To repair or not repair A12 film backs, that is the question.

[MarkS]

Yes, get them repaired. They're not making any more of them!

 

[Eff64]

I just brought out my Hasselblad gear after a good four years. Last time I had used it both of my film backs had some issues. Now that I am looking over the backs: one of them stopped working correctly to where the side-winder just keeps going and doesn’t get to #1 and sometimes the winder hesitates. Four years ago I had lost a roll of film when using this back. I then immediately put this film back to the side so that I wouldn’t use it again. The second film back gives an odd and upfront sound right at the end of a wind, like something is letting loose, and occasionally a frame or two will show these comet-like trails that I think would be a light leak?

A few questions:

1. Would it be cheaper to get these backs repaired or just go on eBay and buy used backs? There are no repair shops close-by to me so I would have to mail out the backs for service.

Or

2. Should I just buy a used medium format SLR at a decent enough “cheap” price and just forget about anything Hasselblad?

My gut is telling me that the cost to repair these two A12 film backs will probably be out of my league and also the waiting time might be rather long depending on how busy a repair center is and whether or not a part can be obtained. I received my Hasselblad when I was a student at Hallmark, back in the mid 90s. I love my Hassie and it would be a shame to just have it laying around and collecting dust but at the same time I understand that with Hasselblad: if you want to play, you have to pay.

I have a Rolleicord that I got from eBay in 2019 and it is usable and I love the thing and also a K1000 from 1992 that has received some kind of black web-like design in the finder but it appears to still function. I’m thinking it might need a new pentaprism piece. This black object wouldn’t affect the images but it is annoying to look at in the finder.

I have been checking out eBay off an on for a medium format SLR. I would like to stick with 120. I like my Rolleicord TLR and would also like an SLR.

My Rolleicord does not have the masking overlay for parallax correction, so moving in a little closer requires a little upward guesstimation of the camera. I was thinking of making some kind of homemade overlay piece and somehow getting it into the finder. The finder isn’t the type that slides right out. It looks like it is held by two side screws on each side.

I also recently had bought a few soft release buttons for the Rolleicord but they wouldn’t screw all the way in so I had to return them. Would have to find something like a cable release plug without the cable, if that makes any sense. It would be neat to fire the shutter by pressing “in” instead of moving the lever to the left I tend to move a little when doing that action.

I don’t mind doing tripod work. In fact I will be doing a lot of that in the near future. That is one of the great things I love about conventional/analog photography is that you slow down, take the time out and not rush anything. Coming from someone who has had to deal with anxiety and OCD issues for a good part of his life; it is very important to calm down, relax and take the time out. Analog photography I would say is “the” thing that does remove all of that stuff from me. Only real thing that eases my mind.

Barn Owl Cameras – Film Camera Repair and services. Specializing in Rolleiflex and Hasselblad

box5760.temp.domains

This guy is in Massachusetts. Disclosure-I have not used him and do not have any personal experience!

But I had wondered at the time of David Odess passing what would happen to all of his tools and spare parts. Somewhere I had seen mention that Barn Owl was affiliated and Odess had told someone they were getting his stuff when the time came.

Now Barn Owl specifically mentioning that. Use your own gut as your guide!

This is from their site:

Barn Owl Camera


ABOUT ME

I have been an avid photographer for 35 years and a camera repair person for the past 25. Hasselblad is my passion and I have the factory jigs, tools, manuals and experience to service most Hasselblad V series cameras. David Odess was my mentor and teacher and I aim to carry on his tradition of excellent service with a focus on detail and customer satisfaction. I also have a lot of experience working on Rolleiflex TLR cameras and can perform a complete overhaul of any of the range from the early cameras to the 2.8F. I have a workshop and darkroom in Western Massachussetts where I repair cameras, develop film and print photos. I would be happy to work on your camera, talk repair, or discuss film photography.

