Impressive, you still have space to work here and you can see individual electronic components and their connections.
However, I would be afraid of the mains voltage present
What did you fix today? (part 2)
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Impressive, you still have space to work here and you can see individual electronic components and their connections.
However, I would be afraid of the mains voltage present
Impressive, you still have space to work here and you can see individual electronic components and their connections.
However, I would be afraid of the mains voltage present
I have good eye sight and great restraint for not putting my hands where there not supposed to be. I didn't power the amp up till after it was cleaned. I think that would give the caps plenty of time to discharge.
It's a nice solid well built amp I thought might be interesting for someone.
I've been building and repairing amps, record players, tape players, pre amps, tube amps, projectors etc. as a hobby long before I started photography.
It was just a basic clean up, I'll make sure to put up a warning if I show anything real scary.
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There is a whole thread on this very subject that goes into many possible solutions:
How are you dealing with stuck screws?
Stuck screws that cannot be removed from their threads are one of the biggest annoyances when repairing photographic equipment. Because you either damage the screw heads when trying to unscrew with force or you have to cancel the repair project. Screwhead damaged by force 🤬 How can you tame...www.photrio.com
Good luck!
Thank you. I went ahead and bang a slot screwdriver.
In 1972 my great uncle, Charlie, left me a 1940s Omega DII with color head and all accessories that came with the enlarger when he bought it. It was my workhorse in the darkroom (formerly known as a kitchen) of my 3-room apartment in Brooklyn. Over the years I've expanded on the accessories with the 35mm Rapid Shift Carrier, Glass 4x5, 3 1/4"x4 1/4", a bunch of other carriers and lenses of varied focal lengths.
In recent years, the old gal has been disconnected from the baseboard and leaning against a wall in my attic since the demon digital overtook my attention. BUT I've always missed that near spiritual air of working alone in silence (save for the gurgling water from the Kodak tray siphon.)
So last month I began building a darkroom in one of the rooms of the downstairs apartment in my mother-daughter residence, and I decided to give my old enlarger some new life with a thorough cleaning and removed the locking screw that secures the head to the frame rails. Uh-oh. The friction block then came loose inside, between and the enlarger head frame and the u-channel of the rail. And there was no way of nudging the friction block back into position since the spring that maintains tension on the block to keep it from floating around in the channel had come loose, too.
After weeks of trying to locate repair info on old DIIs to no avail, this morning I laid the rail and head assembly on a table and figured out how to get things back together by disconnecting the spring-loaded counter-weight straps, removing the bottom mount that rotates on the cone of the baseboard and sliding the rails up and thereby fished out the block got the spring tensioner reattached and put everything back together again.
I then got my Dymo Labelmaker out and made a label with an arrow pointing at the set screw..."NEVER REMOVE THIS SCREW."
In recent years, the old gal has been disconnected from the baseboard and leaning against a wall in my attic since the demon digital overtook my attention. BUT I've always missed that near spiritual air of working alone in silence (save for the gurgling water from the Kodak tray siphon.)
So last month I began building a darkroom in one of the rooms of the downstairs apartment in my mother-daughter residence, and I decided to give my old enlarger some new life with a thorough cleaning and removed the locking screw that secures the head to the frame rails. Uh-oh. The friction block then came loose inside, between and the enlarger head frame and the u-channel of the rail. And there was no way of nudging the friction block back into position since the spring that maintains tension on the block to keep it from floating around in the channel had come loose, too.
After weeks of trying to locate repair info on old DIIs to no avail, this morning I laid the rail and head assembly on a table and figured out how to get things back together by disconnecting the spring-loaded counter-weight straps, removing the bottom mount that rotates on the cone of the baseboard and sliding the rails up and thereby fished out the block got the spring tensioner reattached and put everything back together again.
I then got my Dymo Labelmaker out and made a label with an arrow pointing at the set screw..."NEVER REMOVE THIS SCREW."
Beautified a DIY battery box to power the motor-drives that attach to my military B&H Filmo/Eyemo cameras.
I've never come across an original of one of these cases, so I made one from a LP-carrying case and a Hubble Twist-Lock connector.
It houses a couple of gel batteries.
Ordered a reproduction nomenclature tag for it.
Nice. I have never seen one myself, and that's coming from someone who attended a University that their film equipment collection consisted mainly of WWII surplus B&H 16mm cameras. There were many of the detachable motors, but we tended to just use the spring wind motor.
Now I have seen many Auricon and Maurer "suitcase" battery packs for field sound recording; what a nightmare they were to use.
I’ve got an Eastman Kodak 2D 5x7 that’s in moderately rough shape to restore. The first order of business was to order new bellows, which I now have in hand. Lol, I actually got the bellows 2 years age truth be told. Sometimes it take me awhile as I have way to many projects.
The Next thing was to figure out the best way to refinish the brass hardware. I didn’t want to lose the satin finish that came on the hardware ware originally. So I bought a small bench top media blast cabinet and some extra fine glass bead. Got everything set up and tested it out last night and I’m very pleased with the results. This is one of the springs for the film back with a clear coat of satin lacquer. I think the original finish on the brass might have had a little tint in it and I may play around with that, but in the mean time, I’m pleased with the results.
Roger
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The Next thing was to figure out the best way to refinish the brass hardware. I didn’t want to lose the satin finish that came on the hardware ware originally. So I bought a small bench top media blast cabinet and some extra fine glass bead. Got everything set up and tested it out last night and I’m very pleased with the results. This is one of the springs for the film back with a clear coat of satin lacquer. I think the original finish on the brass might have had a little tint in it and I may play around with that, but in the mean time, I’m pleased with the results.
