Mick Fagan
Subscriber
Epson V800 scanner is still available as well, at least in Australia anyway.
I have the V800.
I have the V800.
i scan 4x5 on a v600 all the time. Works great. Just gotta make sure to do it correctly. It’s a little bit of working around the limitations of the system but the end results are comparable to the v850.
It’s not for everyone but if you are budget constrained you can easily get images that are just about as good for something like a fifth of the price.
There's really no need to pay for expensive drum scans to get every last bit of information out of a sheet of 4x5 because there's really no use for a 560 Megapixel image file. There is no application that an everyday stills photographer would ever be able to make use of that many pixels.
I just had my local lab process some of my first 4x5 E6 film I've ever shot. A couple of the positives came out great, so I asked for them to be scanned on their imacon scanner (not sure on model specifics). The files are something like 42 megabytes for just two scans (seems really small). They honestly look really disappointing in terms of resolution. They completely fall apart at 200% on photoshop and it looks almost worse than some 35mm I've seen scanned.
What am I missing here? I've heard nothing but good things about imacon/hasselblad quality, although I know real drums scans are far superior...
Should I just pay for pricey drum scans? I want to print at least 16x20
Thanks
Obviously that's the OP's decision as he did say he was disappointed with the resolution of the scan. I would be too if I'm only getting 1600dpi scans from such a big glorious piece of film.
OP got 600dpi, 8bit (premium!) scans.
I'm curious for those using the V850 if you've ever seen artifacts of uneven illumination. I had one briefly and ended up returning it because uniform areas like properly exposed skies would show very perceptible diffuse lines of more or less intensity parallel to the orientation of the scanning bed. I guessed that may have been related to the switch from cold-cathode illumination to an LED array, and that my unit might have been missing or have a misplaced diffusing component or something. I ended up with a V700 which has been fine, but I've been curious about this - the degree of unevenness I saw was enough that people in this thread at least would have been all over it.
Saving files in jpeg with too high of compression will cause bands in the sky. What settings are you using.
Sorry, I wasn't looking for troubleshooting advice, just thought I'd mention the phenomenon I saw and see if anyone else had seen it.
I sent the helpful people at Epson scans of different formats of film from 35mm to 4x5 and at different orientations to the scanning bed. 35mm frames had 4 or 5 parallel bands, 120 had 8 or 9, 4x5 even more, etc. They agreed it was abnormal and RMA'd the scanner.
If you're interested in seeing the thing I'm talking about --
Again, not looking for troubleshooting advice, this was resolved years ago. Sorry, it was just an off the cuff query, and I did not want to derail this thread.
I really enjoyed looking through those photos. Curious, surreal, but also very tasteful. Thanks.
Watching this thread. I'm either buying a GFX100 or an Imacon 949 this year. Can't buy both. I love Imacon scans but it seems like GFX negative "scans" would have a lot more flexibility if the capture quality can be made equal, especially the ability to tweak the light source. Currently looking into enlarger and macro lens solutions.
Imacon scans seem better suited for some images but not others. I have some drum scanning experience but I don't want to wet mount and production time is way too slow.
Watching this thread. I'm either buying a GFX100 or an Imacon 949 this year. Can't buy both. I love Imacon scans but it seems like GFX negative "scans" would have a lot more flexibility if the capture quality can be made equal, especially the ability to tweak the light source. Currently looking into enlarger and macro lens solutions.
If you let me offer unsolicited advice: you are not going to be happy with the GFX100. The reason is that there are no suitable lenses for scanning film available for that mount. Fuji doesn't offer a 1:1 flat-field macro with auto-focus, so you'll be stuck with legacy medium format macro lenses with manual focus and an adapter. Spoiler alert: there are just 4 to choose from. None of them, unless you're willing to drop another $5K on something like this, will be able to take advantage of that glorious sensor [1]. After several months of buying/selling/returning/researching/testing I gave up and sold my GFX and got the Sony A7R IV with Sigma Art 100mm Macro. That's a major step up from GFX and I am convinced it's the best setup for scanning film under $10K at the moment, and it wipes the floor with Imacons (scanning speed and image quality) for 35mm. If you're willing to stitch dual-shot scans, it destroys Imacons for medium and large format as well, assuming you find a way to keep film flat. My suggestion is to spend on Negative Supply film holders and adopt a flat film drying routine.
