What Medium Format Cameras Are Members Here Using?

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Fragomeni

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Is there any advantage to using multiple cameras in a rotation?

Makes sense that if you have a collection of cameras you want to be sure that there are on working order so putting film and going for a stroll will ensure that they are free of problems, is it there any other reason?

I collect cameras just because I enjoy them as objects and I enjoy the history behind them. I don't necessarily have all of them for some specific photographic purpose and think of it as an adjacent but separate interest from my photography. Many of the cameras I have do end up getting used at some time or another for some specific purpose that a particular camera just happens to work well for because of its design or whatever I'm trying to do. For example, I've found this Grafelx (and similar models and sizes) to be pretty ideal for a lot of the work that I've done with homemade optics as I mentioned. They're easy to strap the lens to and being an SLR design means that I can directly see what an optic is doing which helps me judge how I might want to modify it further. The focal plane shutter also means I can experiment with all kinds of lenses without worrying about a shutter. Of course there are other cameras that you can do the same thing with. I just like this one for its own reasons. The camera body is also easy to modify being a box design and made of wood. At one point in the past, I removed the entire back assembly where the film gate is and the holders attach and I grafted on a modified Fuji PA-145 that allowed me to shoot the old Fuji FP instant films. It was just good for that particular experiment.
 

abruzzi

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Is there any advantage to using multiple cameras in a rotation?

Makes sense that if you have a collection of cameras you want to be sure that there are on working order so putting film and going for a stroll will ensure that they are free of problems, is it there any other reason?

For me, its format, size, and process. My Bronica ETRSi is small and super portable. I can easily carry the camera with mounted lens and film back, three other lenses a second film back, and meter is a moderately small shoulder bag and I get an approximately 1.3:1 aspect ratio. My Bronica GS-1 is heavier so less portable, and I get a squarer aspect closer to 1.15:1. Both of those cameras can be handheld, but lack internal meters and have the same basic process to shoot so between them the choice is size and format.

For a very different process I have a Horseman VH, 6x9 camera. Its not much heavier than the GS-1, but it requires a tripod, and you basically shoot it like a large format camera. 6x9 gets you as wide as the normal 35mm frame--1.5:1, which I prefer, but "system camera" SLRs that shoot 6x9 are very rare (I think Plaubel may have made one). So I shoot it when I want to go slow, or want the wider aspect ratio.
 

MrFus

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I collect cameras just because I enjoy them as objects and I enjoy the history behind them. I don't necessarily have all of them for some specific photographic purpose and think of it as an adjacent but separate interest from my photography. Many of the cameras I have do end up getting used at some time or another for some specific purpose that a particular camera just happens to work well for because of its design or whatever I'm trying to do. For example, I've found this Grafelx (and similar models and sizes) to be pretty ideal for a lot of the work that I've done with homemade optics as I mentioned. They're easy to strap the lens to and being an SLR design means that I can directly see what an optic is doing which helps me judge how I might want to modify it further. The focal plane shutter also means I can experiment with all kinds of lenses without worrying about a shutter. Of course there are other cameras that you can do the same thing with. I just like this one for its own reasons. The camera body is also easy to modify being a box design and made of wood. At one point in the past, I removed the entire back assembly where the film gate is and the holders attach and I grafted on a modified Fuji PA-145 that allowed me to shoot the old Fuji FP instant films. It was just good for that particular experiment.

I'm on the slow process to get my baby speed graphic on fully working condition, the main problem is the sluggish shutter and the ground glass too damn dark!...
 

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grat

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Sluggish lens shutter, or sluggish focal-plane? The focal-plane you can probably adjust yourself (I just finished re-tensioning my RB Series B 2x3), the leaf shutter on the lens may require a CLA.

Baby Speed is a fun little camera. Haven't had too much issue with the ground glass being dark, though.
 

MrFus

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Sluggish lens shutter, or sluggish focal-plane? The focal-plane you can probably adjust yourself (I just finished re-tensioning my RB Series B 2x3), the leaf shutter on the lens may require a CLA.

Baby Speed is a fun little camera. Haven't had too much issue with the ground glass being dark, though.
Sluggish shutter... It will need a good cleaning and adjustment.

But it's ok, at the moment the c330 is keeping me busy and focused and that is what the therapist suggested!
 

Down Under

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Rollei TLRs. All my life. I bought my first, a 3.5E2, in 1966, still own it, still use it. A wonderful shooter.

Before that, Yashicas. A 'D I bought in 1962 and finally donated to a camera club in 2016, where I believe it sits in a place of honour in a glass cabinet, admired if not used. Also an 'A' as a back-up, which went a long time ago as it was somewhat too, well, primitive for my liking. I used all these to photograph many weddings, which provided me income to fund my way thru boarding school.

