I wish I could get the screws out of my Nikkor Ai-S 135/2.8 lens so I could renew the helicoid grease. Even with JIS screwdrivers, solvents, heat, cold and repeated effort I haven't been able to get the back plate off the lens. It is a mint lens that I got for next to nothing and even though I can use it as is, I would really like for it to have smooth focusing instead of stiff.Disassembled the helicoids and aperture rings of a number of old Nikon Ai-S and Ai lenses to clean the interiors, renew the helicoid grease, and lubricate the aperture rings. Went very smoothly (apart from misplacing a couple of screws for a short time) with the right JIS screwdrivers and a variety of helicoid greases of different viscosities.
No glass element or other optical module tear-downs as the glass is fine with all, but they sure feel nice with smooth, even and quiet mechanisms.
I wish I could get the screws out of my Nikkor Ai-S 135/2.8 lens so I could renew the helicoid grease. Even with JIS screwdrivers, solvents, heat, cold and repeated effort I haven't been able to get the back plate off the lens. It is a mint lens that I got for next to nothing and even though I can use it as is, I would really like for it to have smooth focusing instead of stiff.
I just may try that vice-grip trick and some acetone and see if that works.I had trouble getting enough leverage with my JIS driver to get the lens mount screws loose too. I wasn’t able to get enough hand/finger torque on the driver while also pressing down to prevent the head stripping, so I grabbed a pair of small vice-grips, clamped the handle of the driver in the jaws of the grips, and while pushing the bit of the screwdriver into the screw very firmly to prevent the bit from riding up, twisting the screwdriver with a little extra torque that the vice grips enabled did the trick almost immediately. I was very VERY careful while doing this to prevent the bit of the screwdriver from riding up where it could/would strip the head and/or slip and do damage to the lens, but was fortunate each time that they unseated with that extra little bit of torque that this applies to the screws.
Did you try starting fluid?gotta fix the lawnmower again, replaced the carb and seals but it don't wanna start
John,gotta fix the lawnmower again, replaced the carb and seals but it don't wanna start
John,
You just can't use caffenol or Ansco 130 in the lawn mower.
You need gasoline!
Did you try starting fluid?
Check the magneto? I had to replace a one last year... on a mower my father got in the late 80s.
If you replaced the carb you probably know how to test for spark, but if not...
- You can get a tester
or
- Have someone pull the rope while you hold the detached plug wire (using an insulated screwdriver) near the block to see if it sparks
or
- You can hold the detached plug wire with one hand and grab the block with the other; it's fun... once. Better yet, get a friend to do the holding while you pull the rope.
Made a new curtain for a Thornton-Pickard Roller Blind Shutter;
Speeds not calibrated yet, but it works
Youtube movie of running shutter
Baby steps, here: first work on my just-adopted 2A Ansco Buster Brown Folding, made the shutter work more reliably by using very light touches of cleaner fluid, with the housing cover off.
Tense moments at reassembly, as I did not quite see where the speed selection ring should engage. Steeping back a bit, I gave it a few minutes, tried light wiggles, and it eventually fell in place. Whew!
There seem to be a few very fine chips on shutter leaves - metal wear on this 1915 shutter?
That would be for another day, as I can access that by just removing the front lens element, and perhaps use a light vac action?
Made a new curtain for a Thornton-Pickard Roller Blind Shutter;
Speeds not calibrated yet, but it works
Youtube movie of running shutter
Nice work, I have a couple waiting on new curtains, what material did you use?
So, you just sit them in the sun to begin with? What's your technique? I have a few Westons I'd like to rejuvenate if possible.Encouraged by my partial success rejuvenating the old Hickok selenium meter I dove into last week, I dug a Weston Master II out of the potentially-dead meter bin and was able to get it responding to light. I'll now let it sit with the Hickok and drink up room light for a few weeks before I move them to non-direct window light for a few more. I've heard this process can revive selenium cells if they're not totally shot. I don't have my hopes up but it costs me nothing to try.
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