets of trap seals. A HINT FOR CHECKING YOUR TRAP SEAL: Naturally, if you have random light streaks across your film, you have a light leak and bad seal set.

www.ebay.com

Thanks mshchem.

I just got done watching a video on how to do the replacement.

 

[mshchem]

501c with the 80mm F2.8 lens. Body code: 17EC15268. Got the system when I went to Hallmark in mid 90s. EC being 1995

I had one of these, foolishly sold it. Beautiful black version, if I remember it's a CB lens which I love, better ergonomics than CF lenses. That's a gem well worth maintaining, probably it better shape than most of the older cameras, and it has the Acute-matte screen!

 

[What About Bob]

That solvent part I will look into also. As long as one is careful and takes their time things should go all right.

 

[What About Bob]

I had one of these, foolishly sold it. Beautiful black version, if I remember it's a CB lens which I love, better ergonomics than CF lenses. That's a gem well worth maintaining, probably it better shape than most of the older cameras, and it has the Acute-matte screen!

Lens says "C 80/2.8, Planar" The 80mm came with the 501c package as a kit. I like the stop-down preview lever on the left of that lens. I also have the 120/4.0 Makro-Planar lens. That one is a CF. Very good for portrait work.

1 - 45 degree prism-finder

 

[bdial]

I’ve not looked closely at back prices for a while. But getting it serviced might be a bit cheaper than a replacement, and you’ll know that you have a reliable back, something you won’t know if you buy a random used one.
Zack’s in Providence RI isn’t especially close to Northampton, but you can deal with them by mail. There is also a repair shop in VT, that seems to do good work.

 

[What About Bob]

I’ve not looked closely at back prices for a while. But getting it serviced might be a bit cheaper than a replacement, and you’ll know that you have a reliable back, something you won’t know if you buy a random used one.
Zack’s in Providence RI isn’t especially close to Northampton, but you can deal with them by mail. There is also a repair shop in VT, that seems to good work.

Lezot? I think that was the name. I was quickly browsing around within that past hour or so.

I got the two places. Thanks bdial.

 

[popdoc]

A24 backs are cheaper, work great, and are a great alternative.

The spacing gets a bit funky towards the end of the roll, but works great.

When loading 120, you don’t line up the film’s backing arrows to the backs’s little red loading alignment arrows/markings. Go a quarter turn past them as I recall to get it all lined up.

The other caveat is to watch the counter! Some of your best shots might end up not being there as it won’t stop you after 12 like an A12 back! Been there, done that…

Keep the ‘blad, and use it a lot more!

Best of luck…

 

[rulnacco]

Your first option should be to see if you can get your current backs working. And as others have said, it's very likely simply dried up grease/lubricant, or something (often the counter wheel) has slipped out of place. Most of the parts inside Hasselblad backs, unless they've been *enormously* used, are very hardy--usually the only thing that really potentially wears out is the nylon stop, and those are readily available from Hasselblad and from eBay at low cost.

I've got several backs, and following instructions online--there are several good videos--and Hasselblad's service manuals (which are also readily available online), I've serviced all mine, which has taken care of rough running, frame 1-2 overlap, and a few other problems. You should be able to readily service yours, with a bit of research. (As you've already seen, it sounds like, with replacing the light traps.)

A good, thorough cleaning, a very small bit of high-quality oil (sewing machine or gun oil will work) in the right places, and just a bit of grease on some gear teeth and a spring (it's better to go a bit less than too much with both the oil and grease), and your backs should work just fine. And you'll feel a sense of accomplishment that you've managed to do it yourself.

Don't get *too* cocky, though--the backs *are* fairly simple, and the number of things that can go wrong with them are fairly limited. The bodies require a good bit more expertise (it isn't rocket science, but there are some things you'd *better* know well before opening one up), and some specialised tools. The backs only need a good, properly sized flathead screwdriver, and maybe some needle-nosed pliers if you have to pull/replace a circlip.

Rather than spending money on a repair (at least straightaway), why not think about buying a "non-functional" back off eBay, then open it up and work on it yourself? That way you can get familiar with how they are put together and work without risking your own original backs. If you get the one you bought working you not only have gained experience, you have another working back you can use/sell. If it doesn't work, you may still be able to extract spare parts that may be useful to you now or later, or which can be sold. That's really what I did--I bought a trashed back off my second hand dealer in London for £20, took it apart and experimented with it before working on my own backs, and gained the practical hands-on knowledge I needed to take apart and reassemble my working backs. (Unfortunately, my back *was* trashed, apparently it took a blow and things are so misaligned it needs a new shell. But it was well worth the purchase price!)

 

[Axelwik]

Better economy to keep the Hasselblad system going than changing to another system that might or might not work without repairs, and may or may not give results as good as the Hasselblad.

They're designed to be serviced - get it done! It's part of the cost of owning any mechanical camera. Once it's done it will be like a new camera and last many years before it needs to be done again.

