What did you fix today? (part 2)

[Mr Flibble]

Can't have enough laboratory stopwatches

Before:

Rust damage

Epoxy and paint

After: .....it's the one in the middle.

 

[kl122002]

Can't have enough laboratory stopwatches

Before:

How does it looks like, especially the mechanics inside? I love the clockworks and would like to study.

 

[Mr Flibble]

How does it looks like, especially the mechanics inside? I love the clockworks and would like to study.

It's a simplified clock mechanism.

Main spring, driving the gear train, driving the escape wheel, that skips a single tooth every time the balance fork is kicked over by the balance spring/wheel at the top

I still need to tweak the balance spring adjustment a little as the timer is losing a second or 2 per hour at this point.

 

[88E30M50]

Can't have enough laboratory stopwatches

Before:

Rust damage

Epoxy and paint

After: .....it's the one in the middle.

Those turned out really nice. I love seeing old equipment brought back into service.

 

[kl122002]

It's a simplified clock mechanism.

Main spring, driving the gear train, driving the escape wheel, that skips a single tooth every time the balance fork is kicked over by the balance spring/wheel at the top

I still need to tweak the balance spring adjustment a little as the timer is losing a second or 2 per hour at this point.

Ah, that's a really nice clockwork. Still looking good despite the outside has been rusted.

Tuning the sec. is one of the hardest part here in these old and simple-looking gears. Have you cleaned each pivots and given new clock oil ? Try this first.

If you have steady hands and watchmaker 's lope , try checking the flying wheel's pivot ends. (the silver one above) . Sometimes these ends could be worn and need to be reshaped to bring back to order.

 

[Kino]

Top part of UV exposure box completed. Building a collapsible frame to allow for more compact storage. Running out of room in the darkroom...

 

[Mr Flibble]

Ah, that's a really nice clockwork. Still looking good despite the outside has been rusted.

Tuning the sec. is one of the hardest part here in these old and simple-looking gears. Have you cleaned each pivots and given new clock oil ? Try this first.

If you have steady hands and watchmaker 's lope , try checking the flying wheel's pivot ends. (the silver one above) . Sometimes these ends could be worn and need to be reshaped to bring back to order.

Thanks,
I was expected it to have surface rust on everything when I opened it up. But it seems to rust was limited to the bottom of the bezel.
I've cleaned all the pivots and added pinpricks of oil, everything I could reach without tearing it down. The balance wheel pivots looked good so I didn't want to disassemble it, in fear of messing up the spring.
Anyway, I can still play with the spring adjustment a bit, to see if that improves anything.

And a loss of 2 seconds an hour isn't particularly critical for my film developing.

 

[kl122002]

Thanks,
I was expected it to have surface rust on everything when I opened it up. But it seems to rust was limited to the bottom of the bezel.
I've cleaned all the pivots and added pinpricks of oil, everything I could reach without tearing it down. The balance wheel pivots looked good so I didn't want to disassemble it, in fear of messing up the spring.
Anyway, I can still play with the spring adjustment a bit, to see if that improves anything.

And a loss of 2 seconds an hour isn't particularly critical for my film developing.

Perhaps it might be a bit nervous but for old clocks if it lost 2 sec per hour which means 48 sec. for 24 hours. I wonder would that be a bit too much for Junghans ?

Anyway if you have never dissembled any clocks then you better not to. The main spring could be a nightmare and disastrous.

 

[Donald Qualls]

if it lost 2 sec per hour which means 48 sec. for 24 hours.

Few darkroom timings will run longer than an hour, and two parts in 3600 are undetectable with our processes.

Now, if you're keeping time with a clock that gets wound once a week, losing five minutes or more per week is, I agree, unacceptable.

 

[Mr Flibble]

Few darkroom timings will run longer than an hour, and two parts in 3600 are undetectable with our processes.

Now, if you're keeping time with a clock that gets wound once a week, losing five minutes or more per week is, I agree, unacceptable.

This!
A mechanical clock generally shouldn't have an error of more than 6 seconds a day. Watches even less.
There still plenty of wiggle room on the spring adjustment lever, so I'll see about tweaking it in the next few days.

 

[kl122002]

Few darkroom timings will run longer than an hour, and two parts in 3600 are undetectable with our processes.

Now, if you're keeping time with a clock that gets wound once a week, losing five minutes or more per week is, I agree, unacceptable.

This!
A mechanical clock generally shouldn't have an error of more than 6 seconds a day. Watches even less.
There still plenty of wiggle room on the spring adjustment lever, so I'll see about tweaking it in the next few days.

I don't mean to be picky but since it is a Junghans, and I have done some repairing including a timer (a small square-like timer with 3 buttons on the top), their clockworks are quite precise and accurate from my experience. My Junghans trivox silentic alarm clock bought new in 1960s is still running accurately and I only did 1 cleaning service in early 2000.