Feel free to contact me via email: barnowlcameras@gmail.com

 

[What About Bob]

There's also Barn Owl Camera repair, he inherited all of David Odesses' tools and supplies, if I remember correctly. He's up 91 almost to Vermont I think. Last time I checked it was ~125 for a back overhaul, including light seal. Not a horrible price to know you have a back thats working 100%

Not bad at all. Thanks

 

[What About Bob]

I always get my Hasselblad film backs repaired. In fact since I bought all my backs used, I took each one into Samy's Camera and had their Hasselblad repairman go over them. He would make any necessary adjustments and replace the seals as necessary. Buying other backs is just buying the previous owners' problems. Get you backs looked as and adjusted as and if necessary.

Yeah no matter where you buy one it is going to need servicing in the end. Better safe.

 

[What About Bob]

Not sure if you have recently checked the prices on good clean used A12 type III mags w/ the square film reminder slot, but they have gone up a fair bit compared to ten years ago. Unless they are well worn with roughed up labyrinth seals on the face, I'd say it is absolutely worth spending the money to get them tuned up. The light trap seals are a breeze though, I'd watch a vid and tackle that on your own.

Then if you want to get into the system for the long haul, download a PDF of the maintenance and repair manual for them since as stated above, they can be fairly easy to tune up if you use good habits and be patient with the process. That is what I did since I have 14 of these mags.

I am going to try with the film seals first. I downloaded a video not long ago and will go by that.

For working on the body I would need a lot more time and confidence for that one. My first idea was that of "I would like to do all of this on my own, oh boy I can't wait!" Then I saw the manuals, new terms, part items, many things that weren't familiar to me and then that original idea I had turned right into "Uhmm nope, maybe not" lol

 

[What About Bob]

Barn Owl Cameras – Film Camera Repair and services. Specializing in Rolleiflex and Hasselblad

box5760.temp.domains

This guy is in Massachusetts. Disclosure-I have not used him and do not have any personal experience!

But I had wondered at the time of David Odess passing what would happen to all of his tools and spare parts. Somewhere I had seen mention that Barn Owl was affiliated and Odess had told someone they were getting his stuff when the time came.

Now Barn Owl specifically mentioning that. Use your own gut as your guide!

This is from their site:

Barn Owl Camera


ABOUT ME

I have been an avid photographer for 35 years and a camera repair person for the past 25. Hasselblad is my passion and I have the factory jigs, tools, manuals and experience to service most Hasselblad V series cameras. David Odess was my mentor and teacher and I aim to carry on his tradition of excellent service with a focus on detail and customer satisfaction. I also have a lot of experience working on Rolleiflex TLR cameras and can perform a complete overhaul of any of the range from the early cameras to the 2.8F. I have a workshop and darkroom in Western Massachussetts where I repair cameras, develop film and print photos. I would be happy to work on your camera, talk repair, or discuss film photography.

Feel free to contact me via email: barnowlcameras@gmail.com

I will keep Barn Owl in mind. Saved the bookmark. Thanks

My main concern about servicing would be that I would have to mail out my equipment. I do not have wheels. Mailing makes me very nervous for a number reasons. Things sometimes can get mishandled/damaged, lost or even stolen. These were the motivators that had me with the idea of doing my own repairs in the first place.

Also when it comes to receiving packages back: delivery people a lot of times leave packages out in the vestibule area where anybody can come by and el-swipo. If office management is around they will move the packages from the vestibule to the inner main lobby. If management is not there then run down as fast as you can and get your package once you get wind of it arriving.

Recently management blasted flyers all over the complex, the vestibule and even plastered them on all outside windows of the complex in huge 200 font and in BIG BOLD RED LETTERS telling delivery people to use the key codes that were given to them to get into the main lobby area. Still not a lot of them do. I guess more flyers need to be made and bigger font sizes used. Few residents posted letters in the vestibule even telling delivery people to GET INSIDE PLEASE!

Mail is a crazy business.

 

[What About Bob]

Current plan: I will put a test roll into the Blad and review the negatives. I will order the foam pieces and foil for the back that has the leak. The other back is not functional at all so I'll either just leave that to one side for now or use that second back as the sacrificial lamb for total disassembly, being careful of course, and figure out the parts and all and how to clean it up. Lastly, get in touch with repair shop, discuss what is up and any concerns I have.

