Presoaking film and development time

Sirius Glass

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Never pre-soaked and never will. A complete waste of time.

They maybe a waste of time for you but not others including me. However in the future I will feel free to waste as much of your time as I can.
 

M Carter

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Just be wary of short pre soaks. Myself and others have found that (at least with Delta 100 in 4x5) a short pre-soak is disastrous. When the film dries, a weird crack pattern emerges on the base side, but it does render the negs useless. It took me a fair amount of testing to nail this down to a 1-minute pre soak causing this issue. I did find a post or two about it on other forums as well.
 

alanrockwood

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There's an additional effect to consider, and this comes from an analogy to paper chromatography.

First I need to explain what happens in paper chromatography. Here's how it works. a small amount of sample is applied to a strip of paper in the form of a spot. The spot is applied near one end of the paper but not quite at the end. That same end is then dipped into and held in contact with a solvent. (The solvent could be water for example.) The solvent (assume it's water) creeps up the paper by capillary action. As the water rises it carries the sample with it. Typically the sample does not travel at the same rate as the solvent front, but it does move up the paper. (Different components of the sample travel at different rates.) This is not happening by diffusion but rather is a more active form of transport. Diffusion does occur, but diffusion is the what is responsible for the the movement of the spot. (Diffusion produces spreading of the spot, not movement of the center of mass of the spot.)

There are some differences between paper chromatography and the application of developer to film, but there must be an important similarity as well, which is that as the water penetrates into the gelatin it will carry developer along with it. As with paper chromatography this is not a diffusion effect but is a more active form of transport. This active form of transport does not occur if the gelatin is first hydrated before the developing solution is applied. In that case (the pre-soak case) transport of developer into the film relies on diffusion, not the more active form of transport that I am discussing here.

The bottom line is that, although there are several effects taking place, some of them perhaps competing with the effect I described here, the effect I am describing will tend to slow down development if the film is pre-soaked.

This is probably a transient effect. Once the system approaches something closer to a steady state then this delaying effect does not effect further development. This probably means that the effect would best be considered in terms of a more or less fixed delay i.e. a simple addition of a certain amount of time to the development time rather than a proportional adjustment is probably more accurate.

I'm not actually sure if people usually recommend a fixed-time adjustment or a proportional adjustment, but at least some have recommended that a pre-soak compensates for rotary vs. conventional film processing, which sounds a lot like a proportional adjustment to me. However, I think a fix-time adjustment is probably more appropriate.

If a fixed time adjustment is most appropriate then what time would that be? I will hazard a guess, a rather wild guess. Suppose that normal development averages about 5 minutes. Suppose that one assumes that 15% greater development gives a reasonable adjustment for a 5 minute development time if one uses pre-soak. (This 15% is just a wild guess.) That would mean adding 45 seconds to the development time. If my hypothesis is more or less right then adding 45 seconds would apply regardless of the total development time. One probably just round that off to one minute.

So, what if one were to convert a conventional processing time without presoak to a rotary process with a presoak. The following scheme might be a reasonable first guess on how to do the conversion. Take the conventional processing time. Add one minute. Then multiply by 0.85. I'll bet that would get you fairly close most of the time.

Note: After I wrote this I saw the latest post by M Carter which recommended adding one minute to the development time if one uses pre-soak. That sort of confirms my wild guess. I think M Carter is also on the money when he or she says that a short pre-soak is not a good idea. I think you want to either reach more or less full hydration of the film (i.e. a reasonably long pre-soak) or not at all. Otherwise the process becomes less controllable.

Correction: where I wrote "Diffusion does occur, but diffusion is the what is responsible for the the movement of the spot." it should be "Diffusion does occur, but diffusion is not what is responsible for the the movement of the spot."
 
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Sirius Glass

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I am familiar with liquid and gas chromatography, but I have not seen it referred to in photography only in use as a tool determining carbon hydrogen chains of broken thyroixine when determining the structures of T3 and T4.
 

Scott J.

