110/16mm Camera Image Quality

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Donald Qualls

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They're pre-exposed during confectioning. There were similar frame lines on 126 film, also.
 

Donald Qualls

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I don't know that Kodak ever explained why. I've always presumed it was a guide for printing, since almost all cameras in both formats expose at least a bit into the frame lines. Must have been something new for 126, though, because 828 was the same width and had the same 1 perf per frame (for advance stop, and for shutter enable in some cameras) and never (AFAIK) had frame lines.
 

MattKing

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I expect it made it much easier to totally automate the printing machines that were used by labs.
Compare it with 35mm slides - the slide mounting machines had to be semi-automatic, because some cameras would space frames inconsistently, and photographers have/had the infuriating habit of shooting part of a roll, rolling the film back into the cassette, and then reloading and finishing the film, with a likely change in the frame spacing.
 
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Mamiya 16 De Luxe 1/10s @ f4, handheld
Kodak 3383 filtered w/ 85b + C-41 film base
developed ECP-2 (as a negative)

3383_snap.jpg
 
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I recently found a Minolta 16ii 110 SLR locally, fully functional w/ accessories. I don't have any proper 110 film/cassettes yet, so I've had to resort to musket-style single frame loads of 16mm to test the camera.

Minolta 16ii 110 SLR; f4 @ 1/125s
FPP Sonic 12 reversal, D-19 3'
Photographed on a lightbox
_m110slrii_125sf4_sonic12_d19rev.jpg


Basically an all-in-one 110 SLR: zoom lens, macro focus, hot shoe, self timer, aperture priority auto (1/1000-1/4s), fixed 1/125s flash/'manual' mode, and bulb. It shares the same 40.5mm filter thread as my Nikon 1 digital lenses, which is a nice coincidence.

I hear the first version has an electronic shutter that will do much longer automatic exposures (up to 30s? edit: nope, 10s... down to EV 1) while this version maxes out at 1/4s. I'd probably opt for bulb in that situation anyway

The camera came with an old xerox as well, seemingly plucked from a camera magazine of the day.
_img841.jpg
 
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I finally shot and developed another roll in the Rollei E110. Sadly, this is not from that roll. I had a light leak. I think it is fixed with some black nail polish. Maybe the next roll will be decent. Here is one from last year. Turned out ok. Fujifilm Super HR developed in Rodinal 1+50. I did buy some Agfa microfilm a few months back maybe I'll give that a go at some point.

2021-043-13.jpg
 

mtnbkr

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Some shots from my first roll of 110 in nearly 40 years. :D

Lomo Purple in a Rollei A110:

000423910005.jpg


000423910011.jpg


000423910016.jpg


000423910024.jpg
 
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Very nice results, welcome back to the sub club. The lomo purple gives an IR look to the foliage.

Handheld Mamiya-16 w/ filtered 3383 from a while ago and developed as a negative.

Positive scan -> Invert -> more orange mask! (added a 2nd inversion to show corrected positive filtration)

3383_3s.jpg

3383_3ns.jpg
 
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Huss

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Very nice results, welcome back to the sub club. The lomo purple gives an IR look to the foliage.

Handheld Mamiya-16 w/ filtered 3383 from a while ago and developed as a negative.

Positive scan -> Invert -> more orange mask! (added a 2nd inversion to show corrected positive filtration)

View attachment 307671
View attachment 307722

Those actually are very sweet triptychs.
 

Huss

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It's so easy to burn through 110 film! I loaded a cartridge and used it up in 30 mins. What I would normally ignore with a serious camera I just snap away with 110. Because -oh hey that looks fun!
And it really helps if u have something like a Pentax Auto110 or Rollei A110 that gives sweet results.
 
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The first reloaded 110 cassette sans backing paper in the Minolta Mk II was a partial success. Film advances, shutter cocks, and the exposure happens. The camera back (and cassette) are unsurprisingly not light tight, even with the windows foiled over. Exposures from yesterday were fogged, but not unsalvageably so. I did 2 extra advances between frames, but it looks like one is sufficient for proper frame spacing.

110res.jpg


The sprocket feeler also scratches the film, so I may trying re-using some backing paper on my next attempt. Using ortho film makes practicing reloading sooooo much easier.

Edit: On second thought the backing paper will won't fix the scratches. The feeler faces the emulsion side... its just not designed for 16mm sprockets.

FPP Sonic 25 in 110 cassette (100 ISO), +2 exposure comp
D-19 reversal 6'

110bberys.jpg


Same as above, but fogged. Dmax/contrast got smushed but it yields better shadow detail. I'll refer to this effect as 'serendipitous post-flashing' rather than fog... heh. I prefer reversing this stock @ ISO 12 anyway, so the extra light was kinda nice.

110_fpp25_d9rev_fogs.jpg


Protip: You can get longer lengths of scotch tape with a narrower width of ~13mm (1/2in) instead of the usual 19mm (3/4in). Very handy for attaching 16mm wide film onto take-up spools / leader.
 
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