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Jeremy Mudd

Jeremy Mudd

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Carillon Park, Dayton Ohio 8.29.2020 - This is the last shot on the roll of Ektar I shot Saturday morning in my Holga 120 Pan. The 5 prior shots on the roll had a lot of drama in the clouds, but then as the early morning storm rolled in, the sky went this dramatic shade of purple just before I captured this image. Then the incoming storm overtook us and we had to run for the car. INFO: Holga 120 Pan on Kodak Ektar film @ "sunny" setting and bulb mode, 30 seconds. Developed in UniColor C41 chems and scanned on an Epson V600.

Jeremy

50294794831_a737fda954_k.jpg
 

Daire Quinlan

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It's been a while since I put a roll through, Jeremy that's a good one, definitely playing to the 6x12 strengths there.

This is Lough Bray House, a rather exclusive place beside a lake in the Wicklow mountains, viewed from the grandiosely entitled 'Eagles Crag' above the lake. No, I don't think there are eagles, though there are a bunch of placenames around the area, both in Irish and English, that suggest that there were at one point.

 

Daire Quinlan

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Ah, there was this one as well, I'd forgotten it was in bulb mode, it has a nice ... geometry ... to it regardless



The next shot on the roll, hilariously, is a distorted and out of focus shot of my own mug, staring into the camera lens as I hit the shutter to confirm it _was_ in bulb mode :smile:
 
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Jeremy Mudd

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Nice! I really like the Lough Bray House image. That plays well to the sharper center section.

Here one from last weekend - End of the Blue Hour. Holga 120 Pan on Kodak Ektar film.

Jeremy

50317446146_9c21a181c2_k (1).jpg
 
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Jeremy Mudd

Jeremy Mudd

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Friendly reminder:

We are in the last two days of HOLGA WEEK 2020.

https://holgaweek.com/

If you haven't been out to shoot this week you still have today and tomorrow. :smile:

Jeremy
 
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Jeremy Mudd

Jeremy Mudd

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I hope everyone got out and shot for Holga Week 2020!

I shot, developed, and scanned 5 rolls and am trying to decide on which 3 make the "cut" for me to submit. Here's one that didn't make the cut, but I still like it. I think I didn't put this one in the final running because a few confidants of mine thought it was "too polished" for a Holga shot.

Dayton, Ohio in the morning blue hour. Holga 120 Pan on Kodak Ektar film @ "sunny" setting, bulb mode, 120 second exposure.

Jeremy

50449444863_714b0d23ad_k (1).jpg
 

Donald Qualls

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My Holga, a NOS 120S, came with only the 645 frame mask (I've since acquired a 6x6 mask). Camera is currently out of service while I perform surgery to install the second aperture and a B shutter stop. I experimented with daylight flash for fill while waiting for a tire rotation.

0009.jpg


Holga 120S, 645 mask, XP2 Super, Flexicolor
 

Joseph Bell

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hi Jeremy, these are tremendous! I am thinking about buying a 120 Pan but I am wondering how one goes about long exposures? It doesn't look like it has a receptor for a threaded cable release, unless I'm wrong, and I hope I am! ?


I hope everyone got out and shot for Holga Week 2020!

I shot, developed, and scanned 5 rolls and am trying to decide on which 3 make the "cut" for me to submit. Here's one that didn't make the cut, but I still like it. I think I didn't put this one in the final running because a few confidants of mine thought it was "too polished" for a Holga shot.

Dayton, Ohio in the morning blue hour. Holga 120 Pan on Kodak Ektar film @ "sunny" setting, bulb mode, 120 second exposure.

Jeremy

View attachment 257498
 

Donald Qualls

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That looks like a standard Holga shutter on the Holga 120 Pan, so the Holgamods cable release adapter ought to work with it -- another $28 plus shipping to use a standard cable release.
 
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Jeremy Mudd

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hi Jeremy, these are tremendous! I am thinking about buying a 120 Pan but I am wondering how one goes about long exposures? It doesn't look like it has a receptor for a threaded cable release, unless I'm wrong, and I hope I am! ?

Hi! Thanks! Sorry I haven't had a chance to answer yet - busy weekend! There are two options here - the factory Holga cable release socket or the Holgamods cable release socket.

On my 120 Pan I use the factory Holga add-on cable release socket that slips over the lens. They are super difficult to find anymore and are fairly fragile - prone to breaking at the botton where the plastic is thinnest near the B/N switch. The two Holga ones that I own have both broken and required me to mend with superglue. The only reason I use the factory Holga part and not the nicer, more robust 3D-rpinted piece from Holgamods.com is the fact that since the 120 Pan is fairly rare, I didn't want to glue the necessary extension piece on the shutter lever for the Holgamods piece to work - ie I didn't want to molest the Holga Pan.