[1] All GFX lenses suffer from two problems: corner performance (and that applies to Fuji's 1:2 macro with rings) due to uneven focus field and manual focus errors. These issues with legacy lenses aren't visible on lower resolution platforms, but get exposed by that glorious 102MP beast.
If you let me offer unsolicited advice: you are not going to be happy with the GFX100. The reason is that there are no suitable lenses for scanning film available for that mount. Fuji doesn't offer a 1:1 flat-field macro with auto-focus, so you'll be stuck with legacy medium format macro lenses with manual focus and an adapter. Spoiler alert: there are just 4 to choose from. None of them, unless you're willing to drop another $5K on something like this, will be able to take advantage of that glorious sensor [1]. After several months of buying/selling/returning/researching/testing I gave up and sold my GFX and got the Sony A7R IV with Sigma Art 100mm Macro. That's a major step up from GFX and I am convinced it's the best setup for scanning film under $10K at the moment, and it wipes the floor with Imacons (scanning speed and image quality) for 35mm. If you're willing to stitch dual-shot scans, it destroys Imacons for medium and large format as well, assuming you find a way to keep film flat. My suggestion is to spend on Negative Supply film holders and adopt a flat film drying routine.
[1] All GFX lenses suffer from two problems: corner performance (and that applies to Fuji's 1:2 macro with rings) due to uneven focus field and manual focus errors. These issues with legacy lenses aren't visible on lower resolution platforms, but get exposed by that glorious 102MP beast.
which four medium-format macro lenses are you referring to?
Obviously I'm a bit biased, but maybe my thoughts on the matter are still somewhat useful:
for people who have enough time on their hand and enjoy the process of learning something new, scanning on your own is the better option, hands down. you get exactly what you want and it's much cheaper if you do it regularly.
this is especially true for large format, where one can buy affordable scanners that can deliver very good results.
for people who would rather spend their time on taking photographs or who find computer work a nuisance, outsourcing the postproduction seems the better option.
also, the really good scanners needed to for high quality on smaller film formats tend to be expensive.
the problem here is finding a place that fits your requirement for quality and budget. most cheap options simply can't invest the time needed for really good results.
lets's take for example your scan for a 16x20" print:
the scan itself can be done in like 15minutes on a very affordable scanner, so one would would expect that can easily be done cheaply.
but if you want to provide a really good results, you first need a 20minute phone call or three emails to find out the special needs and preferences of the photographer, then do the scan, then do the dust spotting (in this case on an Epson you could use automated ICE, but that also needs to be carefully applied), then send out a version for approval, then make adjustments, then send out the final scan, then pack up the film safely and send it back, and send an invoice and hope it gets paid.
obviously that's not possible for 20 bucks.
my experience is that not many people have the budget to pay for a truly dedicated service, which is why most labs have to go for the good enough approach to keep costs lower.
Which lenses did you try on the GFX besides the GF Macro?If you let me offer unsolicited advice: you are not going to be happy with the GFX100. The reason is that there are no suitable lenses for scanning film available for that mount. Fuji doesn't offer a 1:1 flat-field macro with auto-focus, so you'll be stuck with legacy medium format macro lenses with manual focus and an adapter. Spoiler alert: there are just 4 to choose from. None of them, unless you're willing to drop another $5K on something like this, will be able to take advantage of that glorious sensor [1]. After several months of buying/selling/returning/researching/testing I gave up and sold my GFX and got the Sony A7R IV with Sigma Art 100mm Macro. That's a major step up from GFX and I am convinced it's the best setup for scanning film under $10K at the moment, and it wipes the floor with Imacons (scanning speed and image quality) for 35mm. If you're willing to stitch dual-shot scans, it destroys Imacons for medium and large format as well, assuming you find a way to keep film flat. My suggestion is to spend on Negative Supply film holders and adopt a flat film drying routine.
[1] All GFX lenses suffer from two problems: corner performance (and that applies to Fuji's 1:2 macro with rings) due to uneven focus field and manual focus errors. These issues with legacy lenses aren't visible on lower resolution platforms, but get exposed by that glorious 102MP beast.
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