Right now I'm relying on the onboard VR. But I'm still a bit struggling on the best way to connect the battery. I have connected it to the GND and VIN port so to use the onboard VR, but I'm using 3 AA batteries, which results in 3x 1.5V = 4.5V.
From what I understand, the input power on the VIN port should be in the range of 7 to 12 volts. I could switch to a 9V battery, but that has a fairly short lifespan from what I understand?
I also could keep the 3x AA and use a converter to get a steady 5V output (and use the 5V port on the Arduino), but can I power the lasers and receivers directly from the converter (with the little breadboard)?
Hi ic,
have been watching your posts on the professional tester thread. Nice build. Must have taken a lot of dedication to get all the parts built.
Yep nicking the 3d printed receiver box from that thread would work. Would be nice to have a 3d printed box for my lasers as well, a 6mm tube could be incorporated inside, so the laser could just slot in.
It was really technically very simple to make. All the surface components come attached to the boards. A lot of it just plugs together with connectors.
If you have any interest in building one, I can send you a set of PC boards (the minimum order was 5 each) and some other miscellaneous parts that had to be purchased in multiples.
And you can always sunny-16 them to check how they behave.I probably won't peruse the light-meter. Although mine all works ok,
Yes, but the shutter speeds the meter shows will be just ever slightly off as it lists the speeds as 1/60, 1/125, 1/250 and not the usual 1/50, 1/100, 1/200 found on leaf shutters.
But unless you're a picky zone system aficionado (not even the regular zone system aficionados), you won't see any important difference, especially at the higher speeds.
Can anybody please enlighten me? I've got the tester ready to go and tested my first camera. It's a camera I've used quite a lot, so I know the shutter speeds are within tolerance (at least within my acceptable tolerance, I only shoot B&W). So, not very suprising, all the shutterspeeds (accept 1s) are spot on, but the faster shutterspeeds (1/250, 1/500 and 1/1000) give me a weird result. The speed of the second laser is almost twice the speed of the first laser. It doesn't matter how many times I try, this is a very consistent result. I tested it with another camera (same story, used it quite a lot) and it gives me roughly the same result.
What could be the cause of this?
Hi CDSnapper,
Thanks to you dad for writing the building blog. We did communicate via PM & I am told CDSnapper Senior is 84 years old. I copied the blog text below, for others to read. Hope this is ok. Pictures can be found in the PDF.
This is by far the best looking yet. It looks similar to my idea, with having two boxes, containing the electronics, to stop them getting knocked out of alignment.
The only suggestion I would make, is to try to reduce the holes for the rx. It is a shame this was not done during the original build by using 1mm holes in the perspex.. Some have found, that at higher shutter speeds, displayed shutter speed will read lower. This we think is due to the beam width being proportionately wider as the curtain slot gets narrower.
You could get some thin black plasticard and make washers with a 0.8mm or 1mm hole drilled in them & then place on the front of the box, over the 6mm rx holes.
Having LEDs to show laser alignment is a good idea, it is a shame the circuit did not quite work. In the STM32 version, it includes a laser alignment routine. There will be more added to the STM32 version in the future, including hotshoe attachment for flash sync confirmation & anything else I can think of. It would be easy to add LED output to work in sync with the laser rx.
There is no memory left in the Arduino/Nano version for anymore development, so cannot add anything else. I may change the display slightly, to show one decimal place in the mS display, rather than rounding to the the nearest whole number.
Once again, thanks to your father for the build log.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Build a shutter tester for Focal Plane shutters - Cheap, Easy & it Works
Hi there, and thanks everyone, especially Niglyn for the software and all the info that
went towards my interpretation of his design.
My son is a bit of a camera enthusiast and has a number of old film cameras that he
has purchased on-line and managed to get working, but was unable to check the shutter
speeds of the focal plane cameras: he mentioned this to me and as I used to be an electronics
engineer but retired for some 20 years, I rashly volunteered to build him one, and found this
one during a on-line search.
What I eventually came up with was this:-
The process of getting there was a little fraught, but the results were worth it.
I thought that a system that could check vertical as well as horizontal shutters would be useful
so the design then incorporated a third laser in the middle of the other horizontal lasers but
10mm higher to that end I made this jig as I knew that the spacing would need to be repeated
a number of times. The holes are 6mm in diameter, which was the same as the brass barrels of
the lasers
Using the jig above, I made two more very similar objects from some 6mm MDF, one was
glued with hot glue (darned useful at times ) to one end of a piece of aluminium and the other
square to it some 100mm away.
With a paper target, with the same dimensions printed on it at abou
interference fit into the MDF. It was then just a case of adjusting the lasers to shine through
the holes of the second jig and onto the paper target and again securing into position with hot
glue. (steady hands needed) When the glue had fully hardened it was not difficult to to
remove the lasers from the ali backing, ready to be fitted to the display box.
The original jig would again be used to drill the holes in the front of the display box, in the
centre and towards the bottom. Quite a lot of time was expended, determining the height of
the shutter window of a series of different cameras, but varied in my case between 20 and
25mm above the LEGO sled that was below, which turned out not to be necessary.
Once all these dimensions had been checked, checked again, and just for good
measure a third time it was time to drill some holes.
The position of both the display, NANO, power input plug, and a large hole for access
to the NANO when all was assembled, had been checked out. The holes for all of them were
drilled and cut out as were the holes for the bolts used to raise the box to the correct height
and for the wires to and from the laser receivers.
Assembly was quite straight forward, the laser cluster was glued into place using
epoxy and the NANO with just 2 spacers and 4 screws.
As a junction board I glued a small piece of stripboard to the bottom of the box.
The display window was cut and the hole for the switch determining direction of a shutter
was drilled.
Attention now turned to the laser sensors:
Part of the original alignment jig was used to determine the hole placement and then
glued to the inside of the receiver box to make a shallow tunnel to shield the receivers from
the ambient light, which I had found could be a bit of a problem. Using the original jig (Fig 1)
holes were drilled into a piece of perspex about 2mm thick and the receivers were epoxied
into place within the 6mm holes. They are a tight fit. When the epoxy was cured I wired all
the positive leads together using fine wire and the same with the grounds. This reduces the
wiring count by 4 which as you can see from this image, helps. The perspex was then epoxied
into place.
The cover for the receivers was then drilled for the LED’s and the switch and fully
assembled.
Time for testing: the triangle of LED’s on the cover of the sensor box, were initially
going to indicate alignment of the camera when the shutter was on ‘Bulb’. The transistors
visible at the back of the box were there to help drive the LED’s but unfortunately the laser
sensors could not drive then sufficiently, and as their circuit board was again glued down, it
was too late to modify the circuitry, so the LED’s are now just an aiming point.
and two of the three signals from the sensors transferred to the NANO via the two switches.
Testing involved:- Contax 139
Pentax Spotmatic
Pentax SF7
The Contax, having been recently serviced was spot on with the exception of the
1/1000th which was about ½ stop out.
Both the Pentax’s were good up to 1/500 with the two fastest more than a stop out.
Yes IT WORKS!
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