 

[AnselMortensen]

^^^This.

 

[Hasslebad]

I’ve had backs services at Steve’s Camera in Culver CA and at Midwest Camera. Both did good jobs. You can call them and ask them how much they estimate it could cost. They would only be able to truly quote when they inspect but they may have a good guess at the issues. I’ve replaced light seals myself. But if you are digging into gears, I recommend going to a reputable shop. They can also tell you their backlog time.

 

[Hasslebad]

Also given that your backs are from the 90s and probably matching, the cost of repair would be much less than purchasing one of a comparable vintage.

 

[What About Bob]

Your first option should be to see if you can get your current backs working. And as others have said, it's very likely simply dried up grease/lubricant, or something (often the counter wheel) has slipped out of place. Most of the parts inside Hasselblad backs, unless they've been *enormously* used, are very hardy--usually the only thing that really potentially wears out is the nylon stop, and those are readily available from Hasselblad and from eBay at low cost.

I've got several backs, and following instructions online--there are several good videos--and Hasselblad's service manuals (which are also readily available online), I've serviced all mine, which has taken care of rough running, frame 1-2 overlap, and a few other problems. You should be able to readily service yours, with a bit of research. (As you've already seen, it sounds like, with replacing the light traps.)

A good, thorough cleaning, a very small bit of high-quality oil (sewing machine or gun oil will work) in the right places, and just a bit of grease on some gear teeth and a spring (it's better to go a bit less than too much with both the oil and grease), and your backs should work just fine. And you'll feel a sense of accomplishment that you've managed to do it yourself.

Don't get *too* cocky, though--the backs *are* fairly simple, and the number of things that can go wrong with them are fairly limited. The bodies require a good bit more expertise (it isn't rocket science, but there are some things you'd *better* know well before opening one up), and some specialised tools. The backs only need a good, properly sized flathead screwdriver, and maybe some needle-nosed pliers if you have to pull/replace a circlip.

Rather than spending money on a repair (at least straightaway), why not think about buying a "non-functional" back off eBay, then open it up and work on it yourself? That way you can get familiar with how they are put together and work without risking your own original backs. If you get the one you bought working you not only have gained experience, you have another working back you can use/sell. If it doesn't work, you may still be able to extract spare parts that may be useful to you now or later, or which can be sold. That's really what I did--I bought a trashed back off my second hand dealer in London for £20, took it apart and experimented with it before working on my own backs, and gained the practical hands-on knowledge I needed to take apart and reassemble my working backs. (Unfortunately, my back *was* trashed, apparently it took a blow and things are so misaligned it needs a new shell. But it was well worth the purchase price!)

Sounds good. I like the idea of experimenting. I will start looking for the needed instructional materials.

Thanks rulnacco

 

[What About Bob]

Also given that your backs are from the 90s and probably matching, the cost of repair would be much less than purchasing one of a comparable vintage.

Good to know. The kit came with the 80mm lens and one film back and the other film back was bought at the same time as the kit.

Thanks Hassleblad

 

[mgb74]

I’ve not looked closely at back prices for a while. But getting it serviced might be a bit cheaper than a replacement, and you’ll know that you have a reliable back, something you won’t know if you buy a random used one.
Zack’s in Providence RI isn’t especially close to Northampton, but you can deal with them by mail. There is also a repair shop in VT, that seems to do good work.

Is vermontcamera.com the Vermont repair shop you're referring to?

 

[bdial]

Is vermontcamera.com the Vermont repair shop you're referring to?

It is, I wasn’t sure at the time I wrote that post. I haven’t dealt with them directly, but bought a camera from VCP a few months ago that had been serviced by Vermont Camera.

 

[epatsellis]

There's also Barn Owl Camera repair, he inherited all of David Odesses' tools and supplies, if I remember correctly. He's up 91 almost to Vermont I think. Last time I checked it was ~125 for a back overhaul, including light seal. Not a horrible price to know you have a back thats working 100%

 

[Sirius Glass]

I always get my Hasselblad film backs repaired. In fact since I bought all my backs used, I took each one into Samy's Camera and had their Hasselblad repairman go over them. He would make any necessary adjustments and replace the seals as necessary. Buying other backs is just buying the previous owners' problems. Get you backs looked as and adjusted as and if necessary.

 

[Ai Print]

Not sure if you have recently checked the prices on good clean used A12 type III mags w/ the square film reminder slot, but they have gone up a fair bit compared to ten years ago. Unless they are well worn with roughed up labyrinth seals on the face, I'd say it is absolutely worth spending the money to get them tuned up. The light trap seals are a breeze though, I'd watch a vid and tackle that on your own.

Then if you want to get into the system for the long haul, download a PDF of the maintenance and repair manual for them since as stated above, they can be fairly easy to tune up if you use good habits and be patient with the process. That is what I did since I have 14 of these mags.