What Medium Format Cameras Are Members Here Using?

[Sirius Glass]

Say "someone" owns a 40mm FLE, 60mm, 80mm, 120mm, 180mm, and 250mm - all CF or CFi. Now that prices are really in the tank, is it wrong them to lust after a 50mm FLE? I wonder how much one would use it rather than the 40 or 60.

Asking for a friend...

I found the 60mm lens to be too close to the 80mm lens and I bought the 50mm lens. The 50mm lens is used second only to the 80mm lens. What is wrong with lust? It is a special form of GAS.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Let's see:

1. Hasselblad 503cx. The crown jewel of my collection. This camera is perfect for me because it executes brilliantly in areas that I deeply care about. For example: haptic and acoustic feedback. Everything is positioned where I need it to be and feels just right to touch: the focus rings, the buttons, the leather. It makes an amazingly satisfying sound when a photo is taken or film is advanced. A Hasselblad is extremely engaging to use. I even shoot blanks when I can't find any time for real photography. Of course it uses the perfect negative format: the square. People who need an explanation for why, are not getting it here. Yes, the lenses are all fantastic optically and there's a strong sense of continuity and consistency: optical qualities, the feel, filter sizes across lenses are mostly the same. Also I must mention the vast array of accessories for all kinds of use cases, to this day I continue to discover new Hasselblad toys every once in a while. Still not convinced? Well, consider that it's the only MF film camera that is of metal+leather construction, relatively recently manufactured, of fully mechanical construction, and still serviced by Hasselblad! And finally, it is stunning visually. From the industrial design perspective it's a masterpiece. I've been investing more and more into this platform over the years, amassing two bodies, 4 backs, and every lens produced within the 50-250mm range. To this day I can't believe someone designed a camera so perfectly suited to my personal quirks and idiosyncrasies.

You have such good taste in cameras and are obviously very wise.

 

[Edgy01]

My MF stuff is now just Hasselblad. I have the entire trio—500 EL/M, 503CW, and 903SWC. Lenses are the 40 CFE-IF and 40 CF, 100 CF and 250 CF Superachromat. Am down to just 2-3 120 backs, and a 70mm one. Waiting to get a digital back as big as I can afford! In the meantime I shoot Fujichrome 50 and scan with my rather large Nikon Super Coolscan 8000 ED.

And of course, I have a Hasselblad projector as well as a Zeiss! I love slides!

Dan

 

[Sirius Glass]

My MF stuff is now just Hasselblad. I have the entire trio—500 EL/M, 503CW, and 903SWC. Lenses are the 40 CFE-IF and 40 CF, 100 CF and 250 CF Superachromat. Am down to just 2-3 120 backs, and a 70mm one. Waiting to get a digital back as big as I can afford! In the meantime I shoot Fujichrome 50 and scan with my rather large Nikon Super Coolscan 8000 ED.

And of course, I have a Hasselblad projector as well as a Zeiss! I love slides!

Dan

Your choices indicate that you are a very wise person.

 

[Nokton48]

ELM CFV16 Digital Back 50mm Dist Ready To Roll by Nokton48, on Flickr

Here I've got my Hasselblad EL/M Body playing nicely with my new Hasselblad CFV16 Digital Back. I am finding that I prefer the Standard Central Cross Screen, with a drop-in mask 3D printed in Italy. Easiest to see sharp focus across the entire field using these. I sold off my black T* Distagon years ago, now I have a nice one back in the fold, a 50mm Hood is coming ina few days. Batteries and CF Cards sorted, I have plenty. My olde CDS Meter works great with the CFV16, reads out directly in EV's, which was the idea with the olde lenses. Running the CDS Meter on an MR9 and 386 power combo, it seems to be TTL accurate with the CFV16. This is going to be great FUN, I'm sure I'll be using my Blads more with this fat pixel back. If I like something I might even shoot it on 120 film as a choice! The Rubber Eyecup is from the Kiev 60 Meter Prism, I gathered up a bunch of them, back in my Wedding Daze.

50C ELM CFV16 EI 200 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

50C ELM CFV16 EI 200 by Nokton48, on Flickr

New to me 50mm black C T* Zeiss Distagon, Hasselblad 500 EL/M with Hasselblad CFV16 Digital Back set to EI 200. EV 13.5 metered through the CDS Prism Finder, produced these two results this morning.

 

[Jeremy Mudd]

I've recently added a few Kodak Duaflex IV cameras to my medium format line-up, and the Kodar version definitely punches above its weight limit for what is essentially a box camera with a 3-element lens, adjustable aperture, and zone focusing.

