Could some one explain all the reasons for having back paper on roll film instead for possibility to load roll in to the camera on the light?
Assuming that emulsion and film base in most cases are similar on the rolls and 35 mm film, so does it without back paper makes problems in film transport in the camera or it is connected with reflection of back light from the door and other parts in the camera?
I have seen examples of Agfa aviphot PE 200 and to me it promises a lot, but it looks to me like it was shoot on the moon, more like film for astronauts, astrophot.
What we can do instead using filters to avoid unnatural tonality or it is inherent for IR emulsions?
If I understand your question, you are asking why paper is all along the back of 120 film, instead of only having paper at the beginning and end of the roll. Well, when 120 was introduced, roll film formats were all like that. You had paper to protect the film, and to keep the camera’s simple, they simply put numbers on the backing paper that users would manually wind to.
A lot of the more recent 120 cameras do it automatically. But some, like Holgas and other inexpensive cameras, still use it. Without the paper, the window would ruin the film, which is not good at all. Some people like these types of cameras. I personally don’t, as I find the numbers hard to see.
However, your idea is definitely not unwarranted. There is a rollfilm format with paper only at the ends. It is 220 film. It makes it so that you can fit twice as much film into each roll, but you must have a more complex mechanism for transporting the film, as the red window cannot be used. A lot of people here also miss it, as almost no one is making it at a large scale anymore. And it seems like there are very few people that even bother to make it for themselves.
As for Aviphot 200 and it looking strange, I’m not sure what specifically you mean. I have used it as a normal black and white film, and it looks fine. You could definitely try adding a filter meant to add/reduce contrast of B&W film, but this is a personal taste.
Anyway, hope this answers your questions!
A small caveat. Some adhesive tapes are tribo-electric,
That's so cool!I think all adhesive tapes are triboluminescent. Do it right and you can have cold-fusion right on your darkroom bench (er, stretching things a bit):
A new way to make sticky tape see-through
Researchers have found a new "see-through" use for clear sticky tape -- it produces X-rays when it is peeled off the roll.</p>www.reuters.com
@Cholentpot look at the indoor photo of the coffee mug from you: the grain on the wall is very similar to the grain on my recent photos. The grain texture seems unique to Aviphot, and a bit different from every other B&W film I have used in the past.
The packaging says expiration date 2012-12. I got these from India, probably like everyone else.From which date it is?
From which date it is?
I am realizing that 220 is a lot of pictures. I’m only on frame 4, and my camera has had this roll in it since last week…
Yep. That's why I stopped 220ing. It's too many photos for medium format for me. I'm doing half-frames 120 now and 24 frames is a lot of frames.
My AT-1 has had a 36 exposure roll of 250D in it for months now, lol. Not much to photograph in winter.
You know, it just occurred to me that I saw your name crop up on a thread. You don’t like cutting 70mm down?
What we can do instead using filters to avoid unnatural tonality or it is inherent for IR emulsions?
It is lab time, otherwise we will have it re branded as a Moon Digiphot from Lomo. Grain like noise, white holes for ruining composition, highlights roll of like from cheap semiconductors.Not much to photograph in winter.
However, I get results I like using POTA developers, which is designed for improved grays on high contrast film. Have used both Aviphot 40 and 200 (both bulk loaded) and had pleasant results
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