Rolleiflex SL66 Photobooks and Guides?

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john_s

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Thornton was a better journalist than developer formulator or sensitometrist. Treat with caution.

What is it about the metaphysics of the SL66 that appeal to you? You seem to be looking for a camera solution to a photographic question that you haven't really formulated.

Every medium format camera is a compromise in my opinion. I like the SL66 because it's easy to use for close focusing, the tilt is useful to me, and it's easy to use various odd lenses because they don't need a focusing mechanism or shutter. For example, the Rodenstock Imagon. If strobe is important, it's probably not for you! It's also a bit of a handful if you are small and weak, like me.
 
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I developed the film today. It looks like I loaded the roll correctly despite some fiddling before the first two frames. I'll know more about the kit's condition once I scan everything this weekend.



First GAS in 2025. :-(

Apologies! While the camera feels nice in my hands the cost, rarity of the accessories, and limited repair options worry me. You might enjoy the feeling of wanting one more than having one and fretting about it.

I made a dark slide from a sheet of thin brass from a model railway shop.

You would need an original to copy, I suppose. Someone could trace one on paper and email to you. I could if you wanted.

All cuts have to be smooth to avoid damaging the light trap.

Let me know if you recall the shop! How much did you end up spending to make a few? I have one dark slide already, thanks.



Thanks! I'll take a look.

Every medium format camera is a compromise in my opinion. I like the SL66 because it's easy to use for close focusing, the tilt is useful to me, and it's easy to use various odd lenses because they don't need a focusing mechanism or shutter. For example, the Rodenstock Imagon. If strobe is important, it's probably not for you! It's also a bit of a handful if you are small and weak, like me.

So true! So far my Yashica TLR has felt like the "best" compromise. Let's see if this can be a little better.
 
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baachitraka

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Apologies! While the camera feels nice in my hands the cost, rarity of the accessories, and limited repair options worry me. You might enjoy the feeling of wanting one more than having one and fretting about it.
Nothing to worry. I happy with all the existing ones.
 
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I developed the film today. It looks like I loaded the roll correctly despite some fiddling before the first two frames. I'll know more about the kit's condition once I scan everything this weekend.

{image link removed on OP's request}
In case you're curious here's a quick smartphone scan under AR glass and in sleeves. You can't judge the sharpness due to that:

{dead image link removed on OP's request}

I looked at the negatives on my light table with a loupe. I am disappointed by the results because although many of the shots are in focus, the Zeiss' resolution is underwhelming. My Yashica 635's Yashikor lens looks better at F5.6!...Could this be why this particular camera was for sale?

I may need to do a few tests/some reading to rule out my technique or a body/lens problem. By the way, I did measure the subject distance in addition to using my eyes to focus. I also didn't use any tilt.

I'll make a new thread for follow-ups on the sharpness/focus and leave this one for resources/photobooks/guides.
 
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Lachlan Young

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although many of the shots are in focus, the Zeiss' resolution is underwhelming. My Yashica 635's Yashikor lens looks better at F5.6!

Before doubting the camera, at 5.6, the Zeiss should drastically and obviously outperform the 635's triplet (I don't think they got the Yashicamat's tessar) especially in terms of sharpness. What shutter speeds were you using; were you using a tripod; if you were using a tripod, how solid is it? Medium format SLR's with focal plane shutters deliver considerable amounts of potential camera shake, compared to a direct vision leaf shutter TLR. Eliminate all possible user error before blaming the camera.
 
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Before doubting the camera, at 5.6, the Zeiss should drastically and obviously outperform the 635's triplet (I don't think they got the Yashicamat's tessar) especially in terms of sharpness. What shutter speeds were you using; were you using a tripod; if you were using a tripod, how solid is it? Medium format SLR's with focal plane shutters deliver considerable amounts of potential camera shake, compared to a direct vision leaf shutter TLR. Eliminate all possible user error before blaming the camera.

Agreed, I often work from the assumption that I have caused the problem.

I used an okay tripod that I've achieved sharp images with on larger formats at slow speeds (1 minute or more). I used a shutter release cable but I did not use mirror lockup. I went through almost all the speeds. Everything from 1/125 to 4 seconds.

I read online that the Planar HFT "made by Rollei" lenses should be comparable to Hasselblad T* optics.

First GAS in 2025. :-(

Nothing to worry. I happy with all the existing ones.
I misunderstood your initial comment. Now I realize you were mourning my sin!
 

Kodachromeguy

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Who is the premier repair technician for SL66 cameras in:
1. USA
2. Europe
I've admired the SL66 for a long time but never acted on it because it was so rare in the US market.
 

abruzzi

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Who is the premier repair technician for SL66 cameras in:
1. USA
2. Europe
I've admired the SL66 for a long time but never acted on it because it was so rare in the US market.

