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Donald Qualls

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If there's any resources out there how to adjust a the Kiev's framing spacing I'd give it a try.

The spacing is set by a cam plate you can see under the sliding cover. If you aren't getting the counter correctly set to zero when you load, that will cause overlaps. The easiest way I know to fix overlaps, though, is to put a wrap or two of tape on the spool core before loading the cassette. You could also advance a couple more frames before resetting the counter.

Either way increases the core diameter, which will increase the amount of film advanced (Kiev is a turns-counting mechanism), and increase spacing throughout the roll. If you have spacing that increases through the roll, us thinner film (slit from 120 instead of 35mm, for instance); vice versa use thicker film to prevent late-roll overlaps (slit from 35mm). Film thickness interacts with initial core diameter, too -- the bigger your core, the more film builds up as you advance (because it'll advance further), so the less your spacing will shorten (or the more it'll increase),

And then there are Minolta cassettes in a Kiev; the larger core will result in wide spacing, possibly running out of film before the counter runs out.
 

Cholentpot

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The spacing is set by a cam plate you can see under the sliding cover. If you aren't getting the counter correctly set to zero when you load, that will cause overlaps. The easiest way I know to fix overlaps, though, is to put a wrap or two of tape on the spool core before loading the cassette. You could also advance a couple more frames before resetting the counter.

Either way increases the core diameter, which will increase the amount of film advanced (Kiev is a turns-counting mechanism), and increase spacing throughout the roll. If you have spacing that increases through the roll, us thinner film (slit from 120 instead of 35mm, for instance); vice versa use thicker film to prevent late-roll overlaps (slit from 35mm). Film thickness interacts with initial core diameter, too -- the bigger your core, the more film builds up as you advance (because it'll advance further), so the less your spacing will shorten (or the more it'll increase),

And then there are Minolta cassettes in a Kiev; the larger core will result in wide spacing, possibly running out of film before the counter runs out.

The counter actually does something rather than count? My shots overlap quite a bit, the spacing doesn't get farther on later shots. I'll try the core trick on my next roll.
 

Donald Qualls

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The counter actually does something rather than count?

Yes. As the counter moves, that pin that follows the outside controls how far the spool rotates for each advance stroke. Like any turns-counter, the camera has to account for the thickness of the film. These were originally made for 1970s vintage 16mm single perf cine film, so in theory they'll work right with that without adjustment -- but I've never used mine with that stock. For the Copex Rapid I've used (which was very thin) I had to put three turns of thin masking tape on the core and the spacing still got shorter as the roll went.
 

Donald Qualls

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Hence the option to advance a couple extra strokes before resetting the counter at the roll start.
 

ciniframe

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Yep, know what you mean about the Kiev. Had one about 15 years ago but it just wasn’t quite right. The negs didn’t have the resolution I’ve seen in some sample pictures. So I have held off getting another one because if there is a problem I doubt the vendor would be able to help even if he was willing to exchange it. The return shipping would be ruinous.
Oh well, the trials of subminiature photography. If you are going to try it then I should accept the limitations.
 

Donald Qualls

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What I paid for my Kiev 30 and 303, the two cassettes each included would bring now. If there were a practical way to alter or replace the drive fork in a Minolta to use Kiev cassettes, they'd be worth even more.
 

ciniframe

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Yes, my Kiev 30 was cheap back then maybe $20 with shipping. But now prices seem to be running $40-$50 with shipping and 4-8 week ship times. Plus now the states have found a way to collect sales tax which is 9.5% where I live.
 

Cholentpot

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Yes, my Kiev 30 was cheap back then maybe $20 with shipping. But now prices seem to be running $40-$50 with shipping and 4-8 week ship times. Plus now the states have found a way to collect sales tax which is 9.5% where I live.

I got mine for $18 shipped. This was two months ago

The Pentax showed up. May the battle begin!


Clean copy. And a lens hood? All sorts of goodies show up with these, mine came with a 2x tele extender. I wonder what it can do in your capable hands.
 

Huss

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Well... just finished the first roll. The camera hung up twice on that roll (mirror goes up, shutter stays open). Batteries are good.
Then dry fired it for a while, thinking that maybe it needs to be exercised. Now it's actually much worse. Hangs up most shots.
Pressing the little button next to the flash socket on the top left releases the shutter and mirror.

Hmm. Right now the score is Rollei A110 1 Pentax 0....
 