Roger
Wow, the box looks great. Did you build the box or is the a box you repurposed? Either way it look great.
Well done!
Thanks! I’m still investigating clear finishes for the brass. Just sent an email to Ceracote inquiring about which finish they would recommend. The spray can lacquer is easy but probably not that durable. The Ceracote finishes look promising. If anyone has used Ceracote it would be great to here your experiences.
Roger
So the ground glass for the above mentioned camera had very unevenly cut corners. I recut them and cleanup the edges of the ground glass. I also reassembled the ground glass back with the refinished hardware. I have a bottle of Cerakote MC-2200 Multipurpose Clear on its way to test on the brass. I’m hoping it will be more durable than the spray lacquer. The next hurdle is to figure out what to do with the wood finish on this camera. The previous owner did a hack job of trying to restore the camera and has partially stripped and/or sand the old finish. He also had the ground glass frame on backwards, focus must have been way off. I will probably end up completely disassembling the camera and refinishing all the wood. I’d really like to bring the camera back to dark red mahogany finish that it came with. There’s also a some wood repair that needs to be done on the front rail. Basically I’m testing the waters and sneaking up on a full restoration.
Roger
Roger
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Looks great. I love these old cameras. I have taken a clean first, with wood, see what is what before removing old finishes. Looks like you're fixing prior missteps. Good work.
Thanks!
I've got 3 'small' gel batteries in it and it's already pretty hefty to lug around.
This is one shown in the 1950s Directory of Signal Corps Equipment,
The WW2 one is similar but they have a split-riveted hard fibre body, like the Graflex cases of the time. A friend in the US has one of those in his collection.
The box itself is a record carry case. It's dimensions are pretty close to the thing I'm trying to recreate. I only painted it and added the Twist-Pull socket.
There are still a few things I can change or add to improve it, like the top handle, the D-rings for the carrying strap and the corner reinforcements
Also, impressive work on that Eastman Kodak 2D, Roger.
Bought a Pentax 6x7 very recently with a metered prism (not working) but came without the shutter speed adapter.
Not wanting to spend 50+ dollars for one I came up with a replacement.
I used the top of a Fuji 35mm film container. I cut off the bottom, slightly sanded it for flatness and it slides over the shutter dial nice and snug. Works perfectly.
Not wanting to spend 50+ dollars for one I came up with a replacement.
I used the top of a Fuji 35mm film container. I cut off the bottom, slightly sanded it for flatness and it slides over the shutter dial nice and snug. Works perfectly.
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Was at a camera store today and there was a guy selling all his camera stuff. Had some very nice things, Hasselblad, Mamiya 6 and some others. He also had a EF 16-35mm f2.8 v1 but they didn't want it because the front barrel was loose and the decorating ring on the front was falling off. I offered the guy $30 for it and he said sure. Got home removed the front rubber focus ring, rotated to access the screws and tightened. Works perfect. I know it's not the sharpest but I don't have a wide angle zoom so this is perfect for me.
I just finished this 1952 Singer button-style foot pedal which was in a sad state. It doesn't look like it but there are a couple hours of job in the picture below heh.
Is this for a sewing machine or darkroom enlarger or timer?
Good work!
Interesting!
Could you tell a bit more about the Calumet which is unknown to me. Is this a current product?
Another Fujica ST801 cleaned today. The Fujica ST 801 is a fun M42 camera to own. The LED exposure meter is a real advance tech back then .
As said previously, one has to make sure no static in working it out .
Above: After top cover removed . Under the hot shoe has a screw to attach the flash wire (black) to the hot shoe. Nothing real tricky there.
Most of the foams are dead as it aged , and so just remove them and put a new one
Above : The Left side has a transparent plastic ring on the rewind side. It is for insulation , don loose.
The top cover also has transparent plastic film for insulation
You can see the main IC chip is on the left side of the prism, and thats why using static-proof tools are recommended.
As for the prism, lift up the spring on the right side using the spring hook. Be careful with the chipset next to it
This spring usually has been glued on the another end.
But I have met few that doesn't have this chip set and the spring didn't glued on .
After that, just left up the rubber-like cover slightly and slowly pull out the prim for cleaning .
The focusing screen is just below it.
The viewing lens and the metering sensor are also there . Cleaning them if necessary.
And here is a the aperture ring disassembly:
Removed 4 screws of the M42 mounting ring , simply lift it up and there is nothing special about .
As said previously, one has to make sure no static in working it out .
Above: After top cover removed . Under the hot shoe has a screw to attach the flash wire (black) to the hot shoe. Nothing real tricky there.
Most of the foams are dead as it aged , and so just remove them and put a new one
Above : The Left side has a transparent plastic ring on the rewind side. It is for insulation , don loose.
The top cover also has transparent plastic film for insulation
You can see the main IC chip is on the left side of the prism, and thats why using static-proof tools are recommended.
As for the prism, lift up the spring on the right side using the spring hook. Be careful with the chipset next to it
This spring usually has been glued on the another end.
But I have met few that doesn't have this chip set and the spring didn't glued on .
After that, just left up the rubber-like cover slightly and slowly pull out the prim for cleaning .
The focusing screen is just below it.
The viewing lens and the metering sensor are also there . Cleaning them if necessary.
And here is a the aperture ring disassembly:
Removed 4 screws of the M42 mounting ring , simply lift it up and there is nothing special about .
A gunky Singer 221 currently on my bench. It’s slowly coming along.
Thanks.
Krud Kutter - The Must for Rust
A wonderful product to get rid of rust, particularly with tiny bits that are difficult to brush.
The Calumet Shutter Speed Tester has been out of production for at least 25 years. Here is a link to the tester.
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