You definitely need a fresh quality battery. F3 lcd displays can dim with age FYI
What did you fix today? (part 2)
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You definitely need a fresh quality battery. F3 lcd displays can dim with age FYI
I changed the batteries and everything is working so far. The advance lever is advancing and the shutter is firing. The LCD display is pretty clear. The lens may be broken since I can't get the focus ring to move but at least this can easily be replaced.
A lot of the old manual focus lenses will get stiff, or even stuck from old dried out grease. Lenses are plentiful. Sounds like you got a winner.
A lot of the old manual focus lenses will get stiff, or even stuck from old dried out grease. Lenses are plentiful. Sounds like you got a winner.
I happened to have another AF Lens that mounted perfectly on the F3 body. I'm back in business with this camera. 2023 is ending beautifully.
I happened to have another AF Lens that mounted perfectly on the F3 body. I'm back in business with this camera. 2023 is ending beautifully.
That's awesome!
My wife says I lack holiday spirit.
A jammed Rolleiflex SL35M . The winding level can't run in complete cycle and it it jammed .
So I opened the shutter box cover and found this
Obviously it is not part of the shutter mechanism, likely from lens?
Just WHY it was there???
So I opened the shutter box cover and found this
Obviously it is not part of the shutter mechanism, likely from lens?
Just WHY it was there???
Today I opened, cleansed and regreased a fungal Nikon Reflex Nikkor 500/8 C with loose focus:
Now it works fine:
Now it works fine:
Very interesting! Where was the fungus?
At the brim of the main mirror and on the surface of the small reflecting mirror.
How did you remove the fungus?
Glass cleaner and Sensor Fluid (methyl alcohol).
Ace made all of Kodak's (Rochester NY) hard rubber tanks. If you go back to late 19th early 20th century Ace make all manner of piping, valves etc for handling corrosive liquids.
I'm still looking for the 10" hard rubber stirrer sticks for the set. But they're impossible to find these days.
I 'fixed' a couple of protective tabs to turn this Chinese surplus SKS-rifle sling into a camera strap with a couple of key rings.
There is a whole thread on this very subject that goes into many possible solutions:
How are you dealing with stuck screws?
Stuck screws that cannot be removed from their threads are one of the biggest annoyances when repairing photographic equipment. Because you either damage the screw heads when trying to unscrew with force or you have to cancel the repair project. Screwhead damaged by force 🤬 How can you tame...
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Good luck!
There is a whole thread on this very subject that goes into many possible solutions:
How are you dealing with stuck screws?
Stuck screws that cannot be removed from their threads are one of the biggest annoyances when repairing photographic equipment. Because you either damage the screw heads when trying to unscrew with force or you have to cancel the repair project. Screwhead damaged by force 🤬 How can you tame...
Good luck!
I'll bet someone makes tiny little impact drivers. Miracle devices, just a single tap, can be enough on a larger scale. Brass screw may make it impossible.
The main problem with JIS and Philips screws is that yo have to give pressure to the screwdriver so that the bit won't slip out of the cross what will fix the screw in addition.
TORX and INBUS are much easier to handle.
TORX and INBUS are much easier to handle.
I have screw extractors like this, but if the damaged screw head profile doesn't provide support for the crown-shaped attachments, it won't work.
If the head of the screw is already damaged I see no sense in keeping the screw undestroyed,
so I behead the screw with a counterclockwise drill.
so I behead the screw with a counterclockwise drill.
I wish to know why??
My Gitzo studio shutter. I have used it for a couple of studio sessions, because it has flash sync, and fits some of my larger barrel lenses.
When I went to use it last month it failed, no flash sync, as it wasn't fully opening. A simple fix, some careful lubrication.
I really want to use it with the lens in this photo this year. The lens is a Dallmyer 2B Quick Acting Portrait Petzval, f4 9", its serial number shows it was made 160 years ago, and it's listed in the Dallmeyer stock book.
I've just tested the shutter and now the flash sync works
Ian
When I went to use it last month it failed, no flash sync, as it wasn't fully opening. A simple fix, some careful lubrication.
