What did you fix today? (part 2)

[Kino]

Removed a loose viewfinder shim from a Minolta SRT 200 and cleaned the focus screen. Easy cameras to work on and built like a tank...

 

[anfenglin]

I serviced a Tessar 2,8/80 for Pentacon Six, relubed it and cleaned the lenses.
Can't wait to see if it is really as bad as a lot of people say it is.

 

[removed account4]

carburetor .. but i am not sure if it is really fixed .. might have to fix it again

 

[Marcelo Paniagua]

Fixed a Solinette II that had a stuck focusing ring. Seems to be a pretty common problem with Solinette/Isolette cameras.

Camera is in a very nice condition. Loaded with film right now and ready to train my scale focusing technique

Should be fun

Marcelo

 

[benjiboy]

I dug out the old light seals in one of my Canon F1n's that I bought recently and replaced them, the camera is in incredibly good condition for its age, the light seals were goo.

 

[75suzuki]

I worked on an Ansco Buster Brown 2A, it had a sticky shutter.Seems to be functioning pretty well now. A bit more clean up work and ill test it out.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I worked on an Ansco Buster Brown 2A, it had a sticky shutter.Seems to be functioning pretty well now. A bit more clean up work and ill test it out.

Welcome to APUG

 

[Jeff Bradford]

Today I overhauled a Mamiyaflex Automat A. I still need to calibrate focus on it, but I'm mostly done.

 

[Helios 1984]

I repainted the markings on my Rondinax. The numbers were easy, however, I had a hard time doing the arrow on the knob.

 

[Europan]

Finished service on a Pan-Cinor 8~40, f/1.9, by S. O. M. Berthiot. Iris and focus rings were rather stuck, zooming was alright. Now everything moves freely and smoothly again. Going to sell it, works with Arco CH 803-A Technica, Beaulieu T/M R 8, Christen DB-1/-2, Paillard-Bolex H-8 with critical focuser, and Bell & Howell Filmo 8 TA.

 

[anfenglin]

Completely serviced a Compur-Rapid in an old folder. Good as new now.

 

[Fujicaman1957]

Fixed the back on my Mamiya C330-somehow EVERY screw holding the back latch mechanism on the inside of the back fell out ! Screws had vanished (trust me, I shook the camera over a white sheet of paper and searched the camera back). Took the screws out of a 220 film back for a C33 and used them and used green Loctite on them.

 

[Helios 1984]

I changed the light seals & the mirror bumper on my Spotmatic and also slightly adjusted the tension of the 1st curtain as I felt it was a bit slow (¼ of a turn clockwise). I'm a bit confused, I was convinced that this camera needed a CLA as I tested the speeds several months ago and everything beyond 1/60 wasn't responding.... and now everything is working and within tolerance? Maybe little Japanese cogs just needed a bit of exercise.

 

[Europan]

A 1962 Paillard-Bolex H-8 Reflex, actually I’m still at it.

 

[Robin Guymer]

On a beat up old Nikon F2 glued the battery holder back together, sorted out the wiring short circuit, spent a frustrating 2 hours tweaking the timer back into operation, fitted new felt to a shutter runner on the mirror box, cleaned and lubed, then started reassembly when a driver called with a late delivery at the building site. That spoiled the fun.

 

[nosmok]

Disassembled a stuck, newly arrived Meridian 45b, found the sliders on the front standard had bent from impact (lesson: when transporting your Meridian, make sure the lens is off for long or rough trips, or at least is a small lens). Bent them back carefully in my vise, now it's usable again. Mounted a 6" Kodak #32 Anastigmat ( a tremendous sleeper of a lens BTW) and the whole package works-- even one of the focus scales (the 45b lets you have 3) is spot on.

 

[BainDarret]

I have an 8x10 Burke and James that recently developed a light leak between the back and the camera. I tried painting the various surfaces with matte black paint but it still showed a leak when subjected to the flashlight test. So I got some 2" wide industrial strength velcro and, after removing and saving the hardware, attached 1 side to the camera back and the camera. Then I slit this between the camera and the back. I used the other velcro strip (4'!) to attach the camera to the back. A bit more involved to change from H to V but it is light tight. I just shot and processed a sheet of Delta 100 with the camera under the July sun and NO LEAK!

Mike

 

[MattySingo]

Light seals, finally had a bit of free time to go through a few things I've had for a while and wanted to use:
Nikon F3, Canon AE 1 and 2 Pentax K1000s. Picked up the K1000s a few months apart, one Japanese built, the other late model Chinese made. Art student daughter has already borrowed the older one, will probably sell on the later one and use the profit (hopefully) to buy more cameras.

 

[Robin Guymer]

Finally got some time to reassemble the black Nikon F2. Took a few goes to get the front end back into the body, there are a few levers to line up. Working a treat as it feels and sounds like a new one, which is rewarding considering it was jammed up when purchased. Will test with some film soon so hopefully the shutter speeds are still good. Tempted to tackle the good silver one now.

 

[75suzuki]

Cleaned up an Ansco Pioneer that i paid 6 bucks for. It was truly filthy, but seems to function flawlessly now. Have to run some 120 through it soon.

 

[Helios 1984]

I made leather bumpers out of a Zenit case.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have an after market dark slide holder and film box end holder [to remember which film is is the film back] that would not stay on. The double sided tape was not high enough to maintain adhesion, there were some fit problems with the plastic and the end of the film crank did not fit into the notch. A little time with a Dremel like knock off slightly grinding down some edges and cutting a larger hole for the film winding crank took care of the fitment problems. I then put rubber cement on top of the double stick tape and the dark slide holder is sticking to the back.

 

[Robin Guymer]

The eye piece design of a Nikon F2 DP-1 Finder is prone to splitting in two especially if fitted with a large rubber eye cup. There is no strength in the old plastic to hold the middle circular threaded holder and any knocks against it will cause the crack. The plastic will not stick together successfully as the side screws cause it to bend in the middle. So I have drilled corresponding fine holes into the plastic and inserted a metal dowel with epoxy glue. Then added glue to both halves and squeezed together for 24 hrs. I have also spot glued in the circular eye piece holder to give it some more strength. I'll stick with the small diopter from now on.

 

[Helios 1984]

Currently cleaning my newly acquired Topcon 35-L, the rings were barely moving due to dried gunk. I also repaired the bent filter ring.

Edit: I just finished, the difference is shocking.

Sorru for potato quality pic.

 

[Helios 1984]

I spent most of the evening cleaning sticky shutter of my Topcon 35-L.

Seikosha-MXL leaf shutter unit.