Yeah I think that will work.

 

[retina_restoration]

I will keep Barn Owl in mind. Saved the bookmark. Thanks

My main concern about servicing would be that I would have to mail out my equipment. I do not have wheels. Mailing makes me very nervous for a number reasons. Things sometimes can get mishandled/damaged, lost or even stolen. These were the motivators that had me with the idea of doing my own repairs in the first place.

I operate a camera repair service. Last year I serviced approximately 145 cameras, all but 8 came to me via USPS Mail (3 delivered in person and five came by USPS or FedEx). In the three years I have been providing this service, not once has a camera gone missing from the mail system, nor did any of them arrived damaged. Every one of them got back to their owner safely, via USPS Priority Mail.

Just to say, my experience using the mail system to receive and return cameras has been exemplary. That said, I do instruct customers to provide a secure return address to avoid "porch pirates".

I have sent Hasselblad equipment to Jim at Barn Owl and he does a superb job at a reasonable price. I do not hesitate to recommend him. He knows what he's doing.

 

[BrianShaw]

I will keep Barn Owl in mind. Saved the bookmark. Thanks

My main concern about servicing would be that I would have to mail out my equipment. I do not have wheels. Mailing makes me very nervous for a number reasons. Things sometimes can get mishandled/damaged, lost or even stolen. These were the motivators that had me with the idea of doing my own repairs in the first place.

Also when it comes to receiving packages back: delivery people a lot of times leave packages out in the vestibule area where anybody can come by and el-swipo. If office management is around they will move the packages from the vestibule to the inner main lobby. If management is not there then run down as fast as you can and get your package once you get wind of it arriving.

Recently management blasted flyers all over the complex, the vestibule and even plastered them on all outside windows of the complex in huge 200 font and in BIG BOLD RED LETTERS telling delivery people to use the key codes that were given to them to get into the main lobby area. Still not a lot of them do. I guess more flyers need to be made and bigger font sizes used. Few residents posted letters in the vestibule even telling delivery people to GET INSIDE PLEASE!

Mail is a crazy business.

With many of the shipping services you can register at their website for enhanced tracking tools which provide detailed insights into location and offer customer control over delivery. We have so much more control than ever. But even then, delivery errors happen. Rarely, in my experience.

 

[eli griggs]

Replacing a Hasselblad magazine Darkslide) light seal is the "Change a Tire... " chore of that entire "V" series system.

IMO.

 

[What About Bob]

I operate a camera repair service. Last year I serviced approximately 145 cameras, all but 8 came to me via USPS Mail (3 delivered in person and five came by USPS or FedEx). In the three years I have been providing this service, not once has a camera gone missing from the mail system, nor did any of them arrived damaged. Every one of them got back to their owner safely, via USPS Priority Mail.

Just to say, my experience using the mail system to receive and return cameras has been exemplary. That said, I do instruct customers to provide a secure return address to avoid "porch pirates".

I have sent Hasselblad equipment to Jim at Barn Owl and he does a superb job at a reasonable price. I do not hesitate to recommend him. He knows what he's doing.

This is good to know. Gives me a little bit of relief. Thanks retina.

 

[What About Bob]

With many of the shipping services you can register at their website for enhanced tracking tools which provide detailed insights into location and offer customer control over delivery. We have so much more control than ever. But even then, delivery errors happen. Rarely, in my experience.

Great to have these tools. Gives a little bit of extra relief. Thanks Brian

 

[What About Bob]

Replacing a Hasselblad magazine Darkslide) light seal is the "Change a Tire... " chore of that entire "V" series system.

IMO.

That I will give a try. Memories of Christmas Story are coming to me now, lol.

