What did you fix today? (part 2)
-
A
- Thread starter Sean
- Start date
Recent Classifieds
-
Want to Buy Looking for a Wollensak 6" (159mm) f12.5 Extreme W.A.
- Started by lecarp
-
For Sale Nikon 200-400mm f/4 AF-S Nikkor ED Lens
- Started by Barlow
-
For Sale Manfrotto 438 Leveling Base
- Started by djdister
-
For Sale Manfrotto 410 (3275) Junior Geared Head
- Started by djdister
Forum statistics
Turns out the old Hubbell rocker switch on the power cable was the culprit. After some cleaning I have a working Control Unit.
I still need to create the bracket that holds the copy lights to the base of the enlarger.
Last edited:
Wow that is truly impressive and museum grade! Excellent work!
18 months ago I started out with just the empty wooden case and canvas cover. I had a few camera related bits already.
A friend helped recreating some of the ephemera like film boxes and developer tubes boxes as Printable PDFs.
There's a small list of other things that I still need to dig up, like a 12" Seneca "Eyesaver" ruler.
Shipping cost from the US is slowing me down a bit though
A friend helped recreating some of the ephemera like film boxes and developer tubes boxes as Printable PDFs.
There's a small list of other things that I still need to dig up, like a 12" Seneca "Eyesaver" ruler.
Shipping cost from the US is slowing me down a bit though
Last edited:
I've started working on this Minolta MG-S that I purchased on eBay for a few bucks. The shutter was more on the miss side but, after working it a wee bit, it’s getting better. A mercury battery leak forced me to drill out 2 of the screws that held the back plate. I should be able to remove what's left and find suitable replacements (I hope) in my canister of tiny screws. The viewfinder had a lot of debris inside but it cleaned nicely. The light meter is inoperative due to verdigris on the wires, I hope I'll be able to fix it without having to replace the wires.
Edit:
A moments ago, I noticed that one of the leaf blades wasn't seated on the E.E guide post. This explains why the aperture looked funny.
Edit:
A moments ago, I noticed that one of the leaf blades wasn't seated on the E.E guide post. This explains why the aperture looked funny.
Last edited:
Update on the Minolta 16 MG-S
I spotted this suspicious spring while inspecting the mechanism. According to the service manual, it is the Electric Eye Lever Spring ( part #4013-04 ). I have yet to confirm where the end of this spring goes but I’m fairly sure it’s behind that post in the back. I think it is what’s causing the shutter’s erratic behaviour.
And here we have a corroded & unsoldered wire that should be connected to the electric eye. I think I’ll replace the whole wire instead of trying to clean the ends.
I spotted this suspicious spring while inspecting the mechanism. According to the service manual, it is the Electric Eye Lever Spring ( part #4013-04 ). I have yet to confirm where the end of this spring goes but I’m fairly sure it’s behind that post in the back. I think it is what’s causing the shutter’s erratic behaviour.
And here we have a corroded & unsoldered wire that should be connected to the electric eye. I think I’ll replace the whole wire instead of trying to clean the ends.
Wasn't today, but I "repaired" my Canon 300/2.8 L.
The hood had a bump that made it very hard to unscrew, to the point that I unscrewed the front neutral element twice...
I used a small handy clamp that can be reversed to push instead of pressing, so that the bump is now small enough to stop annoying me.
The hood had a bump that made it very hard to unscrew, to the point that I unscrewed the front neutral element twice...
I used a small handy clamp that can be reversed to push instead of pressing, so that the bump is now small enough to stop annoying me.
New light seals for my Kowa Six and a Nikon F3. Had to make my own for the Kowa, but used a kit from Jon Goodman for the F3. Have another set for a Nikkormat EL on the way from Jon.
Trying to get all my "shooters" up to snuff before Jon stops making those kits...
Trying to get all my "shooters" up to snuff before Jon stops making those kits...
"Fixing" a clutter in my daylight room. Things got shifted to this room when I was remodeling my darkroom and organizing my storeroom, now I'm working on my day room so I'm ready for a new computer for scanners etc.
Turns out the old Hubbell rocker switch on the power cable was the culprit. After some cleaning I have a working Control Unit.
I still need to create the bracket that holds the copy lights to the base of the enlarger.
I love this stuff, just love it! Are the trays Ace Hard Rubber trays?
Update on the Minolta 16 MG-S
It appears that I was correct in assuming that the end of this spring needed to be seated behind the post in the back. The service manual doesn't show where it's supposed to be so I just followed commonsense and Bingo now the shutter operates normally. The way it works is that the EE lever is shaped like a stair with tiny steps and, as you cock the shutter, it is pulled away from the light meter needle so that the latter can move freely. When the release button is pressed, the EE lever springs back and stops right where the needle is (Ex: f/5.6). It must have been dropped at some point and it messed up the mechanism.
It appears that I was correct in assuming that the end of this spring needed to be seated behind the post in the back. The service manual doesn't show where it's supposed to be so I just followed commonsense and Bingo now the shutter operates normally. The way it works is that the EE lever is shaped like a stair with tiny steps and, as you cock the shutter, it is pulled away from the light meter needle so that the latter can move freely. When the release button is pressed, the EE lever springs back and stops right where the needle is (Ex: f/5.6). It must have been dropped at some point and it messed up the mechanism.
My Focomat 1C has been flickering ever since I got it (about 2 years ago). I thought it was that the plug at the top of the tube wasn't fitting in well, but then I noticed a bit of visible arcing in the plug itself (very nice). I opened that up (because it is held together with screws) and tightened the connections. That didn't stop the flickering.