Mr Fibble,
Just be careful with the Regulator.
Sometimes the spring get old and that has weaken its reflex as it aged.
And since the clock has rust so the springs might have a few rust as well . They could be too small and hardly check by naked eyes. You might need a lope (at least 10x) with good light source to check .
If that 1-2 sec don't brother much then it should be fine . But once you notice the lost sec. is getting much more that means it is not just about the spring, but also the escapements (especially each teeth's ends) might need to pay attention .

 

[Kino]

New bellows for the Korona Whole Plate finally installed and interior woodwork repainted. Removed Packard Shutter; will use it in front of any barrel lenses I decide to try.

The bellows frames fell-apart when extracted from the old bellows, so I had to re-glue them. Trying to decide if I will remove and polish the bright work. Don't know if I want to chance the woodwork falling apart, but the nickel plated steel is pretty dull.

Old bellows in frames to illustrate...

 

[forest bagger]

One of my customers sent me the front plate of a FRANKE & HEIDECKE ROLLEIFLEX 3.5 (he refurbished the body himself) because the aperture was stuck wide open and nearly no shutter speed was working.
So I disassembled the plate and the shutter & aperture cover, cleaned everything from hardened oil and assembled all parts again.

Now it works fine.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

One of my customers sent me the front plate of a FRANKE & HEIDECKE ROLLEIFLEX 3.5 (he refurbished the body himself) because the aperture was stuck wide open and nearly no shutter speed was working.
So I disassembled the plate and the shutter & aperture cover, cleaned everything from hardened oil and assembled all parts again.

View attachment 364080

View attachment 364081

View attachment 364082

Now it works fine.

Very nice, Michael!

I didn't know that you were also dedicated to fully mechanical cameras.

 

[AnselMortensen]

I had an Alphax #4 shutter with a loose, wonky cocking lever.
I bravely opened the shutter, and found that the mounting screw was loose.
I tightened the offending screw, and re-assembled the shutter.
Amazingly enough, the shutter still works! ...and the lever operates properly.

 

[Kino]

I had an Alphax #4 shutter with a loose, wonky cocking lever.
I bravely opened the shutter, and found that the mounting screw was loose.
I tightened the offending screw, and re-assembled the shutter.
Amazingly enough, the shutter still works! ...and the lever operates properly.

Time to hang your shingle out for shutter repairs!

 

[AnselMortensen]

Time to hang your shingle out for shutter repairs!

Definitely not!

 

[Chuck1]

I opened up a compur 00 after watching many videos, wound the mainspring and it started working, I went to close it up and then it stopped, oh well...

 

[kl122002]

The wires, which used for pulling the aperture/shutter combination or metering needle , I found this is quite useful :

Tajima PS-ITOSS Perfect Fine Line for Ink Pots, 99.8 ft (30 m)

It is actually the ink port wire. I have seen much smaller (0.3mm diameter) in the past but now this is the best I can find. Previously I used fisihing wires but now they have gone quite expensive and so I decided to give it a try.

I just used it to fix a Minolta SRT 101 with a broken wire. Now it works nice.

 

[Mr Flibble]

Recreated some vintage Kodak material to go into my US Army portable darkroom set.

Next up, recreating some 8x10 photographic paper envelopes

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Recreated some vintage Kodak material to go into my US Army portable darkroom set.

Next up, recreating some 8x10 photographic paper envelopes

Interesting, are these copies of originals? Do you present the items in a display case?

 

[Mr Flibble]

The covers are based on images of original Kodak ones and the dimensions given in Technical Manual TM 11-400 "Photographic Set PH-261"....

My restoration/recreation of the PH-261 has been covered a few pages ago in this topic.

 

[kl122002]

Anyone know where to find the spacers ? (Not the screw washers)
I am seriously suspecting that the previous technician lost one from the lens barrel that makes a early Super Takumar 55/2 slightly misaligned at infinity.

 

[Mr Flibble]

Anyone know where to find the spacers ? (Not the screw washers)
I am seriously suspecting that the previous technician lost one from the lens barrel that makes a early Super Takumar 55/2 slightly misaligned at infinity.

Any particular size, thickness or material you're looking for? Several outlets sell shims in all shapes and sizes...

 

[bernard_L]

Partial dis-assembly of FD 100/2.8 SSC for

• Cleaning dust on optical surfaces, left from previous intervention on aperture blades;
• Cleaning the breech ring, not turning freely because full of grit/grime.

Very helpful videos by mikeno62. Three screws fastening the breech were quite stiff; must buy proper JIS screwdrivers, because exact fit to the screw is crucial in difficult cases.