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That's really interesting. I was getting the exact same thing -- a crack-like texture on the non-emulsion side -- in 4x5 and 8x10 sheets of Delta 100 developed in Pyrocat-HD. It's suggested that development in Pyrocat-HD should be preceded by a water pre-soak (1-2 minutes), which is what I had been doing. When I eliminated the pre-soak, the cracks went away, too. The problem, however, is that not doing the pre-soak often (~50% of the time, in my case) results in mottled, uneven development along the edges of the sheets. I eventually gave up on Pyrocat-HD for those reasons and went to XT-3. It's unfortunate, because Pyrocat gives really beautiful negatives with fine grain and high sharpness. That said, XT-3 is a close second.
 

Sirius Glass

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Was the presoak water the same temperature as the developer, rinse water, fixer and wash water?
 

pentaxuser

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What conclusion did you come to about the short but unspecified soak time that resulted in a weird crack pattern on the base side when it is dry?

Was this the case with all films and all developers in your testing?

Thanks

pentaxuser
 

ags2mikon

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Directly from Ilford "A pre-rinse is not recommended as it can lead to uneven processing." Do they really test for this? I bet they do. I'm sure that it does not happen every time you pre-rinse. It could be that a surfactant is incorporated into the emulsion and a pre-rinse removes it. When I use my jobo processor I run it in the water bath with out pre-rinse or developer for 2-3 minutes to temper it, then pour in the developer. The mass of the film itself is negligible and the reels nearly so. The tank is the largest hunk of mass to warm up.
 

Vaughn

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And it could be part marketing/customer service. Short pre-soaks are not safe (as per others above) and not needed for average use...so to reduce complaints from inpatient and sloppy workers, it is better not to recommend it. But Ilford stops short of saying it is actuall harmful, since pre-soaking can be useful in the hands of the experienced worker.
 

Sirius Glass

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In the past, Kodak has said that presoaks were useful. So did PE.
 

Scott J.

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Was the presoak water the same temperature as the developer, rinse water, fixer and wash water?

It was. I always temper my chemistry, whether with a Cinestill TCS-1000 (the sous vide-style immersion heater) or a Jobo CPE-2.

What conclusion did you come to about the short but unspecified soak time that resulted in a weird crack pattern on the base side when it is dry?

Was this the case with all films and all developers in your testing?

In my case, eliminating the 2-minute pre-soak was the thing that eliminated the crack-like pattern on the base of Delta 100 sheets when developed in Pyrcoat-HD. The fact that others have observed a similar phenomenon seems to lend credence to the idea that there really is something going during the presoak with some film-developer combinations that results in this anomaly.

I'll note here that my inspection of the crack-like patterns seemed to indicate that the pattern matched up with the texture and shape of the film holder and/or tank in which the sheets were processed. In particular, I noticed this in both the SP-445 and the SP-810 tanks from Stearman Press. At first, I thought these patterns were scratches, but they were geometrically uniform (not random). With regard to the anomaly in 4x5 sheets, the patterns matched up well with the shape and size of the vertical "slits" in the SP-445 holder (this is the Revision 4 style holder). In 8x10 sheets, the pattern matched the shape and size of the worm-like indentations in the bottom of the SP-810 tank.

My hypothesis is that the water is penetrating into the various layers of the film (including the film base) at different rates, and in places where the film is in contact with a solid surface (e.g., the SP-445 film holder) the differential rate of water penetration results in a different rate of expansion of the various layers of the film. The film has to accommodate the expansion due to swelling somehow, so in areas of slower water penetration, you get localized tension "cracks," for lack of a better term. It's hard to tell if these are really "cracks" (i.e., horizontal separation) or "ledges" (i.e., vertical separation). Regardless, they're definitely visible in areas where there's silver or stain density.