When I got the enlarger, I checked the power cord to see if it was in good shape - since I have a Valoy II that needed its cord replaced immediately (bare wires everywhere). I thought the wires in the Ic were good. The cord between the light and the tube is perfect.
I wanted to access the outlet at the top of the tube since I thought the connections in there may also be loose and thus cause the flickering. To get that outlet to come out, you need to release the clip on the cord at the underside of the baseboard and push the cord into the tube. I did that. The result was:
The insulation turned to powder when I moved the cord.
So I had to rewire the entire enlarger - expect from the light to the top of the tube. Even the power cord, which I had thought was ok, was actually full of checks and nearly shorting out where it was attached to the enlarger. Took over an hour, since every wire end in the cord I bought needed tinning before putting it in the connectors in the enlarger.
For your enjoyment, here is the wiring diagram Leitz was kind enough to include inside the shield on the underside of the enlarger:
When I got the enlarger, I checked the power cord to see if it was in good shape - since I have a Valoy II that needed its cord replaced immediately (bare wires everywhere). I thought the wires in the Ic were good. The cord between the light and the tube is perfect.
I wanted to access the outlet at the top of the tube since I thought the connections in there may also be loose and thus cause the flickering. To get that outlet to come out, you need to release the clip on the cord at the underside of the baseboard and push the cord into the tube. I did that. The result was:
The insulation turned to powder when I moved the cord.
So I had to rewire the entire enlarger - expect from the light to the top of the tube. Even the power cord, which I had thought was ok, was actually full of checks and nearly shorting out where it was attached to the enlarger. Took over an hour, since every wire end in the cord I bought needed tinning before putting it in the connectors in the enlarger.
For your enjoyment, here is the wiring diagram Leitz was kind enough to include inside the shield on the underside of the enlarger:
Wow. Lucky you didn't have a fire!
Well, the great thing about an enlarger is the fact that you don't ever have it on unless you're right in front of it. But it's certainly something to consider whenever you plug in something that old. I imagine every one of those should be rewired, at this point.
Simple way to do it would be replace the cord to the light bulb to plug directly into the timer. But I like that it plugs into the top of the tube.
After two years of being camera less, I received a Nikon F3. This one belonged to my husband's grandfather who passed away over a decade ago. Other than a few scratches on the body from regular wear and tear, the body seems to be in good shape. I used to shoot on the Nikon F3 for three years before the past two years so I have been comparing the functionality to my past experience.
A few things I noticed:
1. There is no battery display - I think I need to change the batteries (no corrosion - good sign?).
2. The advance lever is very hard to use (maybe from being idle for years) and the camera shutter is not firing. I did try the backup lever and this advanced my film.
3. Everything else is moving just fine.
I am hoping a simple battery change will bring it back to life...
A few things I noticed:
1. There is no battery display - I think I need to change the batteries (no corrosion - good sign?).
2. The advance lever is very hard to use (maybe from being idle for years) and the camera shutter is not firing. I did try the backup lever and this advanced my film.
3. Everything else is moving just fine.
I am hoping a simple battery change will bring it back to life...
The only thing I tried to fix today was my attitude. It’s still broken.
As you go along with this camera, start your own threads with any questions or problems. Lots of knowledge here, and putting it on its own thread will get people seeing it.
Welcome!
Update on the Minolta 16 MG-S
I've replaced the corroded wire on the electric eye, this has to be the smallest solder spot I've ever done. I haven't soldered the other end to the battery contact yet but the meter tested positive when I hooked the wires to a power source. Also, while I was playing with the cocking mechanism, I noticed that the shutter actuation sliding plate (the manual calls it a "Diaphragm Plate Set" ) was dragging and would sometime stop short of actuating the shutter. A quick look at the reassembly procedure informed me that one area of this part needed to be greased for a smooth operation. After applying a tiny bit of molybdenum grease Molykote G-N, it operates smoothly.
Note: The wire I used comes from a Pentax SFN. I kept the wires in case I'd need to fix a light meter and here we are.
I've replaced the corroded wire on the electric eye, this has to be the smallest solder spot I've ever done. I haven't soldered the other end to the battery contact yet but the meter tested positive when I hooked the wires to a power source. Also, while I was playing with the cocking mechanism, I noticed that the shutter actuation sliding plate (the manual calls it a "Diaphragm Plate Set" ) was dragging and would sometime stop short of actuating the shutter. A quick look at the reassembly procedure informed me that one area of this part needed to be greased for a smooth operation. After applying a tiny bit of molybdenum grease Molykote G-N, it operates smoothly.
Note: The wire I used comes from a Pentax SFN. I kept the wires in case I'd need to fix a light meter and here we are.
Last edited:
Brian, what happened to your attitude?
Thank you! I finally learnt how to create a thread. All updates will go there: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...with-a-comeback-to-analog-photography.203893/
Due to multiple simultaneous life challenges, my attitude is just not level. Improvement on the horizon, though.
Maybe I can understand it a little from my own life.
Don't give up and definitely have a better new year!
One is an Ace, the other two are Yankee trays. Originally they should all be Ace, though.
Shipping + VAT was twice as expensive as the trays themselves......
Ace made all of Kodak's (Rochester NY) hard rubber tanks. If you go back to late 19th early 20th century Ace make all manner of piping, valves etc for handling corrosive liquids.
| Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here. |
PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:  |