to #69, #70
I have mentioned the "effective density".
But it is the "gross density". So I measured the silver density and the veil density together.
To know the "net density" you have to subtract the veil density (0.15...0.25) from the gross density.
Best regards
Klaus
The last development of a FP-4 I made on 14.07.2021.
The sensitometry clip had the following gross densities:
Zone VII.5: 0.35
Zone V: 1.12
Zone II,5: 3,46
D.max: 4.10
I hope that this information is sufficient.
I contacted them and got a reply today. They are going to shut down the whole company. It's not just about the Scala service after all.
I think it used a re-exposure reversal step and never went to chemical reversal.
Thus you would need a fairly specifically designed processor - likely not a million miles off how the K-14 machines worked, or Agfa's old reversal process (which didn't go to chemical reversal either as far as I know) will have required.
This is also a good way to roughly estimate the maximum density:
Hold the black slide directly in front of your eye and then look into a light source (desk lamp) for about 30...60 seconds.
At a density of about 3.00 you can just see the light source but not the surrounding area.
My process is optimized for slide projection on a screen in the best possible quality.
To achieve a good black (zone 0) on the screen under good projection conditions, you need a slide with a maximum density oft about 4.00.
And Klaus, an extremely high Dmax is worthless if the slides are yellowing over the time......you know what I mean
Henning,
I'm not Klaus, but in my experiments with black & white reversal processing so far, I have always fixed the film after the re-development step; I take it this is what you're referring to?
Tom
an extremely high Dmax is worthless if the slides are yellowing over the time
Dye fading?
And that is also one of the reasons why a Dmax of 3 on a transparency is enough for having real blacks on the screen, viewed at normal viewing distances. You are not looking at the projected picture on the screen from just some centimeters, but from normally 3-5 meters distance in a standard living room.
I tried to replicate (and translate) the B&W reversal process method I used in my Colenta.
As the original document I made dated from 2005, I couldn't open it with my more recent computer/software...
So, this spreadsheet is made based on my hand written notes, but my hand writing wasn't the 'cleanest', and still isn't.
I don't know the mentioned book, but I suppose that it is a bit older.
Probably the statements apply primarily to color slides. Black and white slides have somewhat different requirements.
This is very useful, thanks! I will give it a try in the near future. The first development time of 17 minutes mentioned in the spreadsheet is for Delta 100?
Edit: @Philippe-Georges can I request you to also share your process in the resources section of this site so that anyone who's looking for a good B&W reversal process in the future can search for the information more easily? Thanks in advance.
Interestingly, "Basic Photographic Materials and Processes" says this on DMax of reversal films:
"Although these films are capable of achieving densities above 3.0, the shadows are best reproduced at densities 2.7 and less depending on the contrast of the negative."
This process is good for any kind of B&W film emulsion, but for my personal use which was scanning for offset printing, I found the results on Delta 100 at box speed to be perfect.
You may not forget that I needed a trustworthy, easy to find and decently prized film that matched the same speed of the Polaroid type 54 (and by rare extension the type 55) and type Polaroid 664 Polapan Pro 100 – Peel Apart proof film as I used these in my studio.
For some assignments, B&W – and colour reversal (mostly Fuji Provia) were required simultaneously, so a good 100 ASA workflow was primordial...
And yes, you may put this spread sheet in the resource section.
Raghu, do yourself a favour and don't worry so much about numbers and Dmax values. It is not worth it.
Stop wasting time on "theory" and "number games" and just start making BW transparencies. Try different films and processes, and see, what you like best.
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