I will be developing a roll shot with the Hassie earlier today to see what kind of leak there is and also check out frame spacing. Every time I advanced the film; toward the end of the wind there is this short screech or chirp-like sound. Like something let loose at the end of the wind. Don't know if that is the magazine or the winder itself on the camera body. I do know that my other magazine is totally in need of repair. The winding on that back hesitates and the counter doesn't even get to #1 when I keep winding. Plus I wouldn't doubt that it needs new light sealing materials.

I was in the greenhouse today at Smith College and I blew off a few shots of cacti. It was dead quiet in there and then all of a sudden "KER-KLUNK" I think I got a few people there doing the happy dance.

 

[What About Bob]

Well... developed the test roll from the Hassie. I have comet-like leaks on two frames, not too far from one another, and all of the exposures are sort of smeared at the tops and bottoms and the frames have a visually mild "trapezoidal" quality to them. I haven't witnessed this before when I was using the Hassie back in 2019. I vaguely recall seeing something similar to this effect many years ago when viewing over some of my grandmother's old 127 negatives, where the exposed frames do not look perfectly squared out.

I included a scanned example showing the shape of the frames. Because I am using a flatbed scanner there is no light over the bed to illuminate the strips so that the images could be viewed so I do apologize for this. I would have liked to have shown the two frames that have the comet-like trails in them but I can later make a contact sheet. Before I scanned these in I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me while I was cutting up the strips. I'm thinking the leaks may have extended past being comet-like and has spread itself around a good segment of the outer area of the film square to give such a distortion.

New plan: First I will buy a light trap seal kit and do the sealing myself and see if this fixes the problem. If the sealing kit helps the situation then I can relax a little and hold off on repairs for the other film back and for the servicing of the body. This would give me time to save up some extra cash for this. If the sealing kit doesn't solve the problem then I will promptly draft up a letter to the repair shop and ask questions about their services. Depending on cost I might be able to only send out one piece of the equipment at a time. Send one film back then later the other then look into getting the body looked over, CLA'ed, etc. I don't mind it taking some time. I do have my Rolleicord so it isn't the end of the world.

I will have to get in touch with the maker of that sealing kit because there is apparently an extra foam piece that is not shown in the preview image on his product page. I recently viewed a Youtube video of someone showing how to clean out and replace the seals and there is an extra thinnish long piece of sticky foam that goes onto the inside channel, dark slide end, of the plate that comes off from the magazine. From looking at that video it looks like that extra foam piece is needed.

On a good note: I am really enjoying the D23 negatives. I also saved 100% on car insurance because I don't have a car.

I will be saving some samples of those black specks that I have been getting after developing and put them to the side. After souping this last negative the specks just stayed at the bottom of the graduate while I was using the new strainer. I had to use a q-tip and swab the bottom of the graduate to get at them and place them on some tissue to dry out. I bought a strainer for nothing, lol. Funny how using the mix for the very first roll and nothing happens and then after that it does. Doesn't affect the film at all so that's a good thing. I think it is the chemicals that I got. Maybe they weren't all that hot. I am waiting for an order from Artcraft so things should be better.

 

[Don_ih]

@What About Bob -- it looks like your light seal is fine, since there is no edge fogging of the film. When light leaks in through the darkslide slot, it fogs the edge of the film and "sprays" across to the other side. I have no idea what's going on with your film (namely, the odd shape).

 

[What About Bob]

@What About Bob -- it looks like your light seal is fine, since there is no edge fogging of the film. When light leaks in through the darkslide slot, it fogs the edge of the film and "sprays" across to the other side. I have no idea what's going on with your film (namely, the odd shape).

I'm clueless. I will have to do up a contact sheet later on and post that example up to show the comet effect. I haven't been to bed yet. I'm thinking too much about this. Between this and the black specks I'm totally clueless.

 

[BrianShaw]

Bob, are you loading the film UNDER the silver clamping bar?

 

[rulnacco]

I am going to try with the film seals first. I downloaded a video not long ago and will go by that.