A few recent examples shot on HP5 and developed in Rodinal 1:100 Semi-Stand method.

Jeremy

 

[murdockhendrix]

Bronica EC-TL
Bronica EC
Yashica Mat 124G
Agfa Clack
Zeiss Ikon Box Tengor 54/2

 

[lpt10]

A Mamiya 6 with the 50mm, 75mm and 150mm lenses, a Fuji GS645S (the one with the 60mm lens), and a Noon Pinhole 612/69/66. I have a old Bilora 66 which i still use occasionally for fun. The viewfinder of the Mamiya6 is a delight to use. Bright, contrasty, just beautiful. The one on the GS645, not so much, but the camera is small and light, and the lens sharp. All the Mamiya 6 lenses are sharp, but that 50mm is something spectacular.

 

[henryvk]

I've recently added a few Kodak Duaflex IV cameras to my medium format line-up, and the Kodar version definitely punches above its weight limit for what is essentially a box camera with a 3-element lens, adjustable aperture, and zone focusing.

A few recent examples shot on HP5 and developed in Rodinal 1:100 Semi-Stand method.

Jeremy

Very cool. It's like the American Voigtländer Brilliant/Lubitel.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Kodar version definitely punches above its weight limit for what is essentially a box camera with a 3-element lens, adjustable aperture, and zone focusing.

Even the Kodet versions of these aren't bad for a box camera, but you're right, a scale focus triplet is a better lens than you'd expect for this simple a camera. I've got all four number series (original, II, III, and IV), two with Kodet and two with Kodar. If they were a little easier to load (too tight for trimmed 120 spools) I'd use them more...

Very cool. It's like the American Voigtländer Brilliant/Lubitel.

Only thing it lacks is a coupled focusing viewing lens and ground spot in the bright finder. It's set up like the first Lubitel and earliest Brilliants.

 

[Jeremy Mudd]

Even the Kodet versions of these aren't bad for a box camera, but you're right, a scale focus triplet is a better lens than you'd expect for this simple a camera. I've got all four number series (original, II, III, and IV), two with Kodet and two with Kodar. If they were a little easier to load (too tight for trimmed 120 spools) I'd use them more...



Only thing it lacks is a coupled focusing viewing lens and ground spot in the bright finder. It's set up like the first Lubitel and earliest Brilliants.

Agreed on the Kodet lens version - only problem I've found with it is that it suffers badly from pin-cushion distortion. It's still a better option than many box cameras out there though. I actually did a test of the Kodar vs Kodet version taking the same images with both cameras, which is on my website. The Kodar is definitely sharper, but that's to be expected.

I've given up on cutting/trimming 120 spools. I have a decent supply of old metal 620 spools so I roll my own from 120 stock. It takes me about 5 minutes in the dark room to roll the 120 film onto another 120 spool, then re-roll it onto a 620. On days when my arthritis in my right hand (old injury from BMX racing) acts up, it can be a bit of a pain literally after 2 to 3 rolls.

I like the way the Duaflex cameras load with the little swing-out cradle for the feed side. Its a nice touch. And for a box camera the roller is a pleasant surprise.

I think the IV's look the best out of the line, but I'd also like to have a nice III in the Kodar version. I like the black leatherette look on it and the fact that it still has real strap mounts.

Jeremy

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

I love my Mamiya RB67 Pro, except for the stupid red dot that tells whether I advanced the film or not especially from one shooting session to the next. I can never remember. I hate to say how many shots I skipped over on the film to prevent shooting a duplicate. How do you deal with memory loss and red dots? Oh, then there's that little slider that you have to move before advancing the film. Sliders and red dots invented by a sadist.

 

[Jeremy Mudd]

I love my Mamiya RB67 Pro, except for the stupid red dot that tells whether I advanced the film or not especially from one shooting session to the next. I can never remember. I hate to say how many shots I skipped over on the film to prevent shooting a duplicate. How do you deal with memory loss and red dots? Oh, then there's that little slider that you have to move before advancing the film. Sliders and red dots invented by a sadist.

There's a fix for that - a ProS or ProSD.

To me the ProSD is the best version of the RB67 series and that's why I have a couple of SD bodies and several backs.

Jeremy

 

[analogwisdom]

I use and love my Bronica SQ-Ai system and the PS lenses.

 

[ic-racer]

 

[SIG970]

Me too!

Bronica S
Hasselblad 503cx
Rolleiflex T
Rolleiflex 3.5
Rolleiflex 2.8f
Ansco Readyflash
Kalloflex
RB67
Pentacon Six TL
Zeiss Ikon Nettar
Vermeer 617 (pinhole)

How do you feel the Kalloflex compares to the Rolleiflexes?