That said if you glue the piece onto the shutter lever the Holgamods piece is the better of the two, IMHO.

Hope that helps!

Jeremy
 
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Jeremy Mudd

Jeremy Mudd

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50487965261_d92ef1fcd1_k.jpg
If you haven't submitted yet, don't forget that today is the LAST DAY for submitting images for the Holgaweek image contest. https://holgaweek.com/

Another one I shot for the contest that didn't make my "cut" for the final three.

Holga 120N on Ilford FP4+. 240 second exposure.

Jeremy
 

Joseph Bell

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Thanks much, Jeremy, that is truly helpful!


Hi! Thanks! Sorry I haven't had a chance to answer yet - busy weekend! There are two options here - the factory Holga cable release socket or the Holgamods cable release socket.

On my 120 Pan I use the factory Holga add-on cable release socket that slips over the lens. They are super difficult to find anymore and are fairly fragile - prone to breaking at the botton where the plastic is thinnest near the B/N switch. The two Holga ones that I own have both broken and required me to mend with superglue. The only reason I use the factory Holga part and not the nicer, more robust 3D-rpinted piece from Holgamods.com is the fact that since the 120 Pan is fairly rare, I didn't want to glue the necessary extension piece on the shutter lever for the Holgamods piece to work - ie I didn't want to molest the Holga Pan.

That said if you glue the piece onto the shutter lever the Holgamods piece is the better of the two, IMHO.

Hope that helps!

Jeremy
 

gijsbert

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2020-10-31-acros003 copy.jpg

I have not had any light leaks with my Holga 120N until this latest roll. A bit strange since I have not noticed any leaks before. It seems an odd shape in the upper-right - above the white triangle/corner there is a bit of negative on the edge that seems okay??? Since the image is mirrored does that mean that leak is around the lower right of the camera?

Still a fun camera! Some really nice image in this thread, I'd love to do some long exposure but I always have trouble pressing the buy button on the shutter cable thingamajig - given that it is more expensive than the camera itself!
 

Donald Qualls

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View attachment 259206 Since the image is mirrored does that mean that leak is around the lower right of the camera?

The film isn't mirrored in the camera, it's inverted 180 degrees, so that upper-left light strike area would be in the lower right of the film gate. I suspect you had the sun near the frame and picked up flare from inside the camera -- especially likely if you just removed the 6x4.5 mask to get 6x6 images, as opposed to replacing the 16 frame mask with a 12 frame one. The mask includes a light baffle that ought to trap most of the stray light from outside frame.
 

radiant

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I still cannot comprehend how Holga can be so sharp (referring to previous posts by Jeremy & Daire).
 

Donald Qualls

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I still cannot comprehend how Holga can be so sharp (referring to previous posts by Jeremy & Daire).

Some models (with G in the model name/number) have glass lenses, even with a single meniscus that's usually an improvement over injection molded plastic.
 

ProgramPlus

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The shot of the building above by Jeremy.... I assume the long exposure was to get the cloud effect, so is it taken with ND filter or taken in the dark to not get overexposed at 4 minutes?
 
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Jeremy Mudd

Jeremy Mudd

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I have not had any light leaks with my Holga 120N until this latest roll. A bit strange since I have not noticed any leaks before. It seems an odd shape in the upper-right - above the white triangle/corner there is a bit of negative on the edge that seems okay??? Since the image is mirrored does that mean that leak is around the lower right of the camera?

That would be the bottom right of the camera - was the 6x6 mask in? I've seen similar-looking leaks when the mask wasn't in - ran across that with a used Holga that I bought that the person had cut the baffle area out of the mask for some reason. An un-molested mask fixed it.


Still a fun camera! Some really nice image in this thread, I'd love to do some long exposure but I always have trouble pressing the buy button on the shutter cable thingamajig - given that it is more expensive than the camera itself!

I've read that some folks have rigged a paperclip and rubber band set-up, with one side connected to the tripod mount, to hold the shutter down. Someone else also mentioned using a piece of cardboard as a wedge.

Jeremy
 
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Jeremy Mudd

Jeremy Mudd

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The shot of the building above by Jeremy.... I assume the long exposure was to get the cloud effect, so is it taken with ND filter or taken in the dark to not get overexposed at 4 minutes?

Yes, it was taken with an ND filter If I recall correctly it was an 8-stop. I have a 58mm filter mount that slips over the lens, and an array of 58mm filters to fit it. The long exposure was to get the movement in the clouds.

Jeremy
 
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Jeremy Mudd

Jeremy Mudd

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I still cannot comprehend how Holga can be so sharp (referring to previous posts by Jeremy & Daire).

There may be Holgas out there that have lenses better than others and I just got lucky with all of the ones that I own.

Although, honestly, I think a lot of the un-sharp Holga images that I see may be more due to user error or user intent. :smile:

Jeremy
 
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