For working on the body I would need a lot more time and confidence for that one. My first idea was that of "I would like to do all of this on my own, oh boy I can't wait!" Then I saw the manuals, new terms, part items, many things that weren't familiar to me and then that original idea I had turned right into "Uhmm nope, maybe not" lol

Hmmm, this is a weird one. As Brian mentioned, are you sure the film is *under* the silver clamp? It's on the same side as the twin notches, and they should be a bit more sharply defined than they are on your negatives, which means the film may have not been in the proper plane in that area--which would happen if it were riding above the clamp, very likely.

Now, that bit on the upper right corner of your frames that's been cut off appears to be because something is blocking light from hitting the film there. (The rest of the image area on those frames looks fine, mostly; the fogging in the lower left corners of many is a bit puzzling.) I would think a possible cause for the upper right, if you loaded the film correctly, is that your light seal has broken at the fold, and a bit of it has pivoted and slid inwards into the image area, and is what caused the obstruction--I had exactly the same thing happen once on an old back I purchased (but it was even worse), and once I replaced the light seal, it was fine. (A break in the light seal could also explain the comet effect you mention.) It *is* a bit puzzling that it's at the top of the image rather than the side opposite the notches (where the light trap is). Check the bottom right corner of the image area on your back, and see if something is jammed up under the roller or something--could be a bit of the light seal, it also could be a bit of the tape used to seal a roll of film after shooting it that's come loose, maybe. (I've seen that before, too.)

Replacing the light seals is super easy. It'll take you 15 minutes to do the first time, less than half of that afterward. I buy mine from Dick Werner (blackbird711 on eBay), as he makes a good product, it's reasonably priced, and his directions are superb and copiously illustrated. When I lived in London, I used to buy his kits when I came back for a visit in the US, and replace the light seals for my second-hand dealer and his customers over there for a number of years. (Given your comments, you might find the 45 bucks for his repair manual quite a good investment, too.)

I think at this point, you should (1) check your back as I mentioned above and make sure there's nothing trapped where the frame is being cut off (lower right corner as you look at the camera mating plate on the back), (2) ensure that you are loading the film properly and that it stays under the silver clamp on the crank side of the insert when you put it into the back, and (3) replace your light seal, which should be done regularly anyway. I would think doing those three things would *likely* solve the problems that are currently affecting your images. Really, once you have a play with the inside of a back you'll see that the mechanical bits aren't that complicated either--but right now, you shouldn't have to fool with those at all, as your frame spacing is pretty much perfect. Overlapping frames (particularly 1 and 2) or irregularly spaced frames would be a symptom of a mechanical problem, and I don't see any in evidence there.

I would be fairly certain that if you do the three things I mentioned above, your problems *should* be solved. Let us know!

 

[Sirius Glass]

That I will give a try. Memories of Christmas Story are coming to me now, lol.

I will be developing a roll shot with the Hassie earlier today to see what kind of leak there is and also check out frame spacing. Every time I advanced the film; toward the end of the wind there is this short screech or chirp-like sound. Like something let loose at the end of the wind. Don't know if that is the magazine or the winder itself on the camera body. I do know that my other magazine is totally in need of repair. The winding on that back hesitates and the counter doesn't even get to #1 when I keep winding. Plus I wouldn't doubt that it needs new light sealing materials.

I was in the greenhouse today at Smith College and I blew off a few shots of cacti. It was dead quiet in there and then all of a sudden "KER-KLUNK" I think I got a few people there doing the happy dance.

I just love a good TH-WACK! from my Hasselblad.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Well... developed the test roll from the Hassie. I have comet-like leaks on two frames, not too far from one another, and all of the exposures are sort of smeared at the tops and bottoms and the frames have a visually mild "trapezoidal" quality to them. I haven't witnessed this before when I was using the Hassie back in 2019. I vaguely recall seeing something similar to this effect many years ago when viewing over some of my grandmother's old 127 negatives, where the exposed frames do not look perfectly squared out.

I included a scanned example showing the shape of the frames. Because I am using a flatbed scanner there is no light over the bed to illuminate the strips so that the images could be viewed so I do apologize for this. I would have liked to have shown the two frames that have the comet-like trails in them but I can later make a contact sheet. Before I scanned these in I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me while I was cutting up the strips. I'm thinking the leaks may have extended past being comet-like and has spread itself around a good segment of the outer area of the film square to give such a distortion.

