Is there any advantage to using multiple cameras in a rotation?
Makes sense that if you have a collection of cameras you want to be sure that there are on working order so putting film and going for a stroll will ensure that they are free of problems, is it there any other reason?
Is there any advantage to using multiple cameras in a rotation?
Makes sense that if you have a collection of cameras you want to be sure that there are on working order so putting film and going for a stroll will ensure that they are free of problems, is it there any other reason?
I collect cameras just because I enjoy them as objects and I enjoy the history behind them. I don't necessarily have all of them for some specific photographic purpose and think of it as an adjacent but separate interest from my photography. Many of the cameras I have do end up getting used at some time or another for some specific purpose that a particular camera just happens to work well for because of its design or whatever I'm trying to do. For example, I've found this Grafelx (and similar models and sizes) to be pretty ideal for a lot of the work that I've done with homemade optics as I mentioned. They're easy to strap the lens to and being an SLR design means that I can directly see what an optic is doing which helps me judge how I might want to modify it further. The focal plane shutter also means I can experiment with all kinds of lenses without worrying about a shutter. Of course there are other cameras that you can do the same thing with. I just like this one for its own reasons. The camera body is also easy to modify being a box design and made of wood. At one point in the past, I removed the entire back assembly where the film gate is and the holders attach and I grafted on a modified Fuji PA-145 that allowed me to shoot the old Fuji FP instant films. It was just good for that particular experiment.
Sluggish shutter... It will need a good cleaning and adjustment.Sluggish lens shutter, or sluggish focal-plane? The focal-plane you can probably adjust yourself (I just finished re-tensioning my RB Series B 2x3), the leaf shutter on the lens may require a CLA.
Baby Speed is a fun little camera. Haven't had too much issue with the ground glass being dark, though.
I'm on the slow process to get my baby speed graphic on fully working condition, the main problem is the sluggish shutter and the ground glass too damn dark!...
If you are set on using that lens with the slow shutter, I'd send the shutter to Carol Flutot for a CLA. And then clean the ground glass and add a fresnel on the outside of it. A fresnel will brighten it considerably. It shouldn't be overly dark anyway with that f3.5 lens. Thats not particularly slow but either way, a fresnel will help a lot.
Is there any advantage to using multiple cameras in a rotation?
Makes sense that if you have a collection of cameras you want to be sure that there are on working order so putting film and going for a stroll will ensure that they are free of problems, is it there any other reason?
Is there any advantage to using multiple cameras in a rotation?
Makes sense that if you have a collection of cameras you want to be sure that there are on working order so putting film and going for a stroll will ensure that they are free of problems, is it there any other reason?
For me, its format, size, and process. My Bronica ETRSi is small and super portable. I can easily carry the camera with mounted lens and film back, three other lenses a second film back, and meter is a moderately small shoulder bag and I get an approximately 1.3:1 aspect ratio. My Bronica GS-1 is heavier so less portable, and I get a squarer aspect closer to 1.15:1. Both of those cameras can be handheld, but lack internal meters and have the same basic process to shoot so between them the choice is size and format.
Sluggish lens shutter, or sluggish focal-plane? The focal-plane you can probably adjust yourself (I just finished re-tensioning my RB Series B 2x3), the leaf shutter on the lens may require a CLA.
Get the AE (AE II, AE III) finder. It makes the camera quicker to use thanks to the autoexposure.
I have the AEIII prism meter, but never use it. I much prefer the WLF.
That C330 I heard has some really good lenses on them for a TLR. My Yashica A lens is rather soft for all the TLRs they made. Not bad, but not as sharp either. The Mamiya TLR keeps up with the Hassy's I hear.
Interesting I always use the prism first because it eliminates the right left [left right] reversal, second because the image is larger, third because there are no glare issues, and forth because I never found staring at my navel interesting nor contemplative.
For me, adding the prism increases bulk and weight, but makes the handling very awkward. To make the handling with the prism less awkward, I have to add the grip, which increases the weight and bulk even more.
I have the AEIII prism meter, but never use it. I much prefer the WLF.
Interesting I always use the prism first because it eliminates the right left [left right] reversal, second because the image is larger, third because there are no glare issues, and forth because I never found staring at my navel interesting nor contemplative.
For me, adding the prism increases bulk and weight, but makes the handling very awkward. To make the handling with the prism less awkward, I have to add the grip, which increases the weight and bulk even more.
Yes, i understand. Maybe since i'm used to the RB67, everything seems light in comparison.
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