I really want to use it with the lens in this photo this year. The lens is a Dallmyer 2B Quick Acting Portrait Petzval, f4 9", its serial number shows it was made 160 years ago, and it's listed in the Dallmeyer stock book.
I've just tested the shutter and now the flash sync works
Ian
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Update on the Minolta-16 MG-S (fixed)
The camera developed a weird problem as I was testing the shutter. Every second actuation of the cocking mechanism, the cocking sliding plate wouldn't move far enough to cock the shutter. It was missing that 1/64 of an inch to complete the task. I thought I'd misaligned something but it turned out that one of the cogs of the cocking mechanism has one side of its inner race thinner than the other. According to the service manual, this cog is integrated into the main chassis and cannot be serviced... So, I came up with a solution to remove the slack, I made a tiny brass sleeve to go over the post of the problematic side. It works perfectly, and the beauty of it is that it doesn't need to be fixed in place because the top cover sits so close to the cog that the sleeve cannot escape. I just applied a tiny amount of molybdenum grease to avoid unnecessary friction.
10cents coin for scale.
The camera developed a weird problem as I was testing the shutter. Every second actuation of the cocking mechanism, the cocking sliding plate wouldn't move far enough to cock the shutter. It was missing that 1/64 of an inch to complete the task. I thought I'd misaligned something but it turned out that one of the cogs of the cocking mechanism has one side of its inner race thinner than the other. According to the service manual, this cog is integrated into the main chassis and cannot be serviced... So, I came up with a solution to remove the slack, I made a tiny brass sleeve to go over the post of the problematic side. It works perfectly, and the beauty of it is that it doesn't need to be fixed in place because the top cover sits so close to the cog that the sleeve cannot escape. I just applied a tiny amount of molybdenum grease to avoid unnecessary friction.
10cents coin for scale.
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Update here with my Rolleiflex SL35M,
Able to source the gears from another faulty SL35ME, replaced the broken wheel and not it is working !
Point to note about SL 35M /ME:
The advance lever gears have to be set right before putting it back.
Open the gears inside the advance lever, take out the 3- wheels plate, place it on the wheel disc . Loosen 3 screws of the 3-wheel plate and so as to make it fit into the wheel disc. After that, re tighten them.
Then reinstall the advance lever layer by layer
Note that there is a variation of the SL35M/ME of the advance lever. Later models have a large flat top while the earlier models have a cone shape with a nut inside. The nut is better to loosen by a standard 5mm socket.
Both versions need to turn clockwise to losen the nut and the cone/flat top unit.
Able to source the gears from another faulty SL35ME, replaced the broken wheel and not it is working !
Point to note about SL 35M /ME:
The advance lever gears have to be set right before putting it back.
Open the gears inside the advance lever, take out the 3- wheels plate, place it on the wheel disc . Loosen 3 screws of the 3-wheel plate and so as to make it fit into the wheel disc. After that, re tighten them.
Then reinstall the advance lever layer by layer
Note that there is a variation of the SL35M/ME of the advance lever. Later models have a large flat top while the earlier models have a cone shape with a nut inside. The nut is better to loosen by a standard 5mm socket.
Both versions need to turn clockwise to losen the nut and the cone/flat top unit.
Update on the Minolta-16 MG-S (fixed)
The camera developed a weird problem as I was testing the shutter. Every second actuation of the cocking mechanism, the cocking sliding plate wouldn't move far enough to cock the shutter. It was missing that 1/64 of an inch to complete the task. I thought I'd misaligned something but it turned out that one of the cogs of the cocking mechanism has one side of its inner race thinner than the other. According to the service manual, this cog is integrated into the main chassis and cannot be serviced... So, I came up with a solution to remove the slack, I made a tiny brass sleeve to go over the post of the problematic side. It works perfectly, and the beauty of it is that it doesn't need to be fixed in place because the top cover sits so close to the cog that the sleeve cannot escape. I just applied a tiny amount of molybdenum grease to avoid unnecessary friction.
View attachment 359043 View attachment 359042
That's a great solution. Elegant even
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