Hope to save a D5500

[ic-racer]

Looks good!

 

[Joel_L]

I just picked up some D5500 stuff from ebay, I should now have enough spares to last me to the end of my darkroom days. One being version 3 of the controller and another CLS head that needs the motor rubber.

 

[mshchem]

I just picked up some D5500 stuff from ebay, I should now have enough spares to last me to the end of my darkroom days. One being version 3 of the controller and another CLS head that needs the motor rubber.

I saw this stuff, I'm glad to hear you found it. Looked to be reasonably priced. The prices on Ebay have mushroomed for anything darkroom. There's a guy who is parting out old Jobo tanks, crazy

 

[Leppy]

I have a couple of D5500 and lots of spare neg carriers etc but I can't put 35mm neg strips in any.There seems to be a 35mm filmstrip carrier 423-592 but I can't find any pics of it anywhere. The quick change neg holder system only allows for about 2 35mm negs to be fitted. Has anyone a pic? Thanks

 

[ic-racer]

They made a 35mm mask and I have a few, even one I cut out for full frame, however, for the last 20 years I have been using the 4x5 glass carriers for 35mm (and everything else too)
I cut my 35mm negatives to strips of six frames, and these are no trouble fitting in the negative carrier.

 

[Leppy]

Yes I have all the masks (and spares) from 110 to 5x4 but these fit into the removable neg cassette which in turn fits into the cassette holder between the lamphouse and the bellows. Because this swivels through 180 degrees it limits the length of the neg strip to the width of the neg cassette. I can't imagine how a strip of 6 negs can fit.Mine are all glassless though, is that a different system altogether?

 

[Leppy]

I think I may have sussed it. By turning the 35mm neg mask though 90 deg ,the strip of negs runs from front to back and there's a slot in the front and rear of the cassette to allow the strip to pass through. But I would like to see what 423-952 looks like. Thanks

 

[Joel_L]

Some of my D5500 bits came in, looks a lot better with a front cover.

Unfortunately the color probe I got does not seem to work well. Best I can get is about 130CC on Magenta and Yellow. I put my probe back in and it works much better. I emailed KHB to see what they have to say.

Even though my elevation knobs work, they were pretty chewed up where they engage things. I now have a new set to put on.

 

[Joel_L]

@ic-racer

I got my CLS controller III, it seems to need some help. It looks slightly different than the I and II. Do you have a schematic for the III? What I have only covers the I and II

 

[Joel_L]

I figured out that the III controller is very similar to the II controller. Biggest difference seems to be battery backed memory instead of NVM. I figured out that it was the DAC that went bad. Replaced it and my III controller is now working.

 

[ic-racer]

You had a spare chip laying around ?
It’s been 20 years since I had to repair a controller, but I do recall scouring the internet looking for the chip back then. Been so long I think it was the driver for the display.

Thing is, I had water damage to another controller a year ago but have not looked into it thinking none of the chips would be available.

 

[Joel_L]

I took it out of the version I controller I have. I got my parts head in and am in the process of rebuilding it now. It's taking a bit more work, some things, like new foam seals, I should do the the existing one also. It of coarse has the same rubber wheel for the filters issue. This time I just cut some surgical tubing. The power switch is broken, so I will replace that.

I used the mixing box and color probe from this one in the currently working head. It's the best working of all the parts I have.

I really wish folks would not tape things back together. I spent more time cleaning tape residue off than it took me to take the thing apart.

 

[ic-racer]

It has been so long since I redid all the foam light seals I forgot about it until I read your post. I didn’t own a digital camera to document it back then.
I may have an original working power switch in my spare parts box.

 

[Joel_L]

I ordered a switch that will probably be more robust in the long run. Should have it today. I would say, unless you are leaking light, don't worry about the seals. They tend to crumble it you touch them.

 

[mshchem]

This is so cool. I have gone through this, not as deep into the computer stuff. I have accumulated a mess of Beseler 4x5 stuff I have 5 backups for every piece. I love saving stuff from the bin!

 

[Joel_L]

I got the parts head back together. It mostly works, I say mostly because the fan is dead. I will probably get one to put in but no real rush. I bought this for the rev III controller ( I actually like my rev II better ) and what ever spare bits I might need. I'm now calling it " saved a D5500 ". I took one of my mixing boxes and added foam to it to make it 8x8cm. Even for 35mm it is much brighter.

 

[Joel_L]

Well, not having a working fan bugged me even though it's just going to sit in a cabinet. I put a new fan in today, so now I have piece of mind knowing that it ready to go if needed.

 

[ic-racer]

You did a fantastic job in a short period of time! It took quite a few years for me to restore 3 complete working head and controller setups. This is my spare setup ready to go. However, it has been about 8 years since i have had to do a head swap during a printing session.

 

[mshchem]

Better safe than sorry. I have "parts heads" that are now saved

 

[ic-racer]

Always wanted an RC sailboat.

 

[Joel_L]

Always wanted an RC sailboat.

I got that in 1976, it's a Vortex Soling. Family had a full sized one at the time.

 

[Mikey Antonakakis]

Hopefully no one minds me bumping this old thread, but at the very least wanted to say thanks for the great info here (and on some older threads)! I just picked up two D5500s (two each of chassis, color head, and control board). Most/all of the buttons on the keypads seem functional, but waiting for a couple bulbs to do further testing. Has usual fine elevation control wheel issue, so if there’s any change of sharing a CAD model that would be great! Otherwise I can draw one up myself when I get in there. I was thinking of 3D printing a mold and casting them in polyurethane.

 

[ic-racer]

Almost 20 years since I re-did my rubber wheels. At the time I just used a couple things I got at the hardware store. Both enlargers still working fine with the 0-rings after all these years.

 

[Mikey Antonakakis]

Thanks!
I got a bulb and was able to test both heads and controllers, both have basic functionality and both heads have issues with at least one of the filter motor/wheels. Going to try restoring the wheels with rubber/plastic tubing to start with.
Also, one of the controllers shows a lowercase “d” next to one of the color value readouts? I’m guessing an error code of some kind?

 

[Joel_L]

I'll look for my cad models and post them if you want to go that route