It's quite possible that you'll only see this anomaly if you're developing in a tank where the film holder or the tank, itself, makes direct contact with the film and inhibits the even flow and penetration of the pre-soak water. If you're developing roll film on reels, I'd be willing to bet you won't see it.
 

cliveh

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If you ingress emulsion with water, it has to depart to accept developer and it may not do that evenly.
 

john_s

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This puzzles me. I have always thought of the back of the film as being inert but it seems not so. Is it the case that you've found that a short water pre soak causes this problem with one rather dilute, high pH developer, Pyrocat-HD, but not with a more concentrated, lower pH one? Or do you not do a presoak with the XT-3?
 

Scott J.

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It is puzzling! In general, I don't pre-soak. The only reason I discovered the aforementioned anomaly is because I began experimenting with Pyrocat-HD (using Delta 100). Sandy King has strongly suggested on his website that a pre-soak should be done with Pyrocat-HD. I've never seen the anomaly with another developer or film, but I've also never tested for it. It might be worth looking into (e.g., 4x5 Delta 100, pre-soak in water, develop in XT-3, using the SP-445).
 

MattKing

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Anything that applies pressure to either side of the film can affect how emulsions, gelatin and liquids (such as pre-soak or developer) interact at or near the pressure point.
 

john_s

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This is from the Ilford pdf:

100 DELTA Professional sheet film is coated on
0.180mm/7-mil polyester base with an antihalation
backing which clears during
development.

Maybe the antihalation layer is supposed to first come into contact with an alkaline developer, and the ribs touching the back of the film in a SP-445 or SP-810 film holder cause it to be disrupted if a (short) water prerinse is used. I wonder if a long prerinse would be different?
 

Vaughn

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If you ingress emulsion with water, it has to depart to accept developer and it may not do that evenly.

It is a process of diffusion, not the physical exchange of moving the water out then moving the dev in.
This is the same process that constantly replaces exhausted developer with fresh developer,
And we seem to get even development with this process.
Thus I think it is more likely the developer will be accepted evenly.

PS -- I have had nasty examples of the backing (antihalation layer) of FP4+ leaving permanent marks on the back of the film when developing in the 3005 Expert Drum. No pre-rince or possibly too short of one...it has been a long time. I was using a hardening fix. Marks stopped happening when I removed the hardener. My working theory is that the incompletly removed antihalation layer (being in contact with the drum) reacted with the hardener and something became permanent.

Which leads me to ask, after a quick search...how is the antihalation layer applied -- in a thin layer of gelatin on the film back? Would make sense -- that would help to counter the sheet film curling towards the emulsion side. And possibly explain the action of the hardener.
 
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john_s

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I note that HP5+ in roll film size, the only film I use since the demise of Neopan400, also has an antihalation coating on the back which is supposed to dissipate during processing. Of course, the spiral reels don't touch the rear of the film except at the very edge.
 

Helge

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And just like that, the world stopped prewashing.

Never going to do it again.
15 - 20% corresponds to what I usually add to development.
Blamed it on various factors, but it’s quite obvious in hindsight.
Just never thought millions of people could be this wrong.
 

cullah

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I presoak techpan in the 120 size. When I don't presoak I get a mottled effect. The rest of the films I use don't need presoaking.
 

DREW WILEY

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Pardon me if I commented on this earler. Dunno. But every single type roll and sheet film I've ever used, I presoaked, including Delta 100. It actually helps the developer spread more quickly and evenly. And in the case of sheet film with tray development, I can't imagine shuffling those sheets in developer efficiently without prior conditioning in water. But the whole point is to standardize the length of the presoak and its own agitation cycle, and that's it's neither too short nor too long. I generally use two minutes. It's been a long long time since I've seen an actual technical article about this in relation to different times and different films; but I captured the gist of it in my own practice. And mind you, I'm not talking about just one little experiment, but about decades of experience with many types of black and white film, in multiple formats all the way from 35mm to 8x10.
 

Sirius Glass

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I have been presoaking film since I learned about it on APUG and I have never had a problem with it. Furthermore I have seen that the development is better and more consistent with presoaking.
 

john_s

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I continue to presoak. Testing development times has led to negatives with optimum density and contrast, and most importantly, very even and consistent.
 
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