Over the years I've chopped and changed many cameras, but have kept my Rolleiflexes. The latest acquisition to the Club Of Four (the aforesaid 3.5E2, two black-body Ts) in 2019 was a Rolleicord Vb kit I lucked onto by chance, which I love and use often.

With the high price of 120 films nowadays, 16 exposure kits in three of my four are a blessing. I've worked out a way to get one additional image out of every roll, so in fact the kits are 17 exposure ones...

Also own a Zeiss Nettar from 1950 and a Voigtlander Perkeo I, both wonderful shooters, but alas, seldom used now. They get out with me for at least one bush trek a year, tho'. So still valued.
 

Fragomeni

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I'm on the slow process to get my baby speed graphic on fully working condition, the main problem is the sluggish shutter and the ground glass too damn dark!...

If you are set on using that lens with the slow shutter, I'd send the shutter to Carol Flutot for a CLA. And then clean the ground glass and add a fresnel on the outside of it. A fresnel will brighten it considerably. It shouldn't be overly dark anyway with that f3.5 lens. Thats not particularly slow but either way, a fresnel will help a lot.
 

Thwyllo

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I have a Yashicamat somewhere gathering dust, but in addition to a modest collection of mostly Nikon and Konica 35mm film (and a ton of vintage d*g*t*l, I've just bought at auction an absolute mint Bronica SQ AI kit with three lenses, extra backs, prism viewfinder, speed grip and a load of other stuff for a price that wouldnt get you a Yashica T4 (a camera I once bought new but gave away!). Crazy world.
 

grat

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If you are set on using that lens with the slow shutter, I'd send the shutter to Carol Flutot for a CLA. And then clean the ground glass and add a fresnel on the outside of it. A fresnel will brighten it considerably. It shouldn't be overly dark anyway with that f3.5 lens. Thats not particularly slow but either way, a fresnel will help a lot.

My baby Speed has a fresnel. It appears to be OEM, even though it's from 1946. Then again, it also has the graflok back upgrade, so perhaps the fresnel was added.
 
Joined
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Calexico, CA
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Is there any advantage to using multiple cameras in a rotation?

Makes sense that if you have a collection of cameras you want to be sure that there are on working order so putting film and going for a stroll will ensure that they are free of problems, is it there any other reason?

I do the same. I do it for two reasons a) to not get bored and b) different situations call for different cameras. I use my 6x9 for landscapes and a Mamiya c330 for closeups, etc.
 

Sirius Glass

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Is there any advantage to using multiple cameras in a rotation?

Makes sense that if you have a collection of cameras you want to be sure that there are on working order so putting film and going for a stroll will ensure that they are free of problems, is it there any other reason?

Rotating cameras as you posted keeps them all up and running as well as keep you on your toes. I like to carry a color and black & white 35mm cameras with share lenses or if I am using MF multiple interchangeable backs with different films.
 

otto.f

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Aug 18, 2017
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Netherlands
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Tele Rolleiflex Sonnar 135 with Rolleinaren. I must admit I do not use it very much because of the square format and I’m more a street photographer than a portrait worker. I find the colors especially amazing for such an old camera.
I regret having sold my Mamiya 7ii with 65mm, the 6*7 format is more my thing. At the moment the price is insane.
 

Troy Grilli

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Dec 6, 2016
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Orlando, FL
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My go to medium format workhorse is a Pentax 67ii. It's in perfect working order except there's an issue where the film advance lever gets jammed and is a pain to actually advance between shots.
 

flavio81

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Oct 24, 2014
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Lima, Peru
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For me, its format, size, and process. My Bronica ETRSi is small and super portable. I can easily carry the camera with mounted lens and film back, three other lenses a second film back, and meter is a moderately small shoulder bag and I get an approximately 1.3:1 aspect ratio. My Bronica GS-1 is heavier so less portable, and I get a squarer aspect closer to 1.15:1. Both of those cameras can be handheld, but lack internal meters and have the same basic process to shoot so between them the choice is size and format.

Get the AE (AE II, AE III) finder. It makes the camera quicker to use thanks to the autoexposure.
 

flavio81

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Sluggish lens shutter, or sluggish focal-plane? The focal-plane you can probably adjust yourself (I just finished re-tensioning my RB Series B 2x3), the leaf shutter on the lens may require a CLA.

If a FP shutter is too slow or sluggish, it needs to be cleaned and re-lubed again. And afterwards, it might not even need any adjustment on curtain tension.