Looks like probably Key Camera in Colorado:


for most of the repair people it says they no longer repair the SL66 due to lack of parts. It doesn't say thay yet about Key Camera.
 

Lachlan Young

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an okay tripod that I've achieved sharp images with on larger formats at slow speeds

A light weight LF camera with a leaf shutter is less demanding of a tripod/ tripod head than many classic medium format SLRs - especially those with focal plane shutters.
 

Pieter12

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Looks like probably Key Camera in Colorado:


for most of the repair people it says they no longer repair the SL66 due to lack of parts. It doesn't say thay yet about Key Camera.

Dave at Key Camera is a great guy. He used to work for Bell & Howell when they were the importer for Rolleiflex cameras in the US. He is a one-man shop and can get pretty busy, as most technicians today.
 

john_s

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....................... The tilt is what interested me.


................

Although the tilt is often called lens tilt, it is actually a rear tilt in view camera terminology. The advantage is that the lenses don't need wider coverage than normal, whereas a front ("lens") tilt does. Look at any basic guide to view camera movements. I find the SL66 tilt quite useful for landscape (near-far composition) and thinking of trying it for portraiture soon.
 
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Although the tilt is often called lens tilt, it is actually a rear tilt in view camera terminology. The advantage is that the lenses don't need wider coverage than normal, whereas a front ("lens") tilt does. Look at any basic guide to view camera movements. I find the SL66 tilt quite useful for landscape (near-far composition) and thinking of trying it for portraiture soon.
Thanks, John. Have you posted your SL66 landscapes anywhere? Also, was Lachlan right about the sheet metal?
 

john_s

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Thanks, John. Have you posted your SL66 landscapes anywhere? Also, was Lachlan right about the sheet metal?

Lachlan is correct: K&S products are popular in model making shops and 0.25mm is the thickness of the SL66 dark slide according to my vernier caliper. I used brass because it's easy to cut, even with kitchen scissors. It is important that edges are made smooth and have no sharp edges. No photos of mine posted.
 
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john_s

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Someone asked about adjusting the SL66 magazine film start feeler. I have posted to the SL66 User Group here at APUG, the first post there for 10 years!
 
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Lachlan is correct: K&S products are popular in model making shops and 0.25mm is the thickness of the SL66 dark slide according to my vernier caliper. I used brass because it's easy to cut, even with kitchen scissors. It is important that edges are made smooth and have no sharp edges. No photos of mine posted.
Thank you

Someone asked about adjusting the SL66 magazine film start feeler. I have posted to the SL66 User Group here at APUG, the first post there for 10 years!
I'll give it a look!

I might have an issue with my magazine. Is it normal for the SL66E 6x6 magazine to "move" in a slight up and down/side to side motion when you advance the crank on the body? It's not easily visible. I can feel it when I touch the magazine while advancing.

Also, I see some light scratches on my negatives. They're in a similar position at the start of each roll. My best guess is that it could have something to do with the feelers and the way they determine the start of the film. The feelers in my magazine are working.

I developed a roll from my TLR in both batches as a check. Scratch free.

A light weight LF camera with a leaf shutter is less demanding of a tripod/ tripod head than many classic medium format SLRs - especially those with focal plane shutters.

I used my heavy duty tripod and developed more negatives yesterday. I did not see an improvement in the sharpness. Maybe I had unrealistic expectations based on things I've read? The lens is acceptable. I think my Yashikor is just as good or a little better*.

*However, I haven't checked the lens flare on the HFT yet. That's one of the reasons I wanted to try it out.

I've read stories of lenses with swapped elements, improper adjustments to focusing screens, etc. I think it could be unwise to keep this camera without sending it to a professional repair place for a quick check. However, that could be costly. Key Camera no longer services them. The German companies I've emailed haven't been responsive. I doubt I can get feedback before my return period ends.

Looks like probably Key Camera in Colorado:


for most of the repair people it says they no longer repair the SL66 due to lack of parts. It doesn't say thay yet about Key Camera.

Key Camera doesn't service the SL66E.
 
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Lachlan Young

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Maybe I had unrealistic expectations based on things I've read

I don't think so - classic Zeiss designs do have quite strong optical signatures - i.e. very high contrast transfer response at low frequencies, which makes them seem quite visibly 'sharp' to the viewer at normal distances. I know what an 80mm Planar should deliver, and it should visibly outperform a much older Yashica triplet, especially at wider apertures.

If you are basing your assessment on an Epson flatbed scan, you are effectively assessing the scanner optics rather than the camera.
 
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