New plan: First I will buy a light trap seal kit and do the sealing myself and see if this fixes the problem. If the sealing kit helps the situation then I can relax a little and hold off on repairs for the other film back and for the servicing of the body. This would give me time to save up some extra cash for this. If the sealing kit doesn't solve the problem then I will promptly draft up a letter to the repair shop and ask questions about their services. Depending on cost I might be able to only send out one piece of the equipment at a time. Send one film back then later the other then look into getting the body looked over, CLA'ed, etc. I don't mind it taking some time. I do have my Rolleicord so it isn't the end of the world.

I will have to get in touch with the maker of that sealing kit because there is apparently an extra foam piece that is not shown in the preview image on his product page. I recently viewed a Youtube video of someone showing how to clean out and replace the seals and there is an extra thinnish long piece of sticky foam that goes onto the inside channel, dark slide end, of the plate that comes off from the magazine. From looking at that video it looks like that extra foam piece is needed.

On a good note: I am really enjoying the D23 negatives. I also saved 100% on car insurance because I don't have a car.

I will be saving some samples of those black specks that I have been getting after developing and put them to the side. After souping this last negative the specks just stayed at the bottom of the graduate while I was using the new strainer. I had to use a q-tip and swab the bottom of the graduate to get at them and place them on some tissue to dry out. I bought a strainer for nothing, lol. Funny how using the mix for the very first roll and nothing happens and then after that it does. Doesn't affect the film at all so that's a good thing. I think it is the chemicals that I got. Maybe they weren't all that hot. I am waiting for an order from Artcraft so things should be better.

The irregular negative shape is an indication that the film back itself is out of alignment. It needs to be placed in the Hasselblad tool jig [by a Hasselblad trained repair man] and adjusted and realigned to factory specification. I have needed that done to several film backs that I had inspected just after I purchased them.

 

[What About Bob]

@BrianShaw and @rulnacco - The film went under the side clamp before inserting the holder into the back.

You mentioned about overlapping frames. My Rolleicord does this once in a while. I bought it off of eBay in 2019. It was CLA'ed. Just don't know when.

I will go over those three things you mentioned. Tomorrow I will get a set of precision screwdrivers, plastic and metal angled tweezers, and some extras.

Does that seal kit that Dick sell have that third sticky foam piece? I didn't notice this extra piece shown in the product image on his page. This is the piece in question:

I was thinking of buying two of those kits but the second film back that I have has more issues going on with it. The side winder hesitates at times and counter doesn't ever get to #1. The inside recessed gear inside of the film shell that accepts the insert's spindle nubbie from the take-up spool when putting the insert in; that part is turnning counter-clockwise. There is a tiny black spike thing in the shell that goes halfway into the insert. I thought that nay have been to reset the counter but it may be for something else. I want to get to know all of this stuff.

I will get back with everyone about this. When I get the screwdrivers I will remove the plate and at least see if there are any obstructions of any kind. My thinking is that the foam is going to be on the crumbly side. Thinking along the line of those old 8-track cartridges where the foam underneath the tape disintegrates eventually..

Thanks guys

 

[What About Bob]

@Sirius Glass - Oh. This changes things then. If the backs need to be sent out I may as well hold off on buying the light trap seals and just have whoever does an alignment service redo the seals as well.

Thanks for letting me know this.

 

[rulnacco]

I would *still* replace the seals yourself--first. Why? Because it's extremely easy to do it yourself--and it's way cheaper than having someone else do it. And if it *does* fix your problem, you don't need to go through the expense of having more work done to the back. It does need to be done occasionally, and eventually, you'll want to do that simple bit of maintenance yourself--saves money and time. So why not learn how to do it, when it is quite simple?