Incresasing curtain tension without addressing the problem first will end up in greater strain on the camera and will shorten its life.
 

grat

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True. I did kind of assume that other issues in the gear train(s) were taken care of first.

My 2x3 operates very smoothly, and I cleaned and lubed it while I had it apart. My 3x4 needs extensive work before I can even consider re-tensioning it.
 

McDiesel

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Mar 24, 2022
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322
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USA
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Analog
Hasselblad 503cx is the most engaging medium format camera I own. I do not always get best results with it, but I get more satisfaction from using the Hasselblad than any other camera.

Rolleiflex TLRs are my second favorite. They aren't as fun or as ergonomic as the Hasselblad, but they're easier to carry and I get more keepers from them. Doing more with less is real. The 3.5F locks my brain into the 75mm worldview and I end up with better pictures. I get less shake blur with them as well.

Mamiya TLRs are my Rolleiflex backups. They are bulkier, cheaper, but just as capable. I leave more expensive cameras at home and use the Mamiyas when the conditions are rough: beach/sand/rain/smoke. Getting identical results. The "black rim" 80mm Sekor is superb.

Mamiya 645 Pro used to be my portable "travel" camera, but it is not seeing much use these days as I've started to enjoy 35mm again. I feel guilty because it's a wonderful system, and I have almost every lens and every accessory for it, yet it's sitting unused.

Bronica GS-1 was my foray into the 6x7 format. Absolutely gorgeous system with top notch glass, but never gets any use losing to the Hasselblad due to the aforementioned engagement factor. I only shot 2 rolls of film on it last year, vs 50+ on the Hassy.

I have owned other medium format cameras in the past. The ones I parted ways with were mostly rangefinders or/and folders, as I never trusted them with critical focus especially at wider apertures at closer distances.

Frankly, I can't imagine a bad medium format camera. They are all amazing IMO.
 
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Richard Lee

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Dec 31, 2006
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86
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The English Lakes
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Multi Format
Mamiya RZ67 Pro ii
Mamiya C330s
Bronica ETRSi
Yashica mat 124G
Holga 120n
...and a collection of vintage folders too numerous to mention. :surprised:
 

Sirius Glass

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I have the AEIII prism meter, but never use it. I much prefer the WLF.

Interesting I always use the prism first because it eliminates the right left [left right] reversal, second because the image is larger, third because there are no glare issues, and forth because I never found staring at my navel interesting nor contemplative.
 

BMbikerider

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That C330 I heard has some really good lenses on them for a TLR. My Yashica A lens is rather soft for all the TLRs they made. Not bad, but not as sharp either. The Mamiya TLR keeps up with the Hassy's I hear.

Apart from the 55mm wide angle. The one I had was so soft it could be used as a feather bed.
 

abruzzi

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Interesting I always use the prism first because it eliminates the right left [left right] reversal, second because the image is larger, third because there are no glare issues, and forth because I never found staring at my navel interesting nor contemplative.

For me, adding the prism increases bulk and weight, but makes the handling very awkward. To make the handling with the prism less awkward, I have to add the grip, which increases the weight and bulk even more.
 

Sirius Glass

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For me, adding the prism increases bulk and weight, but makes the handling very awkward. To make the handling with the prism less awkward, I have to add the grip, which increases the weight and bulk even more.

So your approach is to get a grip?
 

flavio81

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I have the AEIII prism meter, but never use it. I much prefer the WLF.

Interesting I always use the prism first because it eliminates the right left [left right] reversal, second because the image is larger, third because there are no glare issues, and forth because I never found staring at my navel interesting nor contemplative.

I think exactly the same as Sirius, can't stand the reversal. The only reversal I like is reversal processing.

For me, adding the prism increases bulk and weight, but makes the handling very awkward. To make the handling with the prism less awkward, I have to add the grip, which increases the weight and bulk even more.

Yes, i understand. Maybe since i'm used to the RB67, everything seems light in comparison.
 

abruzzi

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Yes, i understand. Maybe since i'm used to the RB67, everything seems light in comparison.

well, I've mostly stopped shooting 35mm, so at this point the ETRSi is my small portable camera. So I am very focused on maintaining portability. With grip and AEIII prism, the usability of the ETRSi is actually quite nice (I have the manual grip, which came with the camera when I bought it and I also have the smaller power grip which is actually very good.) and I do use it occasionally. I actually really like the ETRSi, and its big brother, the GS-1 (the prism on that is big!) and since 95% of my photos are in landscape orientation, the WLF doesn't bother me. I have taken portrait oriented photos with the WLF handheld, but I wouldn't try that with a live subject. The reversal I got used to reletively quickly, and now seems natural (especially that now most of my photography is upside-down on a 4x5 or larger.)
 
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