Cholentpot

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Well... just finished the first roll. The camera hung up twice on that roll (mirror goes up, shutter stays open). Batteries are good.
Then dry fired it for a while, thinking that maybe it needs to be exercised. Now it's actually much worse. Hangs up most shots.
Pressing the little button next to the flash socket on the top left releases the shutter and mirror.

Hmm. Right now the score is Rollei A110 1 Pentax 0....

Happens to me occasionally. Try taking off the lens and putting it back on a few times. I think the lens causes the lockup. Also shooting confusing dark scenes.
 

Huss

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This happens in any lighting.
On Pentaxforums someone posted:


I have found this bit in the service manual:

"If the shutter hangs open until you remove the batteries, try pushing down on the auto/manual switch pin on the top cover. If the shutter then closes, the problem is poor contact in the auto/manual switch.

That is exactly what is happening to mine. Need to figure out how to clean that contact.
 

Cholentpot

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This happens in any lighting.
On Pentaxforums someone posted:


I have found this bit in the service manual:

"If the shutter hangs open until you remove the batteries, try pushing down on the auto/manual switch pin on the top cover. If the shutter then closes, the problem is poor contact in the auto/manual switch.

That is exactly what is happening to mine. Need to figure out how to clean that contact.

I can shoot the camera in manual mode? If you learn a solution clue me in. My camera hangs up occasionally.
 

Huss

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I can shoot the camera in manual mode? If you learn a solution clue me in. My camera hangs up occasionally.

That manual mode is the sync speed for the flash. When it is pushed in it sets the speed to 1/60 sec. But you have no control over the aperture or even knowing what aperture is being used.

It seems this is a very common issue/fault with this camera, which is even why Pentax mentions it in the service manual.
 

Cholentpot

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Kiev 30, Kodak HQ Link Microfilm, Rodinal 1:175 1.5 hours

f/4.5 1/60

95ywRlD.jpg


x59ebM6.jpg


DF6j28l.jpg
 

Cholentpot

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Keiv 30, Microfilm

3ghEBVP.jpg


cF59u9m.jpg


RTSYS02.jpg


I let more light in for this roll. Maybe a little too much. The lens tends to vignette hard when it's below 5.6 but the lens seems capable of decent sharpness.
 

Cholentpot

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Much better results than from your Minolta.

Yes.

I suspect I can do even better. I think the issue with these cameras (minolta 16, kiev30) is shutter jar. The below 1/60 you really are going to have a shaky camera. You need a moderately fast film but low enough grain to resolve nicely. So far the ISO400 stuff doesn't resolve very well and the microfilm at ISO 25 is a little too slow. Now, I'm going to test out the Minolta again but this time with microfilm and stopped down and see how it resolves. I suspect the Minolta has a sharper lens if treated right. I know it doesn't vignette nearly as much as the Kiev.

Here's the Minolta with Hp5+ from a few years back

3nTWuHB.jpg


AsBfMJp.jpg


I recall that I scanned these with an ever slightly sharper lens. I scan with an EF 100 2.8 Macro. These Hp5+ were scanned with a Micro Nikkor 55 and extension tube. When I tried tubes with the 100mm the IQ degraded. I might need to find better tubes for the 100mm though. Not sure what to look for.
 

Donald Qualls

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You need a moderately fast film but low enough grain to resolve nicely.

That sounds like a contest between T-Max 100 and XP2 Super.
 

Kino

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Humor me, for I have a crazy question...

IF someone made Minolta or Mamiya or fill-in-the-blank film cassettes out of machined aluminum, would it be worth the cost to a dedicated user?

They should be practically indestructible and reusable,

How costly before it becomes too costly? $25? $35, ??? (USD)

Just gathering wool; no prospects for building them...
 

Donald Qualls

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IF someone made Minolta or Mamiya or fill-in-the-blank film cassettes out of machined aluminum, would it be worth the cost to a dedicated user?

Not to me. I've got plastic Minolta cassettes that i bought with film in them in the 1980s, they're still in good condition. They also still work properly with the bridge completely removed, just loaded as supply chamber and takeup chamber (though handling them after loading the cassette and before installing into the camera must require some care).

Now, where you might be able to make some sales that would pay for your time and effort is if you could make an affordable takeup spool for a Franka/Edixa (et al) 16 -- very good and very reasonably priced, except that they're almost always missing the takeup spool, and you can't just go on eBay and find one like you can for a Contax or Kiev 35mm RF. Even the supply cassettes (Rada?) aren't as hard to find as the takeup spools.
 
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