If the back *is* out of alignment, your next difficulty is finding a repair place that actually has the proper tools to fix it. Those jigs ain't cheap or common at all, and I'd expect that a lot of repair places don't have them. (David Odess, who surely did have one, passed away not so long ago, so other than Hasselblad itself, I'm not sure just who would have one.) So again, I'd try the *easy and cheap* fix first--and, if that doesn't work, go on to the more complex and expensive repair. Basic troubleshooting, really.

Dick's kit doesn't have that piece of sticky foam/felt--but I've never replaced it on any of my backs, and I've never had any problems from it. I'm not saying you absolutely should ignore it, but it's probably one of the less likely sources of problems if you don't replace it. I'd just give it a bit of a brush to clear off any gunk, and be done with it. If it does bother you, then just buy someone else's kit that includes it.

Your second back does sound as if it needs a bit more work--but it's likely to be simply a little CLA, with the emphasis on the L--lubrication. The oil and grease does dry up/migrate out of place/attract gunk over time. If your counter isn't resetting properly, it *could* be a broken/displaced spring, but I'd be more inclined to think it just needs a bit of cleaning and oiling.

If you were close by me (I'm in Mississippi), I'd tell you to just bring it by and let me have a look at it, and I'd show you how it all fits together and functions--and in probably less than a half hour, we'd likely have it running perfectly again. (As Dick points out, with his repair manual, you can correct *most* things yourself--and save tons of money in the process. Unfortunately, re-aligning a back, if that's actually necessary, is *not* one of those things.)

 

[What About Bob]

I would *still* replace the seals yourself--first. Why? Because it's extremely easy to do it yourself--and it's way cheaper than having someone else do it. And if it *does* fix your problem, you don't need to go through the expense of having more work done to the back. It does need to be done occasionally, and eventually, you'll want to do that simple bit of maintenance yourself--saves money and time. So why not learn how to do it, when it is quite simple?

If the back *is* out of alignment, your next difficulty is finding a repair place that actually has the proper tools to fix it. Those jigs ain't cheap or common at all, and I'd expect that a lot of repair places don't have them. (David Odess, who surely did have one, passed away not so long ago, so other than Hasselblad itself, I'm not sure just who would have one.) So again, I'd try the *easy and cheap* fix first--and, if that doesn't work, go on to the more complex and expensive repair. Basic troubleshooting, really.

Dick's kit doesn't have that piece of sticky foam/felt--but I've never replaced it on any of my backs, and I've never had any problems from it. I'm not saying you absolutely should ignore it, but it's probably one of the less likely sources of problems if you don't replace it. I'd just give it a bit of a brush to clear off any gunk, and be done with it. If it does bother you, then just buy someone else's kit that includes it.

Your second back does sound as if it needs a bit more work--but it's likely to be simply a little CLA, with the emphasis on the L--lubrication. The oil and grease does dry up/migrate out of place/attract gunk over time. If your counter isn't resetting properly, it *could* be a broken/displaced spring, but I'd be more inclined to think it just needs a bit of cleaning and oiling.

If you were close by me (I'm in Mississippi), I'd tell you to just bring it by and let me have a look at it, and I'd show you how it all fits together and functions--and in probably less than a half hour, we'd likely have it running perfectly again. (As Dick points out, with his repair manual, you can correct *most* things yourself--and save tons of money in the process. Unfortunately, re-aligning a back, if that's actually necessary, is *not* one of those things.)

Thanks rulnacco. I will get the kits and work on the current back and see about having the second one sent for servicing. Some suggestions for services were posted and I'll be going over this post to see which one to to use

I wasn't able to get the screwdrivers today so I will do this tomorrow and also make a contact sheet of those strips. Holding off of printing for tonight. Will shoot a roll of something tomorrow just to have something extra to print up. I will use the Rolleicord for this.

 

[What About Bob]

I was just handed a precision flathead screwdriver that fits the screws for the back-plate but I can't seem to turn the screws. I don't want to go too hard with this, might strip them. Is there a specific set of screwdrivers I should be using? Thanks.

Hold on! I am unscrewing the screws. The adventure begins!

And of course there is always that one last screw that will not budge.