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Just offloaded all my RZ67 gear because I had multiple bodies with serial failures. I’ve switched over to a Pentax 67 outfit so we’ll see how that goes for a 6x7 sized SLR with the specialized lenses available and macro capability (I know you can in theory do limited macro with a Rollei but it’s not the same, and it’s a pain in the ass).

Otherwise, I’m still using the following in no particular order:
Holga 120N
Lomo LCA120
Lomo Belair X-6/12
Rolleiflex 2.8E
Tele Rolleiflex
Kodak Chevron
Vermeer pinhole 6x18

i have a few others but they don’t get used so I don’t count them.

 

[guangong]

Hasselblad 2000 FCM (replaced doomed 1000F)
Hasselblad CM
Rollei 2.8F
ZI Super Ikonta B (postwar)
ZI Super Ikonta A (coated Tessa)
Plaubel Makina 67
Fuji GF 670
Kodak Medalist I
Of the above list, the most comfortable to use are the Hassys and Rollei, but each of the remainder have their particular advantages (format, portability, etc.).

 

[uranylcation]

RZ67 and GX680
Problem is I spend more time, a lot more, staring at them than shooting with them

 

[Pieter12]

View attachment 349063

+1

 

[Vaughn]

I just spent an enjoyable month in Japan visiting one son who has been (and still) working/living in Tokyo for the past 3 or 4 years. My other son (grad student at UBC in Vancouver) joined us. I took my Rolleicord III with me and enjoyed using it. At 830 grams (30 ounces), along with a otherwise too short carbon fiber tripod (great for waist-lever finder) at about a kilo made for a nice light-weight quality set-up. Often carried on the tripod if actively looking for images, but put the camera in the over-the-shoulder bag (with light meter, film, etc) if just trying to keep up with the two boys (who, in general, were very patient with the old man).

Lost my beat-up, taped-up, Rollei lens shade somewhere along the way, but towards the end of the trip. Exposed 16 rolls -- have the first 4 loaded on reels and in tanks, ready to develop. I took the camera for a month in Scotland last Spring -- judging by the negs, I tended to over-expose a stop (have not tested the shutter speeds). So I kept the yellow filter on the camera most of the time this trip and did not adjust exposure for it...although I took the filter off a few times in low light or if I thought the filter would alter the light in a manner I did not want.

The 'Cord in the wild...

 

[IMoL]

I just spent an enjoyable month in Japan visiting one son who has been (and still) working/living in Tokyo for the past 3 or 4 years. My other son (grad student at UBC in Vancouver) joined us. I took my Rolleicord III with me and enjoyed using it. At 830 grams (30 ounces), along with a otherwise too short carbon fiber tripod (great for waist-lever finder) at about a kilo made for a nice light-weight quality set-up. Often carried on the tripod if actively looking for images, but put the camera in the over-the-shoulder bag (with light meter, film, etc) if just trying to keep up with the two boys (who, in general, were very patient with the old man).

Lost my beat-up, taped-up, Rollei lens shade somewhere along the way, but towards the end of the trip. Exposed 16 rolls -- have the first 4 loaded on reels and in tanks, ready to develop. I took the camera for a month in Scotland last Spring -- judging by the negs, I tended to over-expose a stop (have not tested the shutter speeds). So I kept the yellow filter on the camera most of the time this trip and did not adjust exposure for it...although I took the filter off a few times in low light or if I thought the filter would alter the light in a manner I did not want.

The 'Cord in the wild...

I do really like the Rolleicord as a travel camera. It's so easy to carry all day in a small bag that doesn't get in the way when doing non-photography things. Of course the results are great as well!

I did a couple of weeks in Italy last year with only the Rolleicord Vb and have been really happy with the results.

 

[cowanw]

Anything I sold I needed in less than 2 weeks time.

 

[hoomuzzz]

Bronica Deluxe
Bronica Model C (C2)

The Bronica Model C is really a cost-effective choice and friendly to newcomers. The Deluxe is underestimated as a competitor to Hasselblad of its time. Hopefully I'll get a Hasselblad one day.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Bronica Deluxe
Bronica Model C (C2)

The Bronica Model C is really a cost-effective choice and friendly to newcomers. The Deluxe is underestimated as a competitor to Hasselblad of its time. Hopefully I'll get a Hasselblad one day.

Once you own a Hasselblad body, it just takes more time between purchasing each lenses, but you will get